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Brake disc discussion

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:banghead:I am fed up with made in china warp master rotors. I can not go through a winter without having to turn them more than once:S:. I have used Napa, Schucks, and Car Quest rotors and those supplied by Midas and Meiniky. None of them will last without warping badly in a winter. It's not my driving or some other problem, it's the conditions and poor quality discs. So far all the discs I've used have been OEM replacements.
First part is what would cause a disc to be warp prone.
Second would be design and/or processes what would improve there resistance.
My thoughts on the cause is heat treating and temperature stabilizing either not being done or not done properly. Also a poor quality control over the metal and casting process.
Any thoughts on a cure?
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Something sounds wrong. I have a 2wd and have never had a problem in half a million clicks. My rotors are original and I have never had them turned even once. I wonder if there is an axle and/or bearing problem contributing to your woes. I know there are some fancy pads which reduce heating and are said to be better at resisting warping. My brother put some on his Hemi and loves them. Sorry I can't remember anything more specific about them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My original discs went away at 200,000 miles. One was cracked and the other was worn on one side more than the other. From that point on I started having trouble with warpage. I got a lot worse up here where it get colder in the winter. The front end has gone through a major rebuild and the problem persists. The right side is always the worst, but that is where is gets splashed the most too. The pads are of OEM type and are still like new after three disc replacements and I don't know how many turnings in the last 60,000 miles. I don't ride my brakes anf there are only 4 stop lights in my 55 mile commute.
 

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Are the calipers floating properly? Are they releasing properly? A partially collapsed hose may not let the fluid release which keeps caliper applied which will overheat the rotor. Sorry, but I'm 100% confident it is not a rotor or rotor quality issue. It is something else.
 

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Yeah, I've turned the rotors once in 20 years. Replaced them when I did the full rebuild of the front end a couple years ago. The old ones were still good, I just wanted EVERYTHING new up front.
Those horrible little spring clips and the rubber dampers are something I buy by the dozen as they are a poor design and cause rotor rattles. Do you lube the rails the cilpers mount and slide in? If the rotor is stuck there, bad things will happen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hoses were replaced at the rebuild and the calipers have been checked and even pushed off center to see if they would move freely, they did. My other truck has the same Napa discs, but i'm not driving it because I don't have any winter tires for it.
I am looking at SSB and Power Stop discs. Any comments on them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I recently read an article about piston sticking problems causing what feels like warped rotors.

I imagine it could also be caused by misinstalling the studs.
Went from fine after turning to grab and release now. It seem to start just noticeable then straight to bad. With the stuff they use on the roads around here it is not uncommon to find a puddle near the curb to splash your brakes with. I try to check for drag on the wheels every chance I get and has always been good except for the spot that warped.
 

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There's a theory that says the great majority of brakes don't warp unless misinstalled. I think it would be easy to overtorque the lug nuts or not put the studs in properly on a Dodge. It's no BMW or something that people get obsessive over every little setting. I know I just ran the studs in with an impact and zipped the lugs on the same way and I torque just about every lug nut that goes through my shop.

What does happen on a lot of rotors is the rotors get hot, then cool very unevenly as you sit with the pads applied at a stop light or whatnot. The pads deposit particles in the metal of the rotor causing a hard spot. Just turning them smooth doesn't get the hard spot out. The soft areas wear faster than the hard areas until you get .003 or more of uneven wear and it pulses again. A single high spot like what you're describing seems to fit this description. Maybe some different pads?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
One of the thing I try not to do is keep my foot on the brakes at a stop light just for the reason you mentioned. All but one of my stops is fairly level so it's not hard to do. I mostly use my transmission to slow down and the brakes to come to a complete stop. I'm very, shall we say annal, about lug nuts and impact guns. If you can't use a torque wrench you don't touch my lug nuts.
 

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Are you sure the rear brakes are doing their share? Maybe the fronts are just doing too much of the work. I just replaced the original rotors on my truck, 192k on them and aside from being rusty and too thin to machine they stopped smooth. I replaced them with slotted ones from here
Brake Performance - Slotted and Drilled Brake Rotors

I have only put maybe 1500 miles on them but so far so good.
 

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My truck did some weird stuff, mostly noise, vibration and pulling. The pads wore funny but my rotors came out of it okay. The cause was a bad inner wheel bearing. I think that your truck, being a 4x4, has a different bearing set-up. There could be a problem in there which hurts your rotors. I would look for a good used set of rotors just to eliminate rotor quality as the prime cause.

The Chinese make the best and the worst in the world. It is the buyer's specifications which determine which we get. I call it the Wal-Mart effect.
 

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do the brakes get very hot under normal driving conditions? Rotors shouldnt just warp all of a sudden, it takes a lot of heat and abuse. maybe a proportioning valve or master cylender isholding the brakes on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
There is no brake drag (except were the warp is), they are releasing like they should. There are only two places on my route were I have to use my brakes harder than normal, both are down a long hill from 55mph. One is a stop light, the other is a sharp curve. Both usually have water, snow, or slush at the bottom.
 
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