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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys, I have installed the tran, diff temp gauges and boost gauge and now tonight I am going to do the FP gauge (electric)with a tapped banjo bolt. My question is, once I remove the factory banjo bolt, will fuel start to drain out of the bottom of the filter housing? What happens when I take that one out and replace it with the tapped banjo bolt? All of the other wiring should be no trouble, I just need to know what to expect with the bolts..?? What compund do I put on the threads of the banjo bolt...someone said NO TEFLON, right?


Thanks guys!!
 

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Just open the drain valve on the bottom of the filter housing. When you remove the banjo bolt the canister will drain through the drain. As for the banjo bolt where it screws into the CP3, you don't need anything on the threads. There are two o-ring embedded seals that are used. As for the sending unit screwing into the banjo bolt, i used teflon tape and have no issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thats itt? is it really that simple?



when i start the engine back up, do I just fill the filter canister back up with fuel??



by the way, Thanks Navy!
 

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Ya that or loosen the banjo bolt to breed the air out of the lines. Thats what did on brothers 04 when installed the fass
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
what do you mean, bleed the lines?
 

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You have to get the air out of the line or the guage might not work right for a while. I ran a grease gun hose from the Banjo Bolt to a T and put the guage and idiot light senders on either side of that. The first time I bumped the starter to get to kick the pump on, I left one fitting loose to get rid of the air in the lines. With fluid all the way to the senders I get an acurate reading and no needle bounce form the air in the lines compressing. I used PTFE paste on the threads of the fittings because most people over wrap teflone tape and I dont want pieces of the tape ending up clogging an injector. Just my $.02 Good Luck... Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
this was for an electronic gauge?
You have to get the air out of the line or the guage might not work right for a while. I ran a grease gun hose from the Banjo Bolt to a T and put the guage and idiot light senders on either side of that. The first time I bumped the starter to get to kick the pump on, I left one fitting loose to get rid of the air in the lines. With fluid all the way to the senders I get an acurate reading and no needle bounce form the air in the lines compressing. I used PTFE paste on the threads of the fittings because most people over wrap teflone tape and I dont want pieces of the tape ending up clogging an injector. Just my $.02 Good Luck... Chris
 

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NavyDood: When you say CP3, are you referring to the injection pump? I think Wann..99 was putting the banjo bolt on the bottom of the fuel filter.

If he is putting it in the bottom of the fuel filter I would think he would just drain and refill the filter canister like a filter change. The lift pump should reprime the system.

No teflon tape since this is after the filter and if any tape gets into the system it would either foul the injection pump or kill an injector.

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Just open the drain valve on the bottom of the filter housing. When you remove the banjo bolt the canister will drain through the drain. As for the banjo bolt where it screws into the CP3, you don't need anything on the threads. There are two o-ring embedded seals that are used. As for the sending unit screwing into the banjo bolt, i used teflon tape and have no issues.
 

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i diddnt use anything on the banjo bolt threads either. im with chris on the process. just bleed it
 

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Hmmm I never thought about a small piece of the teflon tape getting into the system since it is after the filter canister in my case. Fortunately, when i use teflon tape I have always made it a habit to leave a couple of threads showing at the end so teflon tape cant find it way into places that it shouldn't.

Yes I was referring to the CP3 injector pump. I changed the banjo bolt where it enters the top of the CP3. After I installed my Quadzilla RPG3000 with the fuel pressure sender, I just turned the key to on but did not start the truck. This lets the lift pump run a complete cycle to self purge the system from air. The truck started and ran fine. I really boneheaded when i installed my Glacier Walbro. I disconnected the fuel line at the tank before installing the glacier walbro. I got everything installed, turned the key to prime the system and then started the truck. It ran for about 5-10 seconds and died. I sucked every bit of fuel from the filter canister, line to the CP3, the CP3, the common rail, all the injector lines and injectors because I forgot to hook the fuel line back up at the tank. I reconnected the line, turned the key on to let the system self prime and the truck started and ran fine.
 

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You might want to drill out any banjo's you're not replacing with aftermarket. The ones at the filter restrict flow.

Drill to 3/16. And beware of overtorque on these. I don't know for sure about the factory ones, but the aftermarket ones are made of mild steel, so they strip before they damage the housing. This means 18 ft lbs of torque.

You can verify this at Dodge Ram Information
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
hb is right, I installed it at the bottom of the filter housing and after installation and running the hots and the grounds for the gauge, I started it up and it goes to 9-10 psi and pretty well stays there and does not move, even if I rev the engine....Does this sound right? should it move around a bit or should it stay steady at 9-10 psi? . My truck is stock and the gauge is an autometer electrical.
 

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Those pressures sound right for the original lift pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thanks for all of the info Navy! I just got off the phone with Autometer (excellent service from tech) and they confirmed that those numbers are ideal. They said operating range of 7-14psi and i am right in there for factory set-up with no mods.

Thank goodness for this forum. If it wasn't for this forum, there is no way in heck i would have evere started this because it would have been over my head, but with all of the info/threads/pics on ths site I am 2/3 done with the only thing left is the pyro.

To date, I have 2 gauge pod overhead with tran and diff temps (easy because of Mag Hytec's ports)

3 gauge A-pillar with boost (installed Tue) Fuel (installed last night) and Pyro tonight.

in all- 5 gauges, all Autometer Phantom series. I will post pics of them once I buttom up everything!:hyper:

Lot of time doing all of this but I do see the light at the end of the tunnel!


Those pressures sound right for the original lift pump.
 
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