I would bet a lot of money that EMF would last longer.
How are they stronger? That is false advertising. The pin is the same size with EMF or theirs regardless. The EMF are 4140 billet chromoly. Like David said they are creating a problem that doesn't exist to sell their product.That's the one question I didn't ask. But I found out that these are substantially stronger than ball joints and they solve a design flaw on Dodge trucks in regards to the misalignment of the pivot joints. This misalignment causes the hub to move up and down slightly when rotating back and forth which causes wear on the ball joints.
If you tore an emf ball joint apart you would have much larger problems, such as surviving the wreckage. Secondly their balljoints dont loosen up other than a tiny bit after breaking which I figure is about 10k kms. I have done things with both of my trucks that would make most people cry if it was their truck. I have put 100s of thousands of kms on these balljoints. Anything else is a waste of money.They're through bolted instead of a captured ball. The ball can tear out and is more prone to loosening up.
Machining is too costly. The EMFs already last forever if maintained and not using some retard firepit rims. I understand what billet is. EMF chose the materials they did to provide a premium product at a reasonable price.There are lots of stronger and affordable alternatives when it comes to material and all 4140 is cr-mo more or less and billet means nothing just that it was machined out of a bar or block which is obvious…
Really they should be using 8620 that would make them basically last forever as far as wear is concerned and the cost is similar to 4140
I once tried dynatrac and they were 1/8" play in 8 months. Carli lasted about 14 months. Moog 4 months and the EMFs haven't worn a set out yet in the 6 different trucks I've put them in.I have not used an EMF, I've only used the dynatech. I've also used OEM and Spicer and board Warner ball joints. I run 37s, my truck is heavily loaded and I am not by any means gentle on it. I have destroyed Spicer ball joints inside of 12,000 mi, I have broken the ball in cup of Moog. I have had the OEM ones loosen up but never break, loosen to the point of some decent wheel play.
The dynatex I have had in now for somewhere around 6 years and they do not in any way feel loose.
I'm not sure if a kingpin swap or EMF or this delete kit on here is needed but from my experience a quality ball joint will last without a problem
Having a heavy appliance on the front is far different than smashing down Canadian "roads" and resource roads. Catching air is more common than I would like it to be.I dont go $4 wheeling with a one-ton, but do plow with it and the "V" plow is heavy too!
I replace the *wheel bearings about every 80K and inspect it all.
So far, - at 270K miles, the Ball joints are as good as new!
* Next time for wheel bearing, I am going to Ttimkins with a free-wheeling hub kit!
No more modular crap.