Adding Aux input to RBQ radio (in-dash 6 disc) with satellite radio installed
OK, this is the way to get an aux input for next to nothing if you have satellite radio and an in-dash 6 disc radio. If your radio is satellite capable but does not have the receiver installed then I am currently trying to figure out another way. The way to know if this exact procedure will work for you, is to push the mode button like you are switching between radio and cd, if you see a satellite radio mode, then this method will work for you. If you are a current subscriber, then this method will also let your satellite radio work as normal til you plug an input source into the jack.
Supplies:
All you really need to complete this is some thin wire, 5 strands as long as you need to locate your jack where you would like. You will also need a headphone jack, preferably one like Radio Shack part# 274-0246 so that you can retain your satellite radio functionality. Other than that just some solder and a soldering iron. I spent $3.00 including tax, but I already had plenty of wire and solder.
Procedure:
The first thing I did was check the manual for the wires I needed to splice into. My truck is an 04.5, and I used the manual for an 05 to find the correct wires. When I used the 04 manual, my wire colors did not match up, but when checking the 05 manual, the pin-out was the same for both years, although they had different colored wires. So I would assume that even though some may have different colored wires the location of the wires you need is the same.
To remove the radio from the dash you must first remove the panel below the steering wheel. It has two screws at the very bottom at opposite ends. Once you remove those screws, just pry the panel down and away from the rest of the dash.
With that panel removed you can now carefully pry the radio bezel out by working your way around it with your fingers or a plastic pry tool. To make things simpler, just leave all the wires attached to the bezel and let it rest out of your way. Radio removal is now achieved by removing the 4 screws around the radio and then sliding the radio out.
I didn't bother taking the radio completely out, I only pulled it out far enough, so that I could get the 10 pin connector out of the back of the radio. It is near the center of the radio and is removed by squeezing in on the clip on the bottom of it and then pulling it straight out.
Now with the connector loose from the radio, you can look at the above diagram and tell which 3 wires you need. 1, 2, and 6, All three wires were green, the common ground was solid green, and the left and right audio had a white and red stripe respectively.
To wire this up to retain the use of your satellite radio you are going to need to totally cut wires 1 and 6, but leave yourself enough room to work with. I unwrapped the tape over the wires back to the shielding to give myself more room to work. The number 2 wire just needs some of the covering removed to allow you to solder a piece of wire to it, it doesn't need to be cut.
Using the headphone jack from radio shack you are going to solder a wire to terminal #1 and connect it to wire #2 Common Ground (10 pin connector). Then solder a wire to terminal #2 and connect it to #1 wire (right audio), on the connect side of the wire that you cut. Next solder a wire to terminal #3 on the head phone jack and connect this to the other side of lead #1 (right audio). Terminal #4 on the headphone jack gets a wire soldered onto it and then connected to lead #6 (left audio), on the side of the wire you cut opposite the connecter-side. Terminal #5 will get a wire soldered to it and then connected to the other side (connector side) of lead #6 (audio left) from the 10 pin connector.
I soldered all connections to make sure that I am not having to pull my dash apart all the time to fix connection issues. Once I had all the connections taped up, I plugged the connector back into the radio and tested the function. I worked exactly as I had planned so I proceeded to button everything back up.
I mounted my head phone jack down by the 12v lighter output at the bottom part of the dash , because I didn't want to drill any holes where it would be seen, but you can mount it wherever you want. I will mention that the little panel mount jack is not long enough to reach all the way through the plastic. To remedy this, I drilled a hole big enough for the jack to fit through and then took a drill bill slightly bigger than the little mounting nut on the jack and carefully cut a little inset around the hole for the nut to fit into.
If you are really carefully and clean the edges really good, you can make it look like a factory option. I haven't went back and de-burred the edge of the hole yet, but I think it looks pretty good. After seeing these pictures, I can tell I really need to clean down there