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Bone stock 03 5.9 overheating when pulling hill's heavy loaded with 5th wheel

2541 Views 48 Replies 19 Participants Last post by  440scout!
03 5.9 Cummins six speed manual 4x4 dually... Bone stock had it about 5 years never moved the temp needle Previous one owner 90k mile from an older neighbor that passed. His wife had every recipe from day one kind of truck. He babied it and was immaculate when I purchased. Recently when pulling heavy loads over hills 12k lbs 5thwheel will get hot. My live feed gauge shows hottest 235 then I would pull over and let it rest. This happened on one trip then I took her home and changed the fan clutch with OEM and the radiator... I put in a aluminum radiator it is better but when I pulled heavy today I reached 225 never seen any thing over 205 until what ever is going on now Currently I have 190k miles, I have no oil in the water, no water in the oil and no water coming out the tale pipe, no drop in water fluid in radiator or reservoir. So I've ruled out head gasket. I have no oil in the radiator is it possible that the engine oil cooler is the culprit? If I'm pulling straight aways or empty needle never moves only steep grades while heavy... Any input would be great
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Thanks for sharing the photos. I didnt have any on hand.
No problem. Already had it on my phone where I sent a pic to someone.
I just made a boost tester from hardware store parts. Cost less than $20. 4" to 3" fernco reducer, 3" PVC cap, and a 3/8" swivel male hose end. Drill 1/2" hole in cap and thread tape the mess out of the hose end and screw it in. I was going to epoxy it but it held fine with just thread tape. You can add a pressure gauge or a shut off if you want but I just set my compressor regulator to 30psi and it worked fine if I were to do it again I'd at least add a shut off and will revisit that at some point but I was just spraying hoses real quick to check for bubbles. View attachment 975986
This is perfect just what I needed I know this is silly to ask but where do you hook it in to the system can you take a picture pointing where it goes
The basic Idea it find a PVC fitting with same ID of the Turbo inlet OD on the turbo inlet just like your air box does.
Then use the rubber sleeve that comes with hose clamps to mount the PVC to the turbo.

Or to put it another way- Its a cap with a air coupler in the end that has some short pipe about the same size of the turbo that you a hose to hose clamp to the turbo inlet.

Go to your home building supply for your parts.
I am thinking off hand a 3'' DRV fitting is about right. The heavy pipe fittings.
I would over buy several parts that seem right and then just return what was not needed.
The swivel air coupler looks like good idea for coming up and out of the engine bay with the air hose. You just have to drill and tap the PVC cap for what ever size air coupler you use. I don't a shut off valve but did plumb in a pressure gauge for monitoring. I simply use the pressure regulator on my pot belly air compressor to set pressure. Connect the air line to your test fitting with the air compressor regulator at zero pressure. The slowly bring the pressure up to about 10 psi and let your air compressor hold that pressure as you use soapy water to check all your connections. Check your test adaptor to be sure it is not slipping off the turbo. You will be surprised just how much air can leak out at just 10 psi! Fix those leaks and just keep bringing up your air compressor regulator pressure up to your normal boost pressure or until your test fitting comes off.
You will hear the air going past the rings. This is normal and simulates ring blow by exiting out the engine breather.
I had my engine up to 20 psi and then closed the valve off to my supply air line. It was about 40 secs for the pressure to bleed off.
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The basic Idea it find a PVC fitting with same ID of the Turbo inlet OD on the turbo inlet just like your air box does.
Then use the rubber sleeve that comes with hose clamps to mount the PVC to the turbo.

Or to put it another way- Its a cap with a air coupler in the end that has some short pipe about the same size of the turbo that you a hose to hose clamp to the turbo inlet.

Go to your home building supply for your parts.
I am thinking off hand a 3'' DRV fitting is about right. The heavy pipe fittings.
I would over buy several parts that seem right and then just return what was not needed.
Sorry, my mistake. You want to try and match the same OD of the PVC to the OD of the turbo inlet as close as possible. I think a roll of duct tape on the PVC side was also involved to match OD's.
Welp that is a good observation didn't think of that... What do you call the exist gas gage to put on the radiator? So you have a picture of one? Thanks so much
Sorry it's a combustion gas tester not an exhaust gas tester but here it is. Combustion Leak Detector
So I have an 03 and hauled 23k lbs for 150 miles 10 trips. I had trouble with overheating for one issue. Turbo
So I have an 03 and hauled 23k lbs for 150 miles 10 trips. I had trouble with overheating for one issue. Turbo
Thank you how did you know the turbo was faulty?
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