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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Poked through the first few pages and couldn't find anything (found a similar thread). If there is a good thread on this, by all means point me to it.

Took the truck to Dinner last night and no problems. Woke up this morning to head to work and the truck, while easing into the gas would take 1st higher then it normally does (think about 2600?) and I could tell it was well past it's shift point. Then the truck would slam into the next gear with some serious Tq behind it. I'm not 100% sure if it was skipping 2nd and going right to 3rd or if the hang and higher revs wear just shifting to a higher RPM pint in 2nd.

Anyway Mechanically the truck still feals great. it's got about 70k on it with near zero serious trans work (towing, plowing ect). It's basically a commuter truck for me. I have a predator on the eco tune and a extreme puck dialed to zero, I have turned the puck up and gassed it a few times but I could probably count on 2 hands the amount of times.

I'm not a big Auto savy guy but it feels like it's the valve body not causing the shift right or maybe if there is a solenoid or something that feeds the signal to the valve body electronically. Basically to me it dosent feel like a mechanical problem but more a hydrolic/electrical issue.

Normally I would spend a few days poking through the forums and searching out the problem but I had to make this post as a ditch effort as this is a little more crucial time wise since my wifes due date is this saturday for our first kid. Thanks for any help you guys can toss my way.
 

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#1, have you changed the fluid in a while? Checked it?

Did it just start doing this?

The first thing that comes to mind is the pressure transducer and/or the governor solenoid. You buy these as a pair. Check here:

48RE HD PRESSURE SOLENOID & SENSOR KIT BORG 2000 UP | eBay

Also, while you're going in, you may want to think about a Transgo shift kit.
Transgo SK®48RE 03-06 48RE A518 A618 HO V10 DodgeDiesel | eBay

Lastly, when you do the kit and sensors, adjust the bands as the directions say. You will need an inch/lbs torque wrench to do this the right way.

I hope this helps. This is where I would look first. Also, you want to do a flush on it just before you drop the pan. Like this:
http://www.lubegard.com/images/item5_box2.jpg
LUBEGARD Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant

Personally, I like a little of the red stuff in my fluid. I use about half of a container with my ATF+4.

Good luck!
 
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I'm almost gonna bet the farm that the 2nd gear band is out of adjustment or plain wore out, adjust it and see what happens. last truck I worked on shifted exactly as yoy describe, almost like it skipped 2nd and went into 3rd, it was seriously out of adjustment, it was in a courior truck that was coupled to a gooseneck trl,about a yr later the tranny did get rebuilt.

you can easily crawl under the truck and check the adjustment, and be done in 5mins or less
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks big time for the help guys. I forgot to menchin the truck was throwing the check engine light, but the Diablo was showing no codes (duno if the diable just couldn't read the code). Also at the end of the day when I fired it up to drive home it shifted fine, then when I headed to work this morning, not only was it fine but the light went out.

Thanks again, I'll jump under and check the bands tonight and this week look into getting the stuff to swap out the transducer/governor. And at under 200 total I'll just do the shift kit with it.

Thanks again for the help guys. I'll check back in with any updates.
 

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Does it feel low on power? The erratic shifting coupled with the code almost leads me to believe the TV motor. Although when I've had it (more times than I want to admit) it felt real doggy. Somehow the plug got screwed up on one of the 5 or 6 times the trans has been out :)doh:) and doesn't fully lock all the time.
 

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Does anyone know where to find the instructions on adjusting the bands? My transmission is starting to slip pretty good and was hoping to extend it's life some before rebuilding by doing an adjustment. I changed the transmission oil in it and put some additive in but didn't notice any difference now when I pull the dip stick the oil looks clean but smells burnt. Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated. It's an 05 with the 48RE don't really run it hard and bought it about 3 months ago with about 95k on it. I have a Smarty installed but it's only on the 60hp tune.
 

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You're gonna be pissed because you have to drop the pan again for the bands inside the tranny. One adjustment is inside, the other is outside.

Search around in the posts and you will find the directions. You MUST have an inch/lb torque wrench.
 

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Egh live and learn, do you think if the bands were out of adjustment it could be causing that burnt oil smell? Last time when I did change the fluid it was pretty dirty but there wasn't too much metal shavings on the magnet. I'm just hoping to get another 6months to a year out of the transmission before I upgrade it.
 

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You're gonna be pissed because you have to drop the pan again for the bands inside the tranny. One adjustment is inside, the other is outside.

Search around in the posts and you will find the directions. You MUST have an inch/lb torque wrench.
Yep! I didn't adjust the bands the last time I changed the fluid and have been kicking myself ever since. I was going to drop the pan and do it today but with rain and no garage to do it in...it will have to wait.
 

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Egh live and learn, do you think if the bands were out of adjustment it could be causing that burnt oil smell? Last time when I did change the fluid it was pretty dirty but there wasn't too much metal shavings on the magnet. I'm just hoping to get another 6months to a year out of the transmission before I upgrade it.
Did you just drop the pan and replace what was drained or did you do a system flush? If just dropping the pan you only drained less than 50% of the dirty fluid. You would still have that much dirty fluid in the case.
 

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I just dropped the pan and replaced what was drained, when I do it again it'll be a full flush, which may explain the burnt smell. So adjusting the bands is as easy as just correcting the inch/lb torque levels? I'm not too familiar with automatic transmissions yet. It seems like only 2nd-3rd has the slipping issue as well.
 

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I found this on one of the other forums for band adjustment; does this sound about right? See below:

The front band is external to the tranny, and IMHO a little harder to get to (if you're dropping the pan anyway):


ADJUSTMENT - BANDS
FRONT BAND
The front (kickdown) band adjusting screw is
located on the left side of the transmission case
above the manual valve and throttle valve levers.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Loosen band adjusting screw locknut (Fig. 74).
Then back locknut off 3-5 turns. Be sure adjusting
screw turns freely in case. Apply lubricant to screw
threads if necessary.
(3) Tighten band adjusting screw to 8 N·m (72 in.
lbs.) torque with Inch Pound Torque Wrench
C-3380-A, a 3-in. extension and an appropriate
Torx™ socket.
CAUTION: If Adapter C-3705 is needed to reach the
adjusting screw, tighten the screw to only 5 N·m
(47-50 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) Back off front band adjusting screw 1-3/4 turns.
(5) Hold adjuster screw in position and tighten
locknut to 41 N·m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(6) Lower vehicle.

The Rear Band is inside:

REAR BAND
The transmission oil pan must be removed for
access to the rear band adjusting screw.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Remove transmission oil pan and drain fluid.
(3) Loosen band adjusting screw locknut 5-6 turns.
Be sure adjusting screw turns freely in lever.
(4) Tighten adjusting screw to 8 N·m (72 in. lbs.)
torque (Fig. 75).
(5) Back off adjusting screw 3 turns.
(6) Hold adjusting screw in place and tighten locknut
to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Position new gasket on oil pan and install pan
on transmission. Tighten pan bolts to 17 N·m (13 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(8) Lower vehicle and refill transmission with
Mopart ATF +4, Automatic Transmission fluid.
 

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That looks right. Google it and you can find the images which will be helpful too. If the bands are slipping, then they WILL cause the burnt smell and put crap in your fluid. Find the pics and they will be much more helpful.

Have you ever done the solenoids/sensors? It's a good thing to do when you're in there. Can't remember if you had or not...
 

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No I have not yet done the solenoids/sensors. When I drop the pan again I will end up doing those and probably add a deep transmission pan as well, and do a fluid flush, as well as adjust the bands inside, hopefully then I can get it shifting perfectly and get another year out of it before a rebuild. I was able to find a picture of where the adjustments are for the bands inside the pan and on the outside of the transmission, doesn't look to bad. Thanks for all the help.
 

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Nope. An inch/lb torque wrench is preferable but you mainly need a ton of rags and about a case of ATF+4. To do the sensors, you have to drop the valve body. When you drop the VB, more atf fluid than you thought existed will come out and make a helluva mess - lol. It's real simple to do. Just takes time and rags. When I put mine back in, I use the torque wrench for my VB bolts because I don't trust myself with small bolts...
 
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