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You can run the stock Cummins mechanical fan on a conversion. You just have to slide the engine & transmission back a few inches. Lots of people have done it.
The down side is after you slide the engine back, you鈥檝e got to get your driveshaft shortened which is another expense and the reason some choose to leave the engine in the stock location and run electric fans.
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That's a typical "shortcut conversion"

About 20% of the real work is done for that to be called a complete vehicle.

If it's a single or extended cab or has crank windows or vinyl I would say it's worth $6000 tops for the fact you can drive it home. If it's a crewcab with leather I would put the value close to $10k if the body and interior is premium shape. If average or below no more than $7500.

If that engine was installed in the correct position with a mechanical fan, AC, cruise control and all gauges worked flawlessly, The wiring harness was done to an OEM or better level of quality, the air filter wasn't sucking hot air from under the hood, Exhaust was done to a high standard, the engine was detailed and leak free, the front suspension was tight, nice tires and wheels, cosmetics 8/10 or better then that would be a $25,000 to $40,000 vehicle depending on what venue and how it was sold.

Problem is that truck needs $15,000 in labor and an unknown number of parts to get it there.
 

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Looking a the pics again, the wiring is actually pretty bad. It can be fixed, but its really not good now.

And I'd bet a bunch of money the AC isn't working. And if the lines have been left open like that for very long, all of the AC components will need to be replaced if you ever want it to work. Seems like a few shortcuts may have been taken and the job rushed a bit. All fixable, but it just isn't a complete project, there's still work to be done.

926213
 
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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Little update, I finally got a video of the truck and the frame/suspension/engine looked and sound really good, normal for it's age, surface rust and nothing more, u-joints, steering axle, driveshaft etc looked worn but not failing, normal for an older farm truck, sorry I can't post it, we did it via facetime. I have a lot of the same worries you all do with the wiring, it's a must re-do if I purchase this truck, my engineering brain will not let that slide. The radiator situation is definitely something I could fab up in no time and something I did not notice until you all pointed it out, thank you!!! Wiring was the 1st red flag, however, a very manageable one.

I then discovered this truck's conversion was not done by the person I'm buying the vehicle from, he certainly knew a lot about it and was able to answer any of my very particular questions, maybe was even involved in it, or done fummins swaps before, however, this red flag is something that I'm not sure I can manage.

Fast forward a couple of days and I get a lovely call from the bank (securing a mortgage for a vacation/investment property) and he tells me I have to pay off one my current car loans to qualify for the money that I want and there goes my fun cash stash. I was quite pissed at first for reasons I'm not gonna get into, banks. However, this means that I cannot jump into this project without my fun cash available anymore, I was totally prepared to have to do some fixing and I am thankful for all of the great insight I received.

I still need a horse hauler and while this is a speed bump, it frees me up to go get credit and maybe go with a much newer cummins engine, thinking about a 5th gen 2500/3500 here, after I close on this property, which was not an option before and why I was looking at cheaper project.

Hopefully I'm gonna have something tasty to report in a few months. I still really like the reliability and simplicity of the 12v so I still might do a conversion but into a much newer ford, I'm sure there's mainly dodge guys in here, no beef haha, PSD 6.7 seem to blow up as much as they 6.0s and 6.4s did so this might not be difficult.


If its a crewcab and I earned USD instead of canuck pesos... I'd buy it.

The 'heavy lifting' is done. And he chose good/reliable stuff like the p-pump 12v and ZF6.

IMHO, the fan situation is due to keeping the OE rad and stuff. There's other ways to package it. Maybe he couldn't find the shorty fan hub. I'd get the batteries out of there too.
u2slow, man this is exactly what attracted me to this build, ZF6, p-pump etc, however, the more I looked into it, the more I realized I was probably going to have to pull the engine out to cross all the T's and dot all the I's which I was fine with but for $6k-$8K not $10k. Life has a way of working out, we will never know if this would've been a mistake or a great find.

edit: adding a few more photos
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Looking a the pics again, the wiring is actually pretty bad. It can be fixed, but its really not good now.

And I'd bet a bunch of money the AC isn't working. And if the lines have been left open like that for very long, all of the AC components will need to be replaced if you ever want it to work. Seems like a few shortcuts may have been taken and the job rushed a bit. All fixable, but it just isn't a complete project, there's still work to be done.

View attachment 926213
What an eye my man, this is exactly the type of thing I was looking for when it came here, I would've never spotted that in a picture in a million years, probably not even in person. Rock crawlers don't have AC haha. I never asked about AC, however, your theory is probably right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
That's a typical "shortcut conversion"

About 20% of the real work is done for that to be called a complete vehicle.

If it's a single or extended cab or has crank windows or vinyl I would say it's worth $6000 tops for the fact you can drive it home. If it's a crewcab with leather I would put the value close to $10k if the body and interior is premium shape. If average or below no more than $7500.

If that engine was installed in the correct position with a mechanical fan, AC, cruise control and all gauges worked flawlessly, The wiring harness was done to an OEM or better level of quality, the air filter wasn't sucking hot air from under the hood, Exhaust was done to a high standard, the engine was detailed and leak free, the front suspension was tight, nice tires and wheels, cosmetics 8/10 or better then that would be a $25,000 to $40,000 vehicle depending on what venue and how it was sold.

Problem is that truck needs $15,000 in labor and an unknown number of parts to get it there.
Great insight man, I'm new to conversions and dealing with consumer vehicles in general in this extensive fashion, your post helps me a ton. I agree on the $7kish valuation for this vehicle, semi-premium trim with a good interior and dome damage to the exterior. I really did not care about the exterior damage that much, I'm hauling a horse trailer with 3 dogs. I'm sure something else was going to happen, I did plan to patch up that rusty little hole on the fender.
 

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Little update, I finally got a video of the truck and the frame/suspension/engine looked and sound really good, normal for it's age, surface rust and nothing more, u-joints, steering axle, driveshaft etc looked worn but not failing, normal for an older farm truck, sorry I can't post it, we did it via facetime. I have a lot of the same worries you all do with the wiring, it's a must re-do if I purchase this truck, my engineering brain will not let that slide. The radiator situation is definitely something I could fab up in no time and something I did not notice until you all pointed it out, thank you!!! Wiring was the 1st red flag, however, a very manageable one.

I then discovered this truck's conversion was not done by the person I'm buying the vehicle from, he certainly knew a lot about it and was able to answer any of my very particular questions, maybe was even involved in it, or done fummins swaps before, however, this red flag is something that I'm not sure I can manage.

Fast forward a couple of days and I get a lovely call from the bank (securing a mortgage for a vacation/investment property) and he tells me I have to pay off one my current car loans to qualify for the money that I want and there goes my fun cash stash. I was quite pissed at first for reasons I'm not gonna get into, banks. However, this means that I cannot jump into this project without my fun cash available anymore, I was totally prepared to have to do some fixing and I am thankful for all of the great insight I received.

I still need a horse hauler and while this is a speed bump, it frees me up to go get credit and maybe go with a much newer cummins engine, thinking about a 5th gen 2500/3500 here, after I close on this property, which was not an option before and why I was looking at cheaper project.

Hopefully I'm gonna have something tasty to report in a few months. I still really like the reliability and simplicity of the 12v so I still might do a conversion but into a much newer ford, I'm sure there's mainly dodge guys in here, no beef haha, PSD 6.7 seem to blow up as much as they 6.0s and 6.4s did so this might not be difficult.




u2slow, man this is exactly what attracted me to this build, ZF6, p-pump etc, however, the more I looked into it, the more I realized I was probably going to have to pull the engine out to cross all the T's and dot all the I's which I was fine with but for $6k-$8K not $10k. Life has a way of working out, we will never know if this would've been a mistake or a great find.

edit: adding a few more photos
IMHO you would be better off going with a high-end respected engine builder to just rebuild a powerstroke.
Then you have a truck that just works, you also retain the resale value. Not a lot of people will want a swapped truck.
Choate Engineering and DFC Diesel are 2 of the best in the business. Both use cutting edge machining and components. They eliminate all the factory weak spots.
Both have wicked warranties.

I love the 08-10 6.4s, that truck has a killer look to it and it has a quiet cab with an interior that does not look out of place with modern trucks.
However, that stock 6.4 is a ticking time bomb. So many issues.
I've listened to a few podcast interviews with Cass @ Choate and he does a great job in breaking down how you build a 6.4 with Cummins reliability. It does take a completely new machined long block, even the reman Ford 6.4s are garbage.

I'm always on the lookout for a clean 08-10 Ford with a blown engine. However all I ever find is clapped out and rotted out oil patch trash. You need to find that grandpa truck that blew an engine at 100K ahahah.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
IMHO you would be better off going with a high-end respected engine builder to just rebuild a powerstroke.
Then you have a truck that just works, you also retain the resale value. Not a lot of people will want a swapped truck.
Choate Engineering and DFC Diesel are 2 of the best in the business. Both use cutting edge machining and components. They eliminate all the factory weak spots.
Both have wicked warranties.

I love the 08-10 6.4s, that truck has a killer look to it and it has a quiet cab with an interior that does not look out of place with modern trucks.
However, that stock 6.4 is a ticking time bomb. So many issues.
I've listened to a few podcast interviews with Cass @ Choate and he does a great job in breaking down how you build a 6.4 with Cummins reliability. It does take a completely new machined long block, even the reman Ford 6.4s are garbage.

I'm always on the lookout for a clean 08-10 Ford with a blown engine. However all I ever find is clapped out and rotted out oil patch trash. You need to find that grandpa truck that blew an engine at 100K ahahah.
[/QUOTE
IMHO you would be better off going with a high-end respected engine builder to just rebuild a powerstroke.
Then you have a truck that just works, you also retain the resale value. Not a lot of people will want a swapped truck.
Choate Engineering and DFC Diesel are 2 of the best in the business. Both use cutting edge machining and components. They eliminate all the factory weak spots.
Both have wicked warranties.

I love the 08-10 6.4s, that truck has a killer look to it and it has a quiet cab with an interior that does not look out of place with modern trucks.
However, that stock 6.4 is a ticking time bomb. So many issues.
I've listened to a few podcast interviews with Cass @ Choate and he does a great job in breaking down how you build a 6.4 with Cummins reliability. It does take a completely new machined long block, even the reman Ford 6.4s are garbage.

I'm always on the lookout for a clean 08-10 Ford with a blown engine. However all I ever find is clapped out and rotted out oil patch trash. You need to find that grandpa truck that blew an engine at 100K ahahah.
Hmmmm I never really thought about just buying a professionally built engine(warranty is kinda nice to have not to mention piece of mind when hauling 800 miles away from the garage) and I'd never heard of those companies, thanks for the mention. I'm gonna look em up, maybe I'll just get a drop in built 12v from em. I'm still gonna go against your idea of not swapping a truck, If I don't do a swap, I'm just taking credit out and getting a new to me sub 50k miles Duramax. In my opinion chevy is the best overall package, ford makes a better frame/body/truck, dodge has a better engine and features, chevy is just ok at everything, they would take my money for what I consider a new truck (I will never buy a 0 miles truck)

The idea for this vehicle is to be a long distance hauler for a large horse trailer/rv combo when we go to shows or excursions far away with half the farm (horses, dogs and stowaways) and then live the rest of it's life as a hay/crap mover around the farm once it's aged considerably or my current farmhand truck dies (unlikely, been trying to kill it for years haha), unless some apocalypse **** happens that truck is never gonna get past my ownership.

I've been on the prowl since I got these news about the house, I found a potential blown up '17 F350 dually a my local auction that I'm going to check out tomorrow, 300k miles on the body, no zf6 but a much newer truck. The tranny might be toast based on the way they tried to take the vehicle apart on the pictures. Last one they had with bad engine and tranny was a '15 and it went for $5k... Fingers crossed. If the tranny checks out and I get this one, it's gonna be a long time till I can start the build, it'd have to wait after the close of the house. Mortgage officer might kill me if I go around dropping 15k in parts on the credit card haha

My ideal base truck would be a Ford garage kept blown up frame/cab/bed with a ZF6 and 4x4(not much to ask right hahaha) Hell, I'd even consider buying a working one and parting out everything I don't need if it's feasible. I almost enjoy this part more than the actual build, it's just more stressful haha. I really wish I had the tools/shop needed to remove the cab. It would really open up my options in terms of what I could buy to piece together. Cheers and thanks for the insight!
 

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I'm always on the lookout for a clean 08-10 Ford with a blown engine. However all I ever find is clapped out and rotted out oil patch trash. You need to find that grandpa truck that blew an engine at 100K ahahah.
I see low mileage 6.0鈥檚, 6.4鈥檚 and early 6.7鈥檚 that have failed pop up on RV forums.
 

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I see low mileage 6.0鈥檚, 6.4鈥檚 and early 6.7鈥檚 that have failed pop up on RV forums.
Canadian RV forum ?

Please send me link.
 

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Hello everyone,

I have been lurking the forums, absorbing everything I can for a few weeks when I decided to look into Fummins swap for my next horse trailer hauler. Little bit of background about me, I come from a 4x4 rock crawling background. I have some mechanical experience, just not diesel or truck/hauler experience and engineering background, do not mind tearing into stuff and figuring it out. I tried asking around in my local community and I just came up empty handed. I was wondering if someone here has gone through this process before and would be willing to provide me with some insight. I've been gobbling up as much info as I can from this forum regarding fummins swaps.

I am in the market for a new horse trailer hauler, will not be a DD, however, we will make 7-10 long distance trips during the year. I was originally going to do my own rebuild and swap, while I was looking for blown up PSD 6.0s or 6.4s I ran across this build: It is a 2001 F350 Fummins married to a ZF6 with a few upgrades, current owner claims 350-400hp (I will add the list of modifications from the ad at the end in lieu of a signature as I don't own the truck yet)


This truck runs strong according to the seller. I am going to have it checked by a diesel mechanic for overall health (basic health check that can be done in an hour or two), however, I wanted to know what I should look for specifically in these swaps in terms of usual mistakes, "cheap fixes" people tend to do, mistakes that are easily made on swaps and anything else you think I should look for/ask. The wiring, worries me a bit, not a full spaghetti/confetti job, but it leaves a lot to be desired.

I am aware that buying someone else's conversion there's going to be some re-engineering required when it comes time for maintenance/repair and I am ok with that. I just don't want to be blindsided with something due to my inexperience. I am also repairing, modifying this build if something is not right. I am familiar with forums guidelines as I am member of several in the 4x4 community, I wanted to say I did use the search function, google and youtube to the best of my ability, however, I came up empty handed for general insight, I did find a lot of specific information I am sure I will need later.

Truck Description:
F350 Cummins Engine Solid Truck Fummins conversion tranny shaft filed back destroked dow pin removed airdog 150 4x4 lock front hubs high low all pulls strong. married to a ZF6 tranny. add on cat turbo, new injectors, dual electric fan. 2 batts <3 y/o. Runs very strong, I'm guessing 350-400 hp 800 lbt very good compression. Fresh fluids, oil and tune, new throttle cable. Brand new dual disc clutch (may need broke in if I don't drive it much before sale) Just spent $2500 at friend鈥檚 shop. New trailer wiring w gooseneck and extended bed (has some damage and rear bumper needs replaced.) 12v 160k miles 180k chassis. Truck is located in Cecilia, KY

I added some pictures of the engine bay just in case and a short video just in case.
Video: Engine Runing

If I posted on the wrong section or this is not appropriate, I apologize trying to get a hang of it all.
I have done two of these swaps . A 2001 F250 SD 4x4 and a 2006 F250 SD 4x4 . 10K will not come close to taking either one of them . That being said , I would not go to the trouble of another . The truck you are looking at is a 12 valve so a lot more simple than a 24 vale swap . If it were me , do as you are doing and get it looked at and see if the fellow will let you drive it a couple of days . If in and out are in good shape , it checks out good , it is a 4x4 and you like it . 9 or 10K leaves you a lot of cash to spend on the truck down the road if needed . But make sure everything checks out . Other wise I would just go out and find a clean , used pre DEF Dodge with a good clean Cummins . Just my opinion .
 

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Hello everyone,

I have been lurking the forums, absorbing everything I can for a few weeks when I decided to look into Fummins swap for my next horse trailer hauler. Little bit of background about me, I come from a 4x4 rock crawling background. I have some mechanical experience, just not diesel or truck/hauler experience and engineering background, do not mind tearing into stuff and figuring it out. I tried asking around in my local community and I just came up empty handed. I was wondering if someone here has gone through this process before and would be willing to provide me with some insight. I've been gobbling up as much info as I can from this forum regarding fummins swaps.

I am in the market for a new horse trailer hauler, will not be a DD, however, we will make 7-10 long distance trips during the year. I was originally going to do my own rebuild and swap, while I was looking for blown up PSD 6.0s or 6.4s I ran across this build: It is a 2001 F350 Fummins married to a ZF6 with a few upgrades, current owner claims 350-400hp (I will add the list of modifications from the ad at the end in lieu of a signature as I don't own the truck yet)


This truck runs strong according to the seller. I am going to have it checked by a diesel mechanic for overall health (basic health check that can be done in an hour or two), however, I wanted to know what I should look for specifically in these swaps in terms of usual mistakes, "cheap fixes" people tend to do, mistakes that are easily made on swaps and anything else you think I should look for/ask. The wiring, worries me a bit, not a full spaghetti/confetti job, but it leaves a lot to be desired.

I am aware that buying someone else's conversion there's going to be some re-engineering required when it comes time for maintenance/repair and I am ok with that. I just don't want to be blindsided with something due to my inexperience. I am also repairing, modifying this build if something is not right. I am familiar with forums guidelines as I am member of several in the 4x4 community, I wanted to say I did use the search function, google and youtube to the best of my ability, however, I came up empty handed for general insight, I did find a lot of specific information I am sure I will need later.

Truck Description:
F350 Cummins Engine Solid Truck Fummins conversion tranny shaft filed back destroked dow pin removed airdog 150 4x4 lock front hubs high low all pulls strong. married to a ZF6 tranny. add on cat turbo, new injectors, dual electric fan. 2 batts <3 y/o. Runs very strong, I'm guessing 350-400 hp 800 lbt very good compression. Fresh fluids, oil and tune, new throttle cable. Brand new dual disc clutch (may need broke in if I don't drive it much before sale) Just spent $2500 at friend鈥檚 shop. New trailer wiring w gooseneck and extended bed (has some damage and rear bumper needs replaced.) 12v 160k miles 180k chassis. Truck is located in Cecilia, KY

I added some pictures of the engine bay just in case and a short video just in case.
Video: Engine Runing

If I posted on the wrong section or this is not appropriate, I apologize trying to get a hang of it all.
Maybe get this for a hobby truck but not a horse trailer hauler. You dont want to be broke down with hot horses in the trailer while you're under the hood testing that scarey wiring job.
 
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