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Discussion Starter #1
I've got a 2001 3500 dually. Both axle seals on rear were leaking so we replaced both along with bearings while we had it apart. Driver side has held up great. Passenger side kept leaking so we replaced it again. It leaked even worse. So I went and bought a different brand seal that was suppose to be way better and it was 5x the price as the last one. So when we replaced it today, my mechanic (father inlaw owns mechanic shop) he went all out. He used some fine grit sand paper and sanded down where the seal sits, inspected hub for any cracks, and used some rtv silicone all around the seal. He made sure it was seated into the hub properly also before putting it back on. He used the same silicone for the flange gasket. It held up good for about 30 miles. After my 120 mile round trip today I looked at the inside of the tire and it had new oil on it. Its not leaking no where near as bad as before but it is still leaking a small amount of fluid. What the hell are we missing? This makes 3rd time its been changed in the past 8 days. I read somewhere that the axle nut needs to be torqued to 130 lbs. Is this true? Bc thats the only thing I'm positive he DID NOT do. When I say he he was meticulous, that dont even come close to the attention to detail he gave this damn thing today. Im not a mechanic by any means so if anyone can give me some advice, I'd really appricate it and please use terms that I'll be able to understand lol. Seriously tho. Thanks
 

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If you can't find/see anything wrong that could be damaging the seal, then you may have a bent axle or spindle?
 

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Probably not the problem, but always make sure your rear diff. vent is clean and able to exhale so it doesn't over pressurize and leak past the seals.
 

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One thought...Sometimes there is a slight groove in the axle shaft. Installing the new seal a little bit out from the original mounting spot can get past the worn area.

Hopefully your no leak repair will remain a no leak solution. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well guys, the driver side held up for almost a month. Now its leaking again lol. Gonna try one of those speedy sleeves. I think I have bigger problems first tho. Came off interstate the other day and couldn't get it out of 5th gear. Finally got it in neutral and then couldn't get it to go back into any of the gears so I shut truck off, put it in first, and started it back up. Shifted fine after that and continued yo shift fine every day for about 4 days after that. Then It did it one other time. Its got leas than 1,000 miles on the new slave and master cylinder and the clutch feels really good. It dont make any noises at any time while its doing this or even when it's not acting up. Any thoughts?
 

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The shifter lever may be worn internally.
 

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The shift forks have little pads on them , probably dropped one off or it wore. I would double check all what got done to the clutch master and slave first tho. Unfortunately the trans needs to be dropped to service the shift forks/cover. You can drain it and pull the pto covers and look. I've found them down in there before. Or they got chewed up in rotation and you won't see anything. How's your oil? I'm assuming you've got a NV4500. You can access the shift tower from inside the cab and have a look at that. Sometimes the problem can be something loose up there. And yes, is your diff vent clear? If it is then time to torque the axle nuts up and see if that helps.
 

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Measure the size of the spindle where the seal rides. Is it smooth with NO groves? Look up the size of the seal you are using on it and see if they match in the book.
If surface is smooth get a seal a few thousandths tighter and try it. If not smooth or available bet the seal and speedy sleeve to match the sizes. Use Prematex 2(non hardening) under the speedy sleeve to seal that side of it. Are you making sure the bearings re properly snug. If they are a little loose that could be the case of the seal failure. They should be snug and roll smoothly with no play in them.

Trani and axle seal issue not related.
 
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