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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm coming up on my third set of ball joints and was wondering if anyone has ever seen or used Ball Joint Deletes?
 

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I have dynatrac ball joints with a very heavy front end and 37-in tires. Mind hold up just fine.

I've seen post on here if people doing kingpin swap over and it seems to work well for them. I might be wrong but I think when you do the kingpin swap you convert over to hub lockouts like Ford has
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ball Joint deletes are not king pins.....These mount in place of the ball joints and seem to work like king pins.

 

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Go EMF and never look back.
 

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Ball joint elimitaors are great in the offroad seen, lots of rock crawlers use em if they cant get there hands on kingpins, but not sure about if there good or bad for a DD application
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That's the one question I didn't ask. But I found out that these are substantially stronger than ball joints and they solve a design flaw on Dodge trucks in regards to the misalignment of the pivot joints. This misalignment causes the hub to move up and down slightly when rotating back and forth which causes wear on the ball joints.
 

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That's the one question I didn't ask. But I found out that these are substantially stronger than ball joints and they solve a design flaw on Dodge trucks in regards to the misalignment of the pivot joints. This misalignment causes the hub to move up and down slightly when rotating back and forth which causes wear on the ball joints.
They're creating a problem to sell a product.
There's nothing wrong with the stock design on a Dana 60.
Upgrade to a set of EMFs. These guys understand solid axles.
Even the OEM Dana ball joints are fine unless you run stupid offset wheels and tires.

To date I still have not known anyone to even order a rebuild kit for their EMF joints.
 

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I will guess King pins are better as I have not ever seen ball joints on a class eight axles
 

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That's the one question I didn't ask. But I found out that these are substantially stronger than ball joints and they solve a design flaw on Dodge trucks in regards to the misalignment of the pivot joints. This misalignment causes the hub to move up and down slightly when rotating back and forth which causes wear on the ball joints.
How are they stronger? That is false advertising. The pin is the same size with EMF or theirs regardless. The EMF are 4140 billet chromoly. Like David said they are creating a problem that doesn't exist to sell their product.
Anything stronger than 4140 you wouldn't be able to afford.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
How are they stronger? That is false advertising. The pin is the same size with EMF or theirs regardless. The EMF are 4140 billet chromoly. Like David said they are creating a problem that doesn't exist to sell their product.
Anything stronger than 4140 you wouldn't be able to afford.
They're through bolted instead of a captured ball. The ball can tear out and is more prone to loosening up.
 

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They're through bolted instead of a captured ball. The ball can tear out and is more prone to loosening up.
If you tore an emf ball joint apart you would have much larger problems, such as surviving the wreckage. Secondly their balljoints dont loosen up other than a tiny bit after breaking which I figure is about 10k kms. I have done things with both of my trucks that would make most people cry if it was their truck. I have put 100s of thousands of kms on these balljoints. Anything else is a waste of money.

Have you ever installed an EMF ball joint or atleast held one in your hand? There is no way it would tear out.

This is a perfect example of their ridiculous marketing working on somebody. This is a non existent problem that you now think exists.
 

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The EMF are 4140 billet
There are lots of stronger and affordable alternatives when it comes to material and all 4140 is cr-mo more or less and billet means nothing just that it was machined out of a bar or block which is obvious…

Really they should be using 8620 that would make them basically last forever as far as wear is concerned and the cost is similar to 4140
 

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There are lots of stronger and affordable alternatives when it comes to material and all 4140 is cr-mo more or less and billet means nothing just that it was machined out of a bar or block which is obvious…

Really they should be using 8620 that would make them basically last forever as far as wear is concerned and the cost is similar to 4140
Machining is too costly. The EMFs already last forever if maintained and not using some retard firepit rims. I understand what billet is. EMF chose the materials they did to provide a premium product at a reasonable price.
 
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I have not used an EMF, I've only used the dynatech. I've also used OEM and Spicer and board Warner ball joints. I run 37s, my truck is heavily loaded and I am not by any means gentle on it. I have destroyed Spicer ball joints inside of 12,000 mi, I have broken the ball in cup of Moog. I have had the OEM ones loosen up but never break, loosen to the point of some decent wheel play.

The dynatex I have had in now for somewhere around 6 years and they do not in any way feel loose.

I'm not sure if a kingpin swap or EMF or this delete kit on here is needed but from my experience a quality ball joint will last without a problem
 

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I have not used an EMF, I've only used the dynatech. I've also used OEM and Spicer and board Warner ball joints. I run 37s, my truck is heavily loaded and I am not by any means gentle on it. I have destroyed Spicer ball joints inside of 12,000 mi, I have broken the ball in cup of Moog. I have had the OEM ones loosen up but never break, loosen to the point of some decent wheel play.

The dynatex I have had in now for somewhere around 6 years and they do not in any way feel loose.

I'm not sure if a kingpin swap or EMF or this delete kit on here is needed but from my experience a quality ball joint will last without a problem
I once tried dynatrac and they were 1/8" play in 8 months. Carli lasted about 14 months. Moog 4 months and the EMFs haven't worn a set out yet in the 6 different trucks I've put them in.
 

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Machining is too costly. The EMFs already last forever if maintained and not using some retard firepit rims. I understand what billet is. EMF chose the materials they did to provide a premium product at a reasonable price.
EMFs are machined…. Its not costly at all when running them on a CNC with what the cost if the EMFs are even after machining they would have a HUGE profit margin
 

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I have a seriously reasonable Question
Why is it that second-gen trucks with inboard rotors (and hard to work on) have zero ball joint problems?
These are almost exact front axles are they not?
Yes, the ball joints last forever.
My truck has 270K on it and all sorts of caveats, but no problems with the ball joints (owned since almost new)
The second they went to outside rotors and forward in time, the ball joints became a problem.
Now I do doubt the rotors have nothing to do with this, but is the line in time, the demarcation of when.
 

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In the 4 years I had my 98.5 it had 3 sets of balljoints. Oilfield use. As well as EMF not existing then. The dana 60 have balljoint problems just like every domestic pos pickup. But if it's a pavement princess it won't have as many.
 

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I dont go $4 wheeling with a one-ton, but do plow with it and the "V" plow is heavy too!
I replace the *wheel bearings about every 80K and inspect it all.
So far, - at 270K miles, the Ball joints are as good as new!
* Next time for wheel bearing, I am going to Ttimkins with a free-wheeling hub kit!
No more modular crap.
 
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