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OK, hi, everyone, first time poster, long time lurker. I've been reading this forum and others ravenously trying to figure out the best course of action for adding AUX switches to my 2018 Tradesman which came with every option BUT this one (WHY?!?)

So, in the interest of a new Thread that more precisely addresses a FACTORY, OEM, retrofit of Aux Switches, here I am.

Anyway, I recognize and thank all of you who have worked on this in other threads, but with these last several threads/posts, I am wondering this:
YES, I know, I know, they say, "You can't add the factory setup" but... imagine for a second that we can…

For your consideration:
1. We can put in the physical switches to our trucks with ease.
(P/Ns vary greatly based on equipment, but for example, 68241341AA)

2. The wiring for the AUX switches is already present and runs back to a harness in the passenger footwell. I haven't looked at this harness to see if a piggyback harness can be added, or if the entire harness back would need to be changed, but this would be good to know. I think at a minimum, wires can be inserted and run from this point to the AUX PDC (Power Distribution Center) underhood, as seen in this picture https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/2013-general-discussion/1460554-auxiliary-switches-successfully-added-2014-tradesman-14.html#post26121858

3. Presumably, the bulk of the factory setup is simply to run these 5 wires from this harness back to the AUX Upfitter block. If we look at the wiring diagram (http://www.rambodybuilder.com/2013/docs/cc/dddpufwii.pdf) we can see the colored wires we know are out from the switches (BR/OR (P820), BR/VT (P821), BR/WT (P822), BR/GY(P823) and TN/BR (P819/PTO) and they APPEAR to run straight to the PDC underhood (See A,B,C,D,E which go right to relays, (again, wires P820, P821, P822, P823, P819)).

4. Note that the OP states in this thread https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/2013-general-discussion/1460554-auxiliary-switches-successfully-added-2014-tradesman.html#post16531482) that:

"These two pink/yellow wires had no pins on my old assembly nor on my new one. They are the wires I think are tied to the air bag system if equipped. Whatever they are, they are moot."

I believe they are NOT, in fact, moot, nor are they for the air suspension. If we look at the schematic, those Pink/Yellow wires (F930/F940) run back to the PDC, and appear that they determine the ignition behavior/etc. of the relays. (this may also explain why if he disconnected these and others didn't, that a diode would be needed to avoid backflow of current and the erratic behavior we've seen from others)

NOTE!!!! This is also a point of distinction, as the latching/power behavior according to the instructional videos I've seen, is done through EVIC and is selectable for EACH button, (see this video, at 1:27
), whereas according to the wiring diagram above, the behavior is governed by fuse placement at the PDC.

Note the above wiring diagram is for a 2013, and it appears that in later models, (such as 2014-2018) the switch behavior is altered in the EVIC, NOT by fuses (See Page 9 of the 2017 schematic http://www.rambodybuilder.com/2017/docs/cc/dddpufwii.pdf). In this regard, older model Gen 4's should be able to upfit to the Aux switches much easier, I'd think, and I'd imagine, with NO flash necessary!!! (Since latching, etc is controlled by the physical wiring/fusing, which you can manipulate to some degree - see the small box on the left lower of the schematic)

In short, 2013 and below, the two PINK wires run back to the PDC to control Bank 1 (Switches 1, 2) and Bank 2 (Switches 3, 4) which, depending on the 5A fuse placement in the PDC, governs how Aux 1 and 2 behave.
In 2014+, the RD/OR/BK wires talk to the CANBUS to manipulate switch behavior via the EVIC.

5. We can purchase the upfitter block which we can bolt right behind the driver's side battery.
(P/N 68243265AD OR Kit with wiring, 68049500AB and bracket 68044763AB, check year for fitment, based on the info in #4 above - we probably need someone to research this)

6. We can (presumably) flash these trucks to enable the Commercial settings in the dash/EVIC. (Sales code(s) LHLP/LHL), (2014+ ?)

7. There will be some additional pieces to purchase, I'm sure, but this appears to be the bulk of it.

8. You can order the bag of wires that comes with upfitter package, too, so the connections to grey harnesses are water tight.
(P/N P68209998AB)


So, this is what I have so far, but I think it's a more comprehensive view than I've seen anywhere before, at least all in one place, that's for sure.

I am hoping I can get some help here so we can make a painless retrofit a reality!!

Can I get some help in putting our heads together on this?


What I think we need to know:
A. #2 above - can anyone WITH the AUX switches look in their footwell and snap a pic of the harness to see if it's a piggy back or integral harness that carries the wiring underhood?

B. As part of that SAME harness, and based on the 2014+ wiring diagram, can we can see if wires A998.ZG (RD), Z907 (BK), A998.LC (RD), A998.LA (RD) and F940 (PK/YL) which go underhood from the cabin are present on the same harness, I211?

C. My personal thought is that on 2014+ trucks, if the RD (A938) and OR (D401) wires are present on the AUX Switch Pod, that the EVIC is actually flashing/setting the switch(es) itself to latch/remember position/etc. Which means if those wires are NOT present then communication from the EVIC to the switches is NOT likely possible. Can anyone look on their switch to see if there is a RD and OR wire?
I am encouraged by this photo (https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/2013-general-discussion/1460554-auxiliary-switches-successfully-added-2014-tradesman-14.html#post25963898) which shows UofAWilly_B's 2014 connector which has, off to the right, RED, ORANGE and BLACK, which presumably are our power and signal wires to the ECU! With a flash (see #6 above, which can now be done via app, as I'm reading -- (https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/2013-general-discussion/1460554-auxiliary-switches-successfully-added-2014-tradesman-17.html#post28736359)

D. Anyone able to research #5 above to get us a P/N and/or better diagram of what comes in the PDC parts/kits?

E. Can anyone take a look at their auxiliary switch PDC under the hood and show us what the connector from the truck to the PDC looks like?

Anyway, it's late (early?) and I'm sure I'll have to edit this for content later, but I'm excited to have found out what I have so far.

Thanks for your collective help. I think it is possible. And at worst, 2014+ trucks should be able to setup a 2013 and below setup with the underhood PDC if it turns out the EVIC method is impossible.

-N

PS - I've ignored the PTO stuff when it substitutes for AUX5, but if we can get through the above, I think we can figure that out, too, if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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Sub’d. Looking to see where this thread goes. Looking to do this to my 17 Ram. I’m like you and love the clean look of the switches.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sub’d. Looking to see where this thread goes. Looking to do this to my 17 Ram. I’m like you and love the clean look of the switches.
Right now I'm working on seeing if we can armchair program these in, and I think you may be able to, but somewhere I read that '18's added another level of protection on the ECU, so I'm not sure I'll be able to do it without a dealer flash.

I'm actually leaning toward those orange/red/black wires being communication for the whole switch bank, but I haven't taken the dash apart to see if there are two harnesses or one going in there, as it's referred to as "top" (or similar) on the schematic.

The biggest downside is cost, but the smooth integration is worth it in my mind. I think the '13 model will retrofit easily (I'm making some assumptions) but since it uses the same type of switch bank, and all the relay control is self contained, I should think it would be relatively painless.

Have you taken a look at the material and come up with anything to offer to the discussion?

-N
 

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While I appreciate the sentiment, it runs completely counter to the title of the thread and the underlying reason for the post. I don't like the aftermarket look, and if I can have the flexibility of the integration, that's what I'm after.

-N
It looks factory but to each their own lol
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It looks factory but to each their own lol
I hear ya. If there were no choice, I'd do the Frankenstein retrofit to the stock aux panel, and failing that I'd go your route. But, here to have the flexibility of latching/memorized state/power source and so forth from the EVIC is worth the effort alone, to say nothing of the lack of having to run wires, cut up the interior, etc.

I've gone your route before. Would rather keep it OEM here. Besides, I need to keep the headliner open for when I put the pull rope for the airhorn. :wink2: (JK)

-N
 

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Sub’d. Looking to see where this thread goes. Looking to do this to my 17 Ram. I’m like you and love the clean look of the switches.
Right now I'm working on seeing if we can armchair program these in, and I think you may be able to, but somewhere I read that '18's added another level of protection on the ECU, so I'm not sure I'll be able to do it without a dealer flash.

I'm actually leaning toward those orange/red/black wires being communication for the whole switch bank, but I haven't taken the dash apart to see if there are two harnesses or one going in there, as it's referred to as "top" (or similar) on the schematic.

The biggest downside is cost, but the smooth integration is worth it in my mind. I think the '13 model will retrofit easily (I'm making some assumptions) but since it uses the same type of switch bank, and all the relay control is self contained, I should think it would be relatively painless.

Have you taken a look at the material and come up with anything to offer to the discussion?

-N
I haven’t done much with figuring this out other than finding a truck with the same top row functions.

I am like you and need to pull the dash apart and see how everything works.

This will probably be a winter project as I have more time I’m on my hands during that time.
 

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I am subscribing to this as well. I have a 2013 so I am VERY interested....

--Travo
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If you want to do factory aux switches the easy way check this out...
Awesome find!! I've been in touch with this seller and am finding out more information.

It still isn't a true OEM retrofit, (the relay box and wiring are not the same) but it will answer many of the questions, including the 2018 security issue, which is addressable, and I hope to learn more along the way.

Stay tuned, I'll be ordering one of these kits and tearing into this soon, and will report back here.

-N
 

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Does anyone know for certain that these parts are the actual upfitter fuse block under the hood?

5. We can purchase the upfitter block which we can bolt right behind the driver's side battery.
(P/N 68243265AD OR Kit with wiring, 68049500AB and bracket 68044763AB, check year for fitment, based on the info in #4 above - we probably need someone to research this)

This is the box I'm talking about:
 

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Does anyone know for certain that these parts are the actual upfitter fuse block under the hood?




This is the box I'm talking about:
68049500AB is the auxiliary wiring kit only
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-wiring-auxiliary-power-distributio-68049500ab

68243265AD is the main Power Distribution Center (formerly known as the TIPM) for the entire truck.
https://www.mymoparparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-fuse-and-relay-box-68243265ad

68044763AB is the bracket for the PDC

Here is a diagram of all the parts to the aux PDC.
https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts-list/2015-ram-2500/electrical-auxiliary-integral-pdc.html
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update and conclusion?

So, after looking at the options, and weighing the OEM fitment issues, this is what I came up with, and how I proceeded. Most of my research was confirmed in doing the installation. While it wasn't a 100% "OEM" install, it was very close, and by appearances, indistinguishable in function, in interior appearance, and nearly in overall appearance.

From everything I can tell the aux switches are actually pretty simple. There are only 2 main components, 1) The switch bank, and 2) the relay box. The third component, the EVIC, is not used in day-to-day operation, only for programming. The relay box hooks straight to the battery, and your devices will be grounded, so there isn't really much to it.

Based on a few things, we can determine that my initial hunch that the EVIC programming is done to the switch itself, and not the BCM, is likely accurate. Reason being, when you plug in your new switch panel, it defaults to the Aux 1 and 2 being "always available" and 3-5 being "with the ignition" - and that's with no flash being done. Also they work as soon as you put power to the panel, no further modification needed - the switches turn on each of the 5 pins out , simple as that. You can (and should) flash the truck to enable the programming option in the EVIC, but all the EVIC is doing is programming the switch to respond to three things -- ignition, state memory, and latching. If the BCM was responsible for signaling the relay, why would FCA run wires back to the switches and then out to the relays? Not likely, I'd think.

As mentioned, and now confirmed, if you look at the rear of the panel, there are three wires: a positive, a negative, and presumably a "signal." The remaining 5 wires (which do match the colors previously mentioned as I discovered when I pulled my dash out) are simply leads going to the relay box, and the wiring is present from the switches.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Jp14xd7YgxZKLwDt7

The issue arises in getting the proper harnesses, plugs, etc. in and to the engine bay. There are two options here to consider - how to get through the firewall, and what to do on the other side.

First, note that in my passenger kick panel, wires do match the ones connected to the switch bank, but they aren't pinned on the other side of the harness.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/L7nkTzGrFWQMXbTn9

So, to proceed, you have two choices - pin those on the other side and carry the signals through the firewall to the relay box, or just run your own wire direct from the switch. Either way, you're running wire, there's no apparent getting around that. Second, once you get to the engine bay, you can cobble together the parts for the relay box, etc., or just put your own relays there. As you'll see, I ended up just running new wire and using a non-FCA relay box.

I elected to get the kit mentioned earlier in the thread, and found here: https://www.facebook.com/326956664462380/photos/a.326957001129013/326956991129014/?type=3&theater The guy who runs the show is very courteous, reasonably quick, and can easily take the guesswork out of finding your switch panel (mine is especially rare, and all the VIN searching in the world couldn't find a similar truck -- (diesel, manual, front/rear parksense, off road package), so I went his route, rather than have a bunch of unused buttons. His kit essentially splices between the factory wiring at the switch, and shoots out a new set of 5 wires to the relay box he builds. The box is of reasonable quality, and none of the non-OEM components are visible to anyone but someone looking for it, and the inside installation is perfect. Flash the EVIC with AlfaOBD, and you now have the exact functionality of the OEM option. The only difference is under the hood, really. I ziptied the box to the factory mount point, so there is no irreversible damage done, not even screw holes. There's an open grommet for passing the wire through, so the install is a breeze. The longest time was taken with me finding a good spot to secure the box and make it look integrated. Once the battery is back in the box, you can't see the zip ties, and the box looks pretty stock, TBH.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/yfyNZVcU8Fg7PrgN8

Hopefully this makes sense. It wouldn't be unthinkable to also use the 5 wires run to simply use the OEM relay box as well, but it wasn't worth the added expense at the moment, especially when you see the end result of my build.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/naDjsb3zfoLUVggD7

I recognize this may be a little confusing, and it's late, so I may revise it later. Please ask any questions you may have. The entire setup cost about $275 and an hour or two of your time.

REMINDER: This is only for the most recent 4th gen HDs; the kit mentioned will work with any model (1500s, too) but the wiring, etc. I mention above only applies to the HDs, I believe.

-N

NOTE:
I can't seem to upload images atm, so I'm posting the reply and will try to figure out the image issue... in the meantime I put links...
 

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Video i found on U tube that helped with the programming using the Alfa Obd this thing is the best 49.00 buck plus the 69 i spent on the mx obd bt reader .
https://youtu.be/2fNO_i4UQ5Y
 

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Bringing this back from the dead.
Trying to get the correct part number for my switch bank With Aux switches. I currently have the traction control, tow/haul, exhaust brake and fr and RR park sense on top. I tried to figure it out but there are so many options and I can't find one that fits this exactly. Any help would be appreciated.

911217
 
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