Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum banner

1 - 20 of 45 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,426 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
2005 quad cab long bed.

I have 305/55/20 A/T tires on 20X12 wheels. While making turns at highway speeds, generally around 55mph+, the tire on the drivers side bounces kind of like a pogo stick like bounce. Not super fast bounce and not a vibration. Don't feel anything in the steering wheel but feel the whole truck bouncing. No cupping on the tires.

Things to note, all new in the past 20K miles: front bearings, axle u joints, brakes(calipers, pads, rotors, lines), steering linkage, track bar, control arms, ball joints, shocks, end links, sway bar bushings, steering shaft, gear box, PS pump, one piece aluminum DS.

Now most of that stuff I replaced either to fix an alignment issue from leveling (axle off center) or due to age.

It did the same bouncing prior to all of this work, and with the old tires. Old tires were mud tires the previous owner didn't balance. I had originally assumed that was the problem along with the blocky tread. The new tires, I had trouble finding someone to mount and balance and in the back of my mind I still think that might be the issue as I don't think they were done well.

It seems like the issue got more pronounced when I did aftermarket stiff end links (which may be because I need to fix the adjustment as I think they are 1/8 - 1/4" off)

Guess my question is, would tire balance account for tires bouncing, a slowish bounce, only while making right hand turns on some roads at 55+? Since no one will touch my current setup I've been able to find yet, I was thinking of picking up new wheels in a 20X10 from the cyber monday deals. I'd rather not waste my money if I'm not even in the right ballpark.

Tires have been smooth as can be going straight up to 90mph and it really is hit or miss on what roads cause the bouncing (only ever making a turn), but it's felt the most at one particular turn on the highway that appears to have very smooth asphalt. That same stretch is smooth in my mustang and my dads F-150 for example.
 

·
Trying to learn
Joined
·
6,217 Posts
Didn't see mention of when Shocks last replaced.
Switch the front tires and see if bounce follows.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,426 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Didn't see mention of when Shocks last replaced.
Switch the front tires and see if bounce follows.
they are in there, last 20K miles. Bilstein 5100s. Including the steering damper I did forget to list.

Rotated and doesn't change. same when it had the mud tires.

If I had to guess, it's usually turns where it shifts the weight to the passenger side while doing 55+. Once the weight lifts off the drivers side it just starts bouncing. Doesn't do that when turning the other way, but I'm not sure I encounter many turns to the left like I do to the right that shift the weight that much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
440 Posts
Double check your wheel u joints. I had this EXACT problem my steering would bind up and wheels felt like they were bouncing up and down while turning at speed. Slow moving I couldn’t tell.

My wheel u joints were not that old either and froze up with rust.
 
  • Like
Reactions: nosympathy

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,426 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Double check your wheel u joints. I had this EXACT problem my steering would bind up and wheels felt like they were bouncing up and down while turning at speed. Slow moving I couldn’t tell.

My wheel u joints were not that old either and froze up with rust.
they've technically been replaced twice, as I worried I made a mistake on the first set. So 3 different u joints all have done it. Set on there when I got it, first spicer set I did, second spicer set I did. First spicer set looked perfect when I removed them. Total waste of time and money lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,800 Posts
It does sound like a shock issue.
 
  • Like
Reactions: nosympathy

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,426 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
It does sound like a shock issue.
are the bilsteins junk? sure seems like everyone loves them and its done this since before i installed them. It "stiffened" up the ride through corners, but I noticed that if I rock the truck, it wobbles back and forth a second before stopping. I'm not sure if this is normal or not for a 3/4 ton truck. My dads F-150 doesn't do that and my mustang doesn't, but two very different vehicles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,800 Posts
Not that I've ever heard. I've only heard good about them but anything mechanical is subject to failure.

Does it bounce more in one direction vs the other? Perhaps a tire with a failing belt or sidewall?
 
  • Like
Reactions: nosympathy

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,945 Posts
Try drive truck in 4WD a u joint or other front axle issues would be amplified.
Stock sway bar is known to cause wobbles, Thuren/Carli torsion sway bar makes a big difference.
Bilstien are a step above stock shock, I have noticed issues with them and larger tires, temperature , road surface they seem to fade in and out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,426 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Not that I've ever heard. I've only heard good about them but anything mechanical is subject to failure.

Does it bounce more in one direction vs the other? Perhaps a tire with a failing belt or sidewall?
Only when turning right at highway speeds, 2 sets of tires have done it.

Try drive truck in 4WD a u joint or other front axle issues would be amplified.
Stock sway bar is known to cause wobbles, Thuren/Carli torsion sway bar makes a big difference.
Bilstien are a step above stock shock, I have noticed issues with them and larger tires, temperature , road surface they seem to fade in and out.
Not a u joint issue, does it with front DS out, front axles have been replaced twice to be safe, rear was swapped to a 1 piece 5" with 1480 joints. I use 4wd often as I have had to transport 40,000+ gallons of water this past summer all over 15 acres.

I hadn't really seriously looked at those sway bars because of the costs, but imagine I could remove the sway bar or unhook one side and see if the issue goes away. I know the bushings didn't look great but seemed solid. Maybe I'll try replacing those first. I know previous owner put moog in right before I got it, I am sure like most moog stuff anymore they are not that great.

$500+ for a way bar for my beater vehicle is hard to stomach when I can buy a fully adjustable set with new adjustable end links for my fun car that's 11 years newer for that price lol.

What is recommended for a shock then? The carli signature shocks?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,964 Posts
When you got aligned after all the front end work,,,, was there a substantial difference in side to side castor IE : bent/tweaked diff tubes/housing .

Seems there is always some difference , but shouldn't be huge.
 
  • Like
Reactions: nosympathy

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,426 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
When you got aligned after all the front end work,,,, was there a substantial difference in side to side castor IE : bent/tweaked diff tubes/housing .

Seems there is always some difference , but shouldn't be huge.
Not that I remember, alignment sheet looked pretty normal.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 24hrsparkey

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,800 Posts
I'll go in a different direction here then. If it's only happening to the right you may have a steering gear issue or the geometry is off on that alignment. Have the wheels been checked? Sorry, running out of ideas. :(
 
  • Like
Reactions: nosympathy

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,426 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I'll go in a different direction here then. If it's only happening to the right you may have a steering gear issue or the geometry is off on that alignment. Have the wheels been checked? Sorry, running out of ideas. :(
I have been debating if the steering box is the issue. It's a reman from the auto parts store. The one before that the previous owner did was a reman as well from the auto parts store. I know they have less than stellar reviews. I have been thinking of biting the bullet and buying a 6 bolt borgeson box so it's an easy swap. This box when turning kind of jumps when you push on the pedal almost like the increased flow gives it more power that it should have at while coasting or at idle. It can be a little goofy accelerating in turns as it all of a sudden turns a little more. The PS pump is a brand new bolt back unit, I know it's good. I vacuum bled the whole setup and it never produces bubbles. Has to be the box.

That said, I replaced the sway bar bushings tonight with what I could get quickly, another set of moog. I figure I can see if that helps any and order better bushings after. I did notice the drivers side bushing looked like a wreck (egg shaped and pitted/scraped on the inside), but the question becomes, does it look bad because it's the issue or is it damaged from another issue lol, i.e. the bouncing.

As for the wheels, I decided not to buy new as I finally found a place to touch them. They do show vehicles, sema like truck builds and such. So mine will be a weird vehicle to have there, but the important thing is they are used to mounting all kinds of wacky sizes, rubber band tires, etc. So I don't think my setup will be anything special for them to touch. Hopefully they can do a roadforce balance and see if they find anything odd.

I'm now also debating buying different shocks. I think I'll take a video of me rocking the truck tomorrow and see if that seems normal to others on here. It just bothers me as I've always judged shocks by how fast a vehicle settles and the truck just doesn't settle as fast as I think it should for such a stiff and heavy vehicle.

I have a feeling I'm going to find it's multiple issues that just present themselves all at once at the right circumstances. It's been driving me mad :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,964 Posts
It may or may not be the steering box BUT i gotta tell you the Napa re man boxes are just one notch above garbage . On my 01 i got lucky and it was alright for 2 years and then got floppy , hey it was only 165$ .
On my sons 94 , OMG the first 2 where horrible ( no return to center and hard one way and normal the other . for real . ) and this 3rd one is horrible as well with a big notch turning right . I have popped the steering and manually flopped the hubs and U joints back and forth and while almost new components there is no griping in the steering rack system to cause this. .
Anyway .

NO to the overpriced Borg box nor steering shaft . No Borg nothing for me thank you .

IF i had to buy a steering box today , Id get a BlueTop . OR shell out large and get the bigger OEM Mopar box and pitman arm it requires.
I had a RedHead on a Furd F350 and it was fine minus it leaked some.

just one mans exp with steering boxes.
Carry on gents.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,426 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Next best shock for stock springs and money,IMO, Rancho 9000 adjustable, can be found on sale for same price as Carli Bilsteins.
Odd question since they were brought up, how the heck do you adjust the fronts once they are installed? Not sure if I'm looking at it wrong, but sure seems like that adjustment would be a royal pain to get too as it would be just right under the spring bucket. Would have been nice if they were top adjustable.

It may or may not be the steering box BUT i gotta tell you the Napa re man boxes are just one notch above garbage . On my 01 i got lucky and it was alright for 2 years and then got floppy , hey it was only 165$ .
On my sons 94 , OMG the first 2 where horrible ( no return to center and hard one way and normal the other . for real . ) and this 3rd one is horrible as well with a big notch turning right . I have popped the steering and manually flopped the hubs and U joints back and forth and while almost new components there is no griping in the steering rack system to cause this. .
Anyway .

NO to the overpriced Borg box nor steering shaft . No Borg nothing for me thank you .

IF i had to buy a steering box today , Id get a BlueTop . OR shell out large and get the bigger OEM Mopar box and pitman arm it requires.
I had a RedHead on a Furd F350 and it was fine minus it leaked some.

just one mans exp with steering boxes.
Carry on gents.
I know it needs replaced regardless. I am pretty sure it's got a slight click when turning. I was going to just settle for a blue top for now, but when I looked the past couple weeks and again today, he shows sold out of everything dodge. I have seen a lot of bad concerning redtops for a bit now.

Unless I am remembering wrong it's closer to $850 for a mopar 6 bolt + needed pieces. I can get the borgeson for $562. I would pay the difference if I saw a reason too, so far I haven't seen any bad reviews on the 6 bolt borgeson boxes. Only on the old 4 bolts that were hit or miss. I have their steering shaft and it's been fine.

So what is wrong with Borgeson? I'm not brand loyal to anything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,426 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Well, I am full ready to wear the hat of shame if this is it.

When I had installed the bilsteins originally, I torqued the shock nut to shock tower mount at 35 ft-lbs, that's what the service manual listed it as, it's what I did. I checked them tonight and the drivers was pretty loose compared to the passenger, neither seemed overly tight. Loose enough that a jarring up and down movement would cause a lot of "play" so to speak IMHO. Definitely worse on the drivers side. Not sure if the Nyloc nuts backed off some, or the bushings shrank, or I never really did get them tight (I am thinking the bilsteins needed tighter than OE spec.)

Anyway, I tightened them down a "little" tighter than 35 ft-lbs this time. I'll test drive tomorrow and find out if that was it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,945 Posts
Odd question since they were brought up, how the heck do you adjust the fronts once they are installed? Not sure if I'm looking at it wrong, but sure seems like that adjustment would be a royal pain to get too as it would be just right under the spring bucket. Would have been nice if they were top adjustable.



.
On my truck OEM springs had just enough room to turn knob, thru spring opening using 1/2 piece of hose as extension. :wink2:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,426 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
On my truck OEM springs had just enough room to turn knob, thru spring opening using 1/2 piece of hose as extension. :wink2:
Good to know it can be done! Started to wonder if I could just run a 2nd shock kit that mounts one on the outside and not run a shock on the inside. Sure would be a lost easier to remove them since I have to get a wrench on the one side's nut to remove the bolt on the axle side.


Welp, I also found the mopar kit for dirt cheap at Summit compared to everyone else, so 6 bolt box is coming my way. I am ready to get this cheap reman out! Of course, I wait until it's in the low 30s/high 20s to do it :grin2:
 
  • Like
Reactions: 24hrsparkey
1 - 20 of 45 Posts
Top