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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 01 2500 4x4 with a 6" lift. I went to get a front end alignment and they told me they couldnt until i replaced my ball joints (upper and lower) and both sides. Ive replaced ball joints atleast a dozen times but never on a dodge 2500. It looks like a pain in the a** so i wanted to know if any of you guys had a good execution for the project. Any help would be appreciated. checked youtube for vids but came across a bunch of half a** projects.
 

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You have to becareful when you pull the wheel bearing out they do brake if it's frozen in. Have broke one some had to buy new one for $300 and done damage the bolts either from wheel bearing there $18 ea from dealer other wise there not bad to do.
 

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They are a PAIN as Dodge was kind enough to switch locations of them from where they were on earlier trucks. With the older trucks you could take the ball joint to a press and be done with it. I recommend a Port-a-power or a good (not rental tool quality) giant c lamp, swearing, and bandages and beer to top off the day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
They are a PAIN as Dodge was kind enough to switch locations of them from where they were on earlier trucks. With the older trucks you could take the ball joint to a press and be done with it. I recommend a Port-a-power or a good (not rental tool quality) giant c lamp, swearing, and bandages and beer to top off the day.
Lol I don't forget the beer, without it I have little patience while wrkn on trucks. Any body live near Gulfport, Ms? I can provide a warm shop and plenty of beer! Where is best place to get quality ball joints from? The local part stores just sell their brand
 

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Get an OTC ball joint press. Makes life a lot easier.
Just take your time pressing old ones out and new ones in. My upper one didn't want to go in straight with the angle on the inner axle C. The adaptor on it needed to be tapered. But I got it square then hammered it in to finish.
I choose Moog balljoints and when they go bad I may end up going back to Spicer.
Also check rockauto they had a timken unit bearing with abs for $185ea not a bad deal and its timken.
 

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Hey there, I tried your posted links and got nuthin. Got any part numbers? I'm thinking I should start putting together a parts list for eventual replacement.
Thanks.

Opps, nevermind. Part numbers were in the description.
Not sure whats going on there...doenst want to link to them no matter what. :confused013:

I updated the post with part numbers only. simply search for the part number on amazon and they will come up.
 

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A good ball joint press makes all the difference on how the job goes. I use a snap on press and it could not get any easier. OTC press works pretty good too. 1 hour per side and there done
 

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I just rented one of the cheap OTC clamp style presses from Autozone. Had to make a few adapters, and ended up bending the press slightly, but there were no problems with the rental return, got the full refund. The ball joints are a pain to get out, but the hardest part as mentioned above is removal of the wheel bearings. I beat mine to death with a sledge to finally remove them. After that, I wasn't sure if they were compromised or not so didn't chance putting them back in and ordered the Yukon free-spin hub kit with greaseable tapered bearings instead. Much sturdier than the uni-bearing design, and they can be taken apart, cleaned, and greased every few years. Would highly recommend doing this as it gains fuel economy as well. Back on topic of ball joints, I got XRF ones from tire club that sell for $199 that have a million mile warranty or something like that. Have had no problems last 50k miles. The top one is greaseable, so that will help with life expectancy as well.
 

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Hubs are easy to get out buy the snap on tool that uses the power steering and you will get them right out and the right press makes the difference in it being easy or hard to get joints out and back in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I think I will stick to the reybestos brand pro grade for now. I don't do much towing or off reading so they should be fine I need to get them installed before I eat up a $1300 set of tires. But I am going completely off topic, are these trucks steering gear boxes problematic? Mine is leaking fluid bad!! Any quick fixes before it burns out??
 

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I just ordered the raybestos professional grade for my truck. As I was going back and forth between rockauto and napa, I realized that Napa's ball joints are the same as the raybestos professional grade, but $30 a piece more (at least the pics are the same on both sites).
 

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The napa joints are junk mine didn't even last 15'000 miles now trying a set of spicer joints
 

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The napa joints are junk mine didn't even last 15'000 miles now trying a set of spicer joints
Been doing a lot of research and compare on ball joints and u say napa's were junk. Napa carries 2brands "master ride chassis" and "Napa chassis" if u got the master ride then yes they are junk but the Napa chassis part is the same exact product that is sold by raybestos pro grade part (low friction) if u look at build sheet or video they both have. I also read on other forums that the Napa chassis part is made by Spicer with same build construction. From what I read any ball joint that allows up and down movement they will fail due to internal carrier spring failing causeing slack and increased friction in the ball joint. I just ordered the raybestos pro grade off rock auto.com for $58 each uppers and lowers. I guess we will see how they do.
 
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The napa joints I got were moog won't ever use them again
 
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