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Today I received my ARP 425 Headstuds in the mail. Im sick of babying my truck and I want to get these things on ASAP. Im gonna do it without removing the head because my headgasket is fine (one bolt out, one stud in at a time method). There is supposed to 6 long studs for the exhaust manifold side and 20 shorter studs for under the valve cover. Well in my box I have 7 studs that are the longer exhaust manifold length and 19 that are the shorter length for the studs that go in the valve cover:doh: (should be 6 long studs, 20 short studs). Since they are all the same size other than length, can i just throw that extra 7th longer stud under the valve cover and be fine? Or do I have to wait longer and send these back to XDP and wait to get ones with the correct number of bolts.

Im guessing it will just be fine to use that 7th longer stud under the valve cover, as long as it clears rocker arms and such.

I got lucky with some 55psi high boost runs on stock headbolts (not sure how I pulled that off, but I did) but dont wanna take another chance lol
 

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personally id call ARP and ask WTF. also make sure you do the retorque..... many many guys have poped a "good" headgasket right after swaping to studs..... personally id just replace the gasket and know its good.....
Why do HG's go after installing studs? Is it the re torque sequence that causes this issue?

I' am also about to install studs on my rig as well, and definitely do not want to deal with a HG issue after spending $800 for a stud installation.
 

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you can do them yourself, its not hard, but essentially you remove a bolt, install stud, bottomed and backed out 1 turn, install washer and nut with ARP lube, torque it in stages to the 135(?) ft-lbs, then install the rest. get it to operating temp, be nice to it doing so, pull valve cover retorque to final setting. reinstall valve cover, let get dead cold, drive to warm back up, let cool, then retorque again. if no movement, you should be good.

make darn sure you replace then and do the retorque process followint cummins's guidlines for torquing bolts, ie the sequence. this will preven the head from lifting, hopefully.

any time you lossen a bolt, or all of the bolts, you risk having the headgasket fail. thats why myself, id just replace it, have the head surfaced, and exhaust ported, and a good valve job done, re install the head, and enjoy knowing that you did everthing you could to give it a fighting chance.
 

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Today I received my ARP 425 Headstuds in the mail. Im sick of babying my truck and I want to get these things on ASAP. Im gonna do it without removing the head because my headgasket is fine (one bolt out, one stud in at a time method). There is supposed to 6 long studs for the exhaust manifold side and 20 shorter studs for under the valve cover. Well in my box I have 7 studs that are the longer exhaust manifold length and 19 that are the shorter length for the studs that go in the valve cover:doh: (should be 6 long studs, 20 short studs). Since they are all the same size other than length, can i just throw that extra 7th longer stud under the valve cover and be fine? Or do I have to wait longer and send these back to XDP and wait to get ones with the correct number of bolts.

Im guessing it will just be fine to use that 7th longer stud under the valve cover, as long as it clears rocker arms and such.

I got lucky with some 55psi high boost runs on stock headbolts (not sure how I pulled that off, but I did) but dont wanna take another chance lol
PM sent! Let me know and I'll get our CS dept on this asap.
 

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