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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone im new to the forum.



I live in Australia where these trucks are far from common compared to the states.

I've had my 2003 f250 extra cab for about 1.5 years and love it. Plenty of room for the kids and with the massive tray great for loading big loads of firewood etc.


The problem is the ute has a mwm sprint 4.2l diesel turbo aftercooled and it looks like after chasing the intermittent over heating problem the head gasket and most likely head is buggered. Now if a full build is in on the cards i've been roughly quoted 10+ thousand and then im still left with the little I6.EDIT;- TURNS OUT THE ENGINE NEVER HAD A FAILURE FROM ITSELF,IT WAS HUMAN ERROR. WHOEVER BUILT IT BEFOREM I PURCHASED IT LEFT NUMBER 6 LINER HIGHER THAN THE REST AND IT KEEPS BREAKING THE FIRE RING ON THE HEADGASKET. OVERHEATING HAS CAUSED THE PISTON TO CRACK ALSO. I WILL GET A TONNE OF PICS ONCE ITS HOME FROM MECHANIC



Not everyone agrees with the 6bt 12v p pump swap but im going to do it anyway as i dont want the 7.3l powerstroke problems as well and the 6bt is awesome and easy to get the 300hp-350HP AND 800NM at the treads im chasing.

Im going to be using the zf6 speed from a 7.3PS with dodge nv5600 flywheel and 13'' powerstroke clutch. Ive got the zf5 speed out of my f250 and has the np273 trans case so ill change the input shaft to the 7.3 one and itll bolt right up to the zf6 then.

Ive been looking at destroked conversion parts but after reading FORD12V thread there are other options i could look at.

I wanna keep it simple and reliable is the key. i wanna use the ute for 10+ years. So anyone with tips on keeping these 12v running for a long time please chime in and tell what i should do before i install the engine. so far i was thinking!

*KDP TAP
* SUMP GASKET
*REAR MAIN SEAL
*FRONT CRANK SEAL
*FSS MANUAL ADAPTER(who makes these to buy)
*NEW 3 PIECE EXHAUST MANIFOLD
ATS 2049302164
*ITLL have custom gauges to monitor it-egt
water temp
boost
oil pressure
Anything else a must in these engines for longevity?

Any how looks like a good forum and look forward to hearing everyone'comments and experiences.



regards Kane
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I will post plenty of pictures of the old engine as it comes out as i know most you Americans have not heard of the 4.2 I6 that im ripping out. The ute has the old clear coat peel and was due for respray early next year but his engine swap is set me back prob 10-12k so itll be year after now.

Anymore Aussies on the page??
 

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You'll want to replace the side tappet cover gasket and adjust the valves while it's out.

When I went with the manual cable FSS on my Blazer build I just made my own mount at the IP using the Factory FSS mount.

There wasn't anything in your link about the flywheel, I'd say to buy a zf6 conversion flywheel where ever you are buying the adapter. I bought my adapter, flywheel, and clutch from DCS for my zf5 in my 96 F350 conversion.
 

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The 12V motors are darn near indestructible, so really as long as your keep up with your regular maintenance you should be good for many years.....probably outlive your F250. ;) Not sure on teh P-Pump motors but teh VE pump 12V have the timing case bolts loosen so perhaps check them, but the KDP is always good insurance. Front and rear crank seals is also wise. Maybe re-seal the vacuum/PS pump while you have it off, and perhaps upgrading your braking system to hydroboost would be a good idea at the time....unless it already has it. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You'll want to replace the side tappet cover gasket and adjust the valves while it's out.

When I went with the manual cable FSS on my Blazer build I just made my own mount at the IP using the Factory FSS mount.

There wasn't anything in your link about the flywheel, I'd say to buy a zf6 conversion flywheel where ever you are buying the adapter. I bought my adapter, flywheel, and clutch from DCS for my zf5 in my 96 F350 conversion.
Ok once i get the engine on the stand i will look into making my wmown as well. Is quiet common for the FSS to fail or is it mainly just for piece of mind you all put the manual shut off in?

Im looking getting parts from destroked but so far they have not been very helpful with replies. So i might email dcs and sort stuff out with rhem! I was thinking of getting sourhbend clutch but its just another thing ill have to get posted from the states and postage will add up quickly
 

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The FSS is electrically controlled so if you have a electrical problem then your shut down, with a pull cable it's fail proof and theft proof if hidden like mine.

The P-pump FSS if it fails you can just tie it up so you can keep running.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The 12V motors are darn near indestructible, so really as long as your keep up with your regular maintenance you should be good for many years.....probably outlive your F250. ;) Not sure on teh P-Pump motors but teh VE pump 12V have the timing case bolts loosen so perhaps check them, but the KDP is always good insurance. Front and rear crank seals is also wise. Maybe re-seal the vacuum/PS pump while you have it off, and perhaps upgrading your braking system to hydroboost would be a good idea at the time....unless it already has it. ;)
Yeah thasmts what ive been reading on these engines. Crazy how steong the head bolts are as well ive read. Re torque to 150ft pound and they will hold 80psi or something i read.

I dont dont think ive got hydro boost setup! Is it much to swap it over? And is it worth while
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The FSS is electrically controlled so if you have a electrical problem then your shut down, with a pull cable it's fail proof and theft proof if hidden like mine.

The P-pump FSS if it fails you can just tie it up so you can keep running.[/QUOTE

Alright sounds like a fail safe thing 2 do thats for sure . I was more worried it could run on etc.

I was also wondering if using my alternator would be the go as the tacho reads of the back of the alternator. Single wire pushed on with clip! Very easy
 

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From some of your photos on the ford forum it looks like you may already have hydra-boost brakes.
Interesting about you alternator and tach drive, it appears to be completely different from our US models, a better photo of the alternator would help.
The failure rate of the FSS is rare, I prefer to run one, if it does fail you simply unhook it and tie the arm up to get the engine going again.

Welcome to this forum, lots good info here on 12v Cummins engines along with a little BS.

It's hard to talk to the folk at Destroked but I do like their stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
From some of your photos on the ford forum it looks like you may already have hydra-boost brakes.
Interesting about you alternator and tach drive, it appears to be completely different from our US models, a better photo of the alternator would help.
The failure rate of the FSS is rare, I prefer to run one, if it does fail you simply unhook it and tie the arm up to get the engine going again.

Welcome to this forum, lots good info here on 12v Cummins engines along with a little BS.

It's hard to talk to the folk at Destroked but I do like their stuff.
yeah those threads you linked me to the other day opened my eyes alot and made my ind up on few things indeed. def going the zf6. with the stock manifolds would it be worth taking it off and getting it machined flat again. i read somewhere they can warp and if ya tighten them down whilst warped it can have adverese effects on the head and cause problems.

i get the ute back wed at this stage and ill take a tone of photos for use.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Found my local f series parts dealer in Melbourne that I am getting the zf6 speed from also stocks zf6 flywheels and southbend clutch kits. So can use confirm the 7.3 zf6 flywheel is the one i need. 13''. He also sells 6.0litre ps starters so ill grab one of them also.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Also i had 99% hooked up my electric lift pump for the previous engine its a holley red 7-10psi pump. Will this be ok for the 5.9 p-pump....
 

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7.3 flywheel will not work, but if he sells South Bend kits he can get you the conversion kit that has a Cummins flywheel set up to work with the ZF6.
Biggest problem with the manifolds is over time they shrink to a point they break the mounting bolts or you can't get them back in, a stock replacement will be fine for your power needs, the one in the link I left you is the best deal I could find, wish it had been available before I gave big money for mine.

Not many 12v guys care for electric fuel pumps, 12v p pump runs at 25+ psi fuel pressure, the stock mechanical pumps on 12v's are pretty reliable and can be improved for little cost.
My experience is the stock Ford fuel lines are to small to supply enough fuel to the Cummins p pump, I upgraded my fuel lines to a larger size.
Here's a link to lots of reading about the fuel system.

https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-performance-parts-discussion/2135929-fuel-system-resource-sticky.html
 

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Discussion Starter #16
7.3 flywheel will not work, but if he sells South Bend kits he can get you the conversion kit that has a Cummins flywheel set up to work with the ZF6.
Biggest problem with the manifolds is over time they shrink to a point they break the mounting bolts or you can't get them back in, a stock replacement will be fine for your power needs, the one in the link I left you is the best deal I could find, wish it had been available before I gave big money for mine.

Not many 12v guys care for electric fuel pumps, 12v p pump runs at 25+ psi fuel pressure, the stock mechanical pumps on 12v's are pretty reliable and can be improved for little cost.
My experience is the stock Ford fuel lines are to small to supply enough fuel to the Cummins p pump, I upgraded my fuel lines to a larger size.
Here's a link to lots of reading about the fuel system.

https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-performance-parts-discussion/2135929-fuel-system-resource-sticky.html
Ok stock replacement it is or if mg mates keen ill get him to make me a steam pipe manifold.

Ill ring brian snd ask anout the south bend complete kit then.

Ill have a read through rhe thread thanks destroked.
 

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Going Hydro-boost is well worth the effort, the difference in braking is night and day over the vacuum system. I converted my crewcab to HB braking a couple years ago and think it is one of the best upgrades I have ever done to the truck to make it more reliable and safe to drive. With the old Vacuum braking I could literally stand on the brake pedal in an emergency stop and it would not lock up the front brakes (happened and very scary!), but after the HB conversion just a firm to hard pressure on the brake pedal has the brakes locking up.

If your brake master cylinder is attached to something like this then you have HB....

 

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Discussion Starter #18
Argh i see i will go get the ute this weekend and ill have a look at it see what its actually running. I got a feeling its vacuum but.

Picked up an engine. Its a little more than i wanted to pay vut the bloke has already done new sump gasket,tappet gaskets, and i has btand new fuel pump and also suplies kdp and front and rear crank seals with rhe price. Its a manual 215hp engine if that makes any difference
 
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