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Auction purchase. Service recommendations?

530 Views 19 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  BFD, 
Pipelayin
2
Hello forum I am a new member with my first diesel powered truck. I have a daily so this Will be used for the weekend cruising and towing racecars to the track acouple times a year. Had purchased through Carmax auctions under wholesale price so it was a good priced buy. This has 124k miles but I have no service records or any information on the truck. The only thing I have an issue with is the alignment. It pulls to the right and the only tire with cupping ware is the front passenger. I’m wondering if it’s any ball joints or tie rods. I usually work on cars so know nothing about the suspension geometry of this truck. I will be taking it to a local shop to do a pre buy inspection as I have 7 days to return. Just incase it’s something catastrophic. But in my eyes it doesn’t seem too bad. I would like to know what’s recommended as I have no records of the truck. It has a gooseneck attachment in the bed so kind of worries me about how much it has been towed with the 68rfe. I will be putting new tires and alignment as well as front/rear differential fluid. Tranny fluid, oil change and fuel filter. The serpentine belt looks like it should be changed. And per service manual it’s 100k so might as well do that but doesn’t seem like any leaks on the engine besides transmission oil pan. Everything on the truck is functional as far as exhaust break and 4wd. Any recommendations?

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Lins
Change all fluids. If/when suspension is good, have it aligned to Thuren specs - easy to find with google.
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j98
The inside of that pipe looks mighty black, is the DPF still in place?
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W
j98 said:
The inside of that pipe looks mighty black, is the DPF still in place?
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I noticed that too, and I wonder if that’s why it ended up at auction? I’d be very skeptical buying something with “missing parts” these days. Especially if the OP lives in Cali!
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Pipelayin
WhiskeyThrottle said:
I noticed that too, and I wonder if that’s why it ended up at auction? I’d be very skeptical buying something with “missing parts” these days. Especially if the OP lives in Cali!
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Dpf is in place. Passed smog with no issues. Doesn’t blow soot unless I’m really on the pedal. And to justify the auction thing. Carmax trade ins over 100k or too old go straight to wholesale.
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j98
Pipelayin said:
Dpf is in place. Passed smog with no issues. Doesn’t blow soot unless I’m really on the pedal. And to justify the auction thing. Carmax trade ins over 100k or too old go straight to wholesale.
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I would be unplugging certain components to see if it continues to run... if you know what I mean.
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Lins
Pipelayin said:
Dpf is in place. Passed smog with no issues. Doesn’t blow soot unless I’m really on the pedal. And to justify the auction thing. Carmax trade ins over 100k or too old go straight to wholesale.
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An intact DPF will never blow black. If it passed that’s all that matters
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j98
Lins said:
An intact DPF will never blow back. If it passed that’s all that matters
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.... until it plugs.
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Lins
j98 said:
.... until it plugs.
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Can’t plug a hollowed out dpf
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Pipelayin
Lins said:
Can’t plug a hollowed out dpf
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Un plug what?, and what does dpf blow back mean?
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cumminsturbofreak
I think he meant blow black.

A 2010 shouldn’t smoke at all unless it was stealth deleted. And if it is, I’m surprised it passed smog.
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j98
cumminsturbofreak said:
I think he meant blow black.

A 2010 shouldn’t smoke at all unless it was stealth deleted. And if it is, I’m surprised it passed smog.
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I was thinking along the lines that someone possibly re-installed the DPF without flashing the truck back to stock. Even a stealth delete is noticeably louder then stock.
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Lins
cumminsturbofreak said:
I think he meant blow black.

A 2010 shouldn’t smoke at all unless it was stealth deleted. And if it is, I’m surprised it passed smog.
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Yes, corrected.
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Pipelayin
Definitely blows soot if I’m on it and when engaging exhaust brake going downhill at hwy speeds
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BFD
I bought my 12 with 117 K miles on it and in the next 20,000 miles I’ve had to do most of the relatively inexpensive repairs but luckily no engine or transmission work needed. I changed every fluid in the truck first of all and then the VGT out. Then hub/bearings, brakes, ball joints, all 5 u joints, steering stabilizer, track bar bushings, inner axle seals, radiator cleaning, thermostat, radio, replacing noisy bearings in the front idlers on the engine, serpentine belt, driveshaft carrier bearing and lastly, rear wheel seals and P brake shoes just a week ago. None of the parts were terribly expensive and I did all the work.
Plan on fixing a lot of the smaller things and hopefully the major things will be ok.
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Pipelayin
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Took it down to a local shop for a purchase inspection. These are what they recommended needs to be done.

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Pipelayin
It did have a P2002. But it’s a pending code. So not actually lighting on the dash so they said wait till it comes on to do further diagnosis. Any thoughts?
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BFD
Interesting... Maxlife instead of Mopar ATF4. But FWIW, Maxlife is doing fine in my Hyundai. It's nice they didn't find very much wrong!
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Pipelayin
BFD said:
Interesting... Maxlife instead of Mopar ATF4. But FWIW, Maxlife is doing fine in my Hyundai. It's nice they didn't find very much wrong!
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Anything on the tie rod ends? I was gonna do Napa
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BFD
I replaced my loose ball joints and adjusted the steering box but all the tie rod ends were fine. I usually order everything online but I used NAPA for the driveshaft carrier bearing, rear wheel seals, and P brake shoes, because I wanted to see those parts before purchasing, to be sure they were right.
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