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Hey guys, I could use some experience on this one. Truck is an 05, 610 motor, plastic intercooler 4x4 3500 NV5600. 213,000 miles. I’m the original owner, still on the original clutch. Only engine mods are a full exhaust (recently since my roktech muffler rotted out) diamond eye quiet exhaust and down pipe and BD pulse manifold from about 4 years ago. Had a smarty jr a few years ago, but returned to stock after I realized I could slip the stock clutch and didn’t want to buy a replacement clutch just yet (therefore thanks to the smarty I now have the updated Chrysler ecm file..... yay....)

Well, I’m in a much better financial position today than I was a few years ago. That said, I really have no desire to replace this truck.

Truck went into the limp mode with the wait to start light a couple of weeks ago coming down a large grade while towing. Threw P1222 code also. Did that for a good 60 miles. Couldn’t clear the code or the limp mode with my bluedriver. Threw the code again on the backside of lava hot springs, this time stayed on all the way home 2 hours later.

Lots of research and have concluded injectors are probably wore out and returning enough fuel to fail the monitor while motoring. I’m able to get 23.3k psi out of the system under WOT. Using my scan tool, I was able to see 22k at idle using the command that AutoEnginuity has in there. Highest difference I saw while I ran a contribution test was 95%. Usually was at 97% and 102% while the rest ran around 98-100%. Did a cut test and nothing obvious. No excessive blowby and no fuel visually present in oil.

Picked up a set of the High flow bosch Motorsport 25 hp remans from DAP and will install them tomorrow along with a new FCA, rail sensor, and PRV. I also need to remove my BD pulse manifold because the turbo to manifold flange is leaking again after installing a new gasket 3 weeks ago. I must have an erosion or something by where the pyro probes go.

Anyways, with that novel out of the way, I’m looking to get into an Sxe 362 in the near future as soon as I install a new clutch. I installed a 362 sxe acouple of years ago on an 01’ that belongs to buddy of mine with .7 housing. We installed a bunch of parts at the same time and it was unreal how well that truck runs. The guy at diesel auto power (who seemed extremely knowledgeable btw) that I spoke to thinks I need to 62/68/.80 for a manual truck that pretty much just tows my RV/ weekend rig now since I have a work truck and a gas card. I don’t plan on ever making more power than a nice single disc clutch can hold. I don’t particularly care for the drivability of dual disc clutches, and I can’t seem to find any good information out there on the clutch masters dual disc Street clutch. So the bottom line is I’ll never cross the 450-500 hp mark. I’ll probably never do a 2nd gen swap either. I may do head studs, jury is still out on that one. I’m not even sure on who’s tuning I’ll go with either. The calibrated power MM3 interests me, but I’m open to suggestions there. No stop light racing, but would like to have a little fun with it now and then.

Question is do I go for a .7 exhaust housing or a .8 for the best setup for towing? I really don’t care what it makes for power, I want the best spool and air flow in a single turbo possible for towing and great drivability. Is a .7 too restrictive on late 325 common rail engine? Does the .8 housing really change the 2000+ rpm range? The guy I spoke to at DAP said a .8 is what I need. I’m just worried about it being laggy is all.

Thanks!
 

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With a .8 you'll enjoy it much more on your stick, another advantage to the .8 is it's a larger housing, which does make a difference in staying cool. 25hp injectors are over kill for your goal, but not necessarily a bad move, it's a larger hole then stock, with proper tuning, the injection event can be shortened a little more for your 450hp. With proper tunes you'll pickup mpg, even if it's just slight, assuming you start calculating mpg after the fun wears off. Others might say different, but $450 for arps is definitely necessary, blowing head gaskets isn't fun...
I picked up over 2mpg with 15% PDD's, but I also drive pretty lightly.
 

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Lava hot springs, were practically neighbors.
I can't give you a suggestion, other than I love my new 363sxe.
 

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You wrote way too much for me to want to read it all, so i didn't. So going off your title and first two paragraphs, the .7 will spool a bit faster. Good for a manual since you lose some boost when shifting. If you're running a heavier fuel setup the .8 will be better for flow.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
With a .8 you'll enjoy it much more on your stick, another advantage to the .8 is it's a larger housing, which does make a difference in staying cool. 25hp injectors are over kill for your goal, but not necessarily a bad move, it's a larger hole then stock, with proper tuning, the injection event can be shortened a little more for your 450hp. With proper tunes you'll pickup mpg, even if it's just slight, assuming you start calculating mpg after the fun wears off. Others might say different, but $450 for arps is definitely necessary, blowing head gaskets isn't fun...
I picked up over 2mpg with 15% PDD's, but I also drive pretty lightly.
With a .8 housing, what makes it more enjoyable on a manual trans over the .7?

Problem is the only SXE experience I have is with a 62/68/.7 on an 01 with an edge box and other goodies. I’d like to just buy only once if I can help it.

Thanks for the reply!
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Lava hot springs, were practically neighbors.
I can't give you a suggestion, other than I love my new 363sxe.
Sort of neighbors, technically I live in the Magic Valley. However, I think I could live in soda Springs pretty easily. I’ve always enjoyed that area and especially snowmobiling in that part of the world.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
You wrote way too much for me to want to read it all, so i didn't. So going off your title and first two paragraphs, the .7 will spool a bit faster. Good for a manual since you lose some boost when shifting. If you're running a heavier fuel setup the .8 will be better for flow.
Sorry for the wall of text....lol.

I don’t know that I really care what it does above 3000 RPM. My main goal is just good drivability and towing with the occasional hang on I don’t know that I really care what it does above 3000 RPM.
 

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With a .8 housing, what makes it more enjoyable on a manual trans over the .7?

Problem is the only SXE experience I have is with a 62/68/.7 on an 01 with an edge box and other goodies. I’d like to just buy only once if I can help it.

Thanks for the reply!
You'll get more top end out of it, because it's a larger housing it flows more air, and for towing I much preferred a .8 over a .7
The egts for me were much easier to control. If it was an auto I could totally agree to a .7 but having driven and tested both on a stick this just one opinion of many.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I also saw the turbonator housing from DPS. It looks like you have to go to a larger turbine size than the 68. There really doesn’t seem to be a whole lot on the Internet about them. The electric exhaust break and quick spool on the bottom end with a big housing on the top end is intriguing if it actually works. money wise it’s about the same doing that versus just buying a regular turbo and adding an exhaust brake. Which I keep debating if I even need, I’ve gotten by this many years without it I guess.

I really appreciate all of your input!

Not really sure why I waited 15 years to finally have some fun with this truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You'll get more top end out of it, because it's a larger housing it flows more air, and for towing I much preferred a .8 over a .7
The egts for me were much easier to control. If it was an auto I could totally agree to a .7 but having driven and tested both on a stick this just one opinion of many.
could you tell much of a difference on the wind up between the .7 and the .8? Any negatives of going to the .8?
 

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They say it spools a tick slower, but I didnt notice any dramatic difference down low, but I definitely had more on the top end.
 

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Something to keep in mind is that the common rial head flows a lot more than the head on a vp44. Common rails also spool better.
a .80 on a common rail will spool similar to a .70 on an vp44 (assuming similar HP)

The 76/68 turbine wheel is much larger with larger turbine housings is 12cm /.70ar or 14cm/ .80ar. Compare to the stock he351 70/58mm turbine wheel and a 9cm houusing... The stock turbo is quite restrictive.

Back to your question.... .70 vs .80... both a 62/68/12 and 62/68/14 are a significant upgrade from the he351 for turbine flow and compressor flow.

The 12cm will spool about 50rpm faster and be better for 500-550HP, the 14cm will support 550-600HP.

My preference is for quicker spool and better response at the cost of a few extra HP and top end performance and would choose the 12cm for the way I use the truck.
 

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I vote for the smaller housing. I have the .8 on my truck, granted its an auto, but I am not a huge fan of it for towing. It makes good power and is great empty, but I can't get it to light well enough until about 2200 RPM when towing heavy to keep things cool. I think compounds are the way to go for drive ability, towing and go fast haha. My next plan is to to ditch the 362 and go to a smaller manifold charge and run a s400 based charger on top. Thats just my honest opinion. I would take my stock 351 over the 362 for towing any day.
 

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I vote for the smaller housing. I have the .8 on my truck, granted its an auto, but I am not a huge fan of it for towing. It makes good power and is great empty, but I can't get it to light well enough until about 2200 RPM when towing heavy to keep things cool. I think compounds are the way to go for drive ability, towing and go fast haha. My next plan is to to ditch the 362 and go to a smaller manifold charge and run a s400 based charger on top. Thats just my honest opinion. I would take my stock 351 over the 362 for towing any day.
What elevation, gear axle ratio, and tire size are you running?
 

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35's and 3.73. We're at about 4300 ft.
 

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12cm , or re/gear to 4.10, or 33" tires would make a difference, espceially if you have a tight/low stall converter. Compounds would solve much of your spool problem too. None of the options are very inexpensive (except tires if its time to replace them)
 

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Exactly my thoughts. Thinking the compound option though as this truck will become my play truck once I can get a newer gen ram for all our hauling and I know Ill want to turn it up a bit once that happens.
 

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Compound piping with s475 and manifold can be had for under $2200- will need studs if you dont have them and recommend valve springs too.
 

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Yep Yep. Thanks for the input!
 
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