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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello guys,
As the title says I am wanting to build my early 2004 for a healthy tow rig. The goal is 550hp, limited by organic dual disc clutch and stock cp3, that will spool up quick for towing but still has enough upper end for some weekend cruising, all while avoiding high EGTs. I just pulled the engine because of bad injector and broken rings on #6. Looking to get it to the machine shop soon.

Already have
-ARP Head studs
-Air dog lift pump (150?)
-Smarty Pod S06

Build list
-o-ring head (and other needed machine work)
-Industrial Injection 60hp injectors
-Hamilton 178/208 cam/pushrods/103#springs/tappets
-AFE 5" SS exhaust
-AFE Bladerunner or ATS arcflow intake horn
-ARP rod bolts
-Fleece fuel filter delete
-Fleece coolant bypass kit

Now for the turbo, I am really considering the ats 3000/5000 compounds. Has anyone had experience with these turbos? Have also looked at crazy carl compounds which is slightly cheaper, has anyone had experience with this set up? Which BW turbos do you think would work best for what I am looking for? If not compounds what single turbo do you think would fill the gap?

Also plan on having a tuner put it on a dyno after I do all this work to really dial it in. I am sure that 550hp is a modest number for the parts I am considering but would rather detune to 550 than not reach my goal.

Do you guys think anything on my list is out of place or am I missing something?

Thanks for input
 

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Mountain Man Customs
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2,665 Posts
62/68/.8 gated t3 box stock borg SXE is all you need. Sell the Smarty and have it properly tuned by a reputable tuner with HPTuners or MM3. Firepunk is great.


Seriously you don't need compounds.
 

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Rethink the stock CP3, you won’t be able to keep rail pressure up


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Mountain Man Customs
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Stock cp3 will do 500-550 just fine unless it's hurt.
 

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You don't need bigger injectors, cam, exhaust, intake horn or to O ring your head. That's a lot of money unnecessarily spent. To hit your goal all you really need to do is get custom tuning. If you're dead set on a turbo, I'd get an SXE 362/68

I have had the crazy Carl piping kit for about 5 years now.
 

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Like others have said. You don't need any of that except possibly the head studs. Good custom tuning will get you there. A drop in s360 or s362 would be a nice improvement.
 

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I’ve seen them keep up with much larger injectors and put down dyno numbers over 600
I could only get 535 before loosing rail pressure. Maybe my cp3 was weak. Could have been tuning I suppose


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I hit 624 on a dyno. My tuner said he could add more fuel, but rail pressure would start dropping too low.

People have gotten upwards of 700 HP on a stock CP3, just depends on the health of the CP3.
 

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OP take a look at the stock cam and measure the lobes for wiping. If she’s good, throw it back in. Check the cam journals for scoring too.

How heavy do you tow? I wouldn’t be afraid of tossing 10k behind it with a 62/68/12 turbo as long as you’re not towing high in the Rockies. I would recommend the 12cm (.70 A/R) wastegated housing though.

Springs, pushrods, and ARP2000 head studs are all a worthwhile upgrade. Get a cheap intake horn from eBay. I’d save the coin on the other stuff for a 2nd gen manifold and piping kit. The stock 3rd gen manifold sounds terrible.
 

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2006 Dodge Ram 2500 SLT QCSB
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Just my .02. When I rebuilt my 5.9l I did go ahead and do the Hamilton towing cam and 103lb springs, along with bbi .5 injectors. By the time I got done with the build I didn't have any money left for a tune at that time so I've been running stock tune, and I will say, the difference that camshaft makes is visible. As in, zero black smoke, a little gray at WOT until the Turbo spools (stock turbo with solenoid deleted and replaced with boost elbow and turned up to about 35psi). For reference before the rebuild I was using an edge pressure box, on the 65hp setting it was smoking black when I got on it. My buddy put in ddp 90hp injectors, without doing any other work, on his 04.5, and that thing smokes like a coal train at any throttle position. I refuse to believe that that extra 30hp fueling is causing that much smoke, I think it's more of an air issue, that cam will flow more air = more boost at lower psi manifold pressure, as well as lower egts, and more efficient burn due to modifying the in cylinder egr valve overlap that the 06 trucks came with from the factory. With a proper tune it will run even cleaner with that extra fueling, with what companies are charging for a simple intake elbow these days $650 for a camshaft is beans. You can upgrade the exhaust housing/turbine on your he351 stock turbo as well if you want and easily meet your power goals without all that other stuff you mentioned, the main thing for those power levels is a little extra fuel and enough air to burn it.

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I hear you guys saying 62mm turbo. I have considered just replacing the turbo, only thought compounds because I am worried about spool up on a larger turbo. I'd really like it to spool as close to stock as possible. I am certain I can get there with a single but wouldn't compounds offer a wider curve of usable power?

I am going to use the valair dd 550hp organic clutch I have, still a lot of life left. Recently discovered southbend has a 650hp clutch for towing and would consider bumping the truck up in the future. That being said I think the parts I have listed would help me get their easily. With the addition of a cp3. Better yet I can upgrade that now and save me headache in the future when I swap the clutch. II has a 33% over cp3 for about 1k. Sounds like this may be the way to go.

Another question; Are the boost readings by the truck limited by the MAP sensor, so on my CTS2 it would only read to like 36psi or so? If thats the case I should probably look into switching to mechanical guages, the drawback there is I would lose the ability to turn down the smarty tuning on the fly.

OP take a look at the stock cam and measure the lobes for wiping. If she’s good, throw it back in. Check the cam journals for scoring too.

How heavy do you tow? I wouldn’t be afraid of tossing 10k behind it with a 62/68/12 turbo as long as you’re not towing high in the Rockies. I would recommend the 12cm (.70 A/R) wastegated housing though.

Springs, pushrods, and ARP2000 head studs are all a worthwhile upgrade. Get a cheap intake horn from eBay. I’d save the coin on the other stuff for a 2nd gen manifold and piping kit. The stock 3rd gen manifold sounds terrible.
Cattlepuncher- Typically tow 6-10k 2-3 times a month, 15k several times a year, and with the possibility of getting a camper soon hard to say how often the wife will have me towing lol. I have a fuel saver so the truck is usually only towing, or weekend cruising. We have a lot of rolling hills around me but no mountains. I do adventure into the Appalachian mountains a couple times a year, no Rockies though. Yea my manifold is cracked, 3rd gen problems, getting upgraded regardless of what I decide about parts.
 

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Besides being ugly the stock intake horn is fine. Firepunk guys run stock intake horns on their dodge race trucks. There used to be a guy on here who made 1k+ Hp with the stock cam and then went aftermarket and said it’s not worth the money. Save the money on that stuff and get custom tuning.
 

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Hello guys,
As the title says I am wanting to build my early 2004 for a healthy tow rig. The goal is 550hp, limited by organic dual disc clutch and stock cp3, that will spool up quick for towing but still has enough upper end for some weekend cruising, all while avoiding high EGTs. I just pulled the engine because of bad injector and broken rings on #6. Looking to get it to the machine shop soon.

Already have
-ARP Head studs
-Air dog lift pump (150?)
-Smarty Pod S06

Build list
-o-ring head (and other needed machine work)
-Industrial Injection 60hp injectors
-Hamilton 178/208 cam/pushrods/103#springs/tappets
-AFE 5" SS exhaust
-AFE Bladerunner or ATS arcflow intake horn
-ARP rod bolts
-Fleece fuel filter delete
-Fleece coolant bypass kit

Now for the turbo, I am really considering the ats 3000/5000 compounds. Has anyone had experience with these turbos? Have also looked at crazy carl compounds which is slightly cheaper, has anyone had experience with this set up? Which BW turbos do you think would work best for what I am looking for? If not compounds what single turbo do you think would fill the gap?

Also plan on having a tuner put it on a dyno after I do all this work to really dial it in. I am sure that 550hp is a modest number for the parts I am considering but would rather detune to 550 than not reach my goal.

Do you guys think anything on my list is out of place or am I missing something?

Thanks for input
You have thousands of dollars listed, totally pissing in the wind here. Literally the ONLY thing you need is tuning. That’s it. A modded stock turbo, stock/475 compounds, or a slightly larger single will certainly be cushions if you’re dead-set on 550. A stock turbo is singing its guts there, totally inefficient. There’s a BIG difference between making 550hp, and being able to USE 550hp. Best towing setup on the planet is stock/475 compounds. Period.
 

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Absolute BS
We already established that I probably had a weak cp3 and probably tuning but thanks for chiming in. You obviously didn’t read all the post


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