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So what were your temps before pan install?


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Discussion Starter #22
170 pulling on freeway at 65
 
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For me at least, the port for the temperature probe, the magnetic plug that also makes it easier to change without dropping the whole pan alone make it worth it. If it in fact helps with the temperature, which I am fairly sure it does, then that's just an added bonus for me, seeing as I don't frequently tow heavy.
 

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the only thing a larger pan does is it takes longer for the fluid to get hot. Once its hot or at temp its going to stay there..
 

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I could be wrong, but more fluid plus the fact that there is more surface area for cooling due to airflow should...mind you SHOULD, equal lower temperatures on average. It will never beat an transmission cooler, but in general it should help
 
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Discussion Starter #26
Today on way back down i-5 running at 65mph
 

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Here's something to think about...I have

The oil cools in the cooler not the pan
The pan is like a holding tank for the oil waiting to get back into the system heated and cooled again
and the converter is the heater

The main thing that raises temperature is the converter not locked. It locks more with tow haul mode, and O/D off mode (in the other gears), as the converter is always locked in O/D.

I have a theory that a small pan allows all fluid to be circulated quicker through the cooler instead of resting in the pan. It's probably a "wash" between amount of oil and time of circulation. For sure, it cost a lot more to replace transmission fluid.

From experience: Towing 8000 lbs up a long windy grade, 25-40 mph, mostly 2nd and 3rd gear (2500 ft elevation gain in 8 miles). The engine is working (220), the fan is on, keeping the engine and transmission at the same temperature. In this scenario, transmission temp goes beyond engine when converter isn't in a locked stage, when locked it stops increasing heat, after pulling the grade, everything cools down. The trans got up to 230. Its important to use the transmission shift strategy to keep the transmission locked up as much as possible to keep the heat down.
 

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Deeper pans are more effective with the heat exchanger bypassed/deleted. You have 2 components in the same system fighting each other when they are supposed to be complimentary.

The heat exchanger is trying to bring the fluid up to near/exact to the coolants temperature. Ypu have a deep pan which is just a measure used to prevent spikes in heating of the fluid. Which is also what the exchanger tries to do. But what actually happens is the exchanger is putting energy into heating the fluid, but now there is more, so it eventually gets it all up to the same 190+ degree temperature. So what's the point?

Delete/bypass the stupid exchanger. Delete the thermostat in the front cooler. And only then will your deep pan actually begin to do what it was supposed to do.

Proven time and time again, this is the system that these trucks should have had from the beginning. Reason it's not on there is because of cost, obviously.

Until you delete the exchanger, your trans pan is just bling.

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Deeper pans are more effective with the heat exchanger bypassed/deleted. You have 2 components in the same system fighting each other when they are supposed to be complimentary.

The heat exchanger is trying to bring the fluid up to near/exact to the coolants temperature. Ypu have a deep pan which is just a measure used to prevent spikes in heating of the fluid. Which is also what the exchanger tries to do. But what actually happens is the exchanger is putting energy into heating the fluid, but now there is more, so it eventually gets it all up to the same 190+ degree temperature. So what's the point?

Delete/bypass the stupid exchanger. Delete the thermostat in the front cooler. And only then will your deep pan actually begin to do what it was supposed to do.

Proven time and time again, this is the system that these trucks should have had from the beginning. Reason it's not on there is because of cost, obviously.

Until you delete the exchanger, your trans pan is just bling.

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Im going to have to disagree with a good portion of this buddy.
Yes the xchanger heats the trans fluid up only until the trans is hotter than the coolant then the rolls reverse. I proved that to you when I bypassed my xchanger last summer and my DD trans temps became 210-220*. That was with the 2 20 row coolers out front in place of the stock cooler. With the exchanger back in the loop my temps are 180-190 driving light to light in 110*+ temps. As soon as I hit the highway those temps then sit around 150-160 empty or with 16k in tow.
A deep pan is a piece of the cooling puzzle but to buy one just for its cooling capabilities is not money well spent in my opinion.
 

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And like stated before, do not over tighten the drain bolt. It will get stuck! Ask me how I know. My fill plug in my Mag-Hytec rear end cover I used to have got stuck. Thank God for the Harbor Freight tiny funnel. Has to fill it thru a port. Ha. Lessons: Remove filler plug first. And do not over tighten plugs.



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I put a Allen wrench socket in the plug and give it a few taps with a hammer and it un sticks the plug easily . I鈥檝e had my mag dd pan on since 2007 and really like it , same with rear cover !
 
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If you're installing a transmission pan to improve cooling, you're barking up the wrong tree, so to speak. You have a cooling system for that. If you want more cooling, add more cooling system. The extra capacity of a deep pan is definitely nice in that it has a bigger reservoir to draw from, and a bigger heat sink to spread the heat into. It's the same reason your engine holds 12 or 13 qts of oil, instead of the 6 or 7 it could probably get by with. But the main reason to run a good aluminum pan is to strengthen the bottom of the case. The 47RE/48RE transmissions were derived from the old 727 TF, which was never designed to see the torque loads of even a stock diesel. If you pull the pan and valve body on a 47RE/48RE transmission, you'll see that there is literally ZERO case structure on the bottom. Case flex, especially in the higher HP applications I'm usually working with, can be significant at times and causing all manner of problems, usually with the valve body. Bolting a heavy aluminum pan to the bottom of the case, with 14 bolts torqued to specs significantly adds stiffness to the case.
 

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In my experience, no their not worth a dim for a normal person that just tows stuff (even big stuff) If the trans needs help cooling then there is something wrong with the trans or how you're shifting it. If its slipping and making more heat then adding extra fluid and coolers is only prolonging the problems at a higher costs that fixing the issues. you better off putting the money towards proper fluid change intervals and filters.

The drain plug is the only merit I see, I put on a Dorman pan on my 68RFE, stock clone but has a drain plug, $50 to my door. I dont even buy the temp sensor location, I think it should be read from the hotline out of the tans, not the pan.
 

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But the main reason to run a good aluminum pan is to strengthen the bottom of the case.
I have not heard that one before, sorta makes sense. Sounds more valid any of the fluid capacity arguments.
 

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I put on a Dorman pan on my 68RFE, stock clone but has a drain plug, $50 to my door. I dont even buy the temp sensor location, I think it should be read from the hotline out of the tans, not the pan.
The 68RFE is a whole different can of worms. Nothing even remotely similar to a 47/48, except that it's behind a Cummins.

As far as temp sensor location, I'll leave that one alone, except to say that I heavily disagree. It has been debated ad nauseum, and one of those subjects that guys will absolutely go to war over, but have no real data to support their position; only opinions, hearsay and personal preferences.
 

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If you're installing a transmission pan to improve cooling, you're barking up the wrong tree, so to speak. You have a cooling system for that. If you want more cooling, add more cooling system. The extra capacity of a deep pan is definitely nice in that it has a bigger reservoir to draw from, and a bigger heat sink to spread the heat into. It's the same reason your engine holds 12 or 13 qts of oil, instead of the 6 or 7 it could probably get by with. But the main reason to run a good aluminum pan is to strengthen the bottom of the case. The 47RE/48RE transmissions were derived from the old 727 TF, which was never designed to see the torque loads of even a stock diesel. If you pull the pan and valve body on a 47RE/48RE transmission, you'll see that there is literally ZERO case structure on the bottom. Case flex, especially in the higher HP applications I'm usually working with, can be significant at times and causing all manner of problems, usually with the valve body. Bolting a heavy aluminum pan to the bottom of the case, with 14 bolts torqued to specs significantly adds stiffness to the case.
Some awesome stuff in there, I never thought of that when i pulled my old pan off. +1 more good thing for a deep pan. Do you suppose with the extra strength it helps prevent the cracking of some transmission cases that occasionally happens to some folks?
 

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The 68RFE is a whole different can of worms. Nothing even remotely similar to a 47/48, except that it's behind a Cummins.

As far as temp sensor location, I'll leave that one alone, except to say that I heavily disagree. It has been debated ad nauseum, and one of those subjects that guys will absolutely go to war over, but have no real data to support their position; only opinions, hearsay and personal preferences.
Yea I think what鈥檚 more important than the sensor location is knowing and understanding what your reading based on where the sensor is. Understanding that the temps will be different ranges at each and respond differently.

I didn鈥檛 know the stuff about case stiffness, makes sense, you see people slapping reinforcing brackets/plates to the top them too. I still don鈥檛 buy the extra fluid thing, never seen and real data on it. I guess maybe if your working on your zero-60 haha. But that ok it鈥檚 just me.



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#thermodynamics haha
 
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