I was planning to do it last summer, but $300 for the correct parts and new cable was too expensive for me. I ended up just putting in sheet metal screws in the posts to fix it, $0.50.
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LMAO I DID THE SAME THING!!!IT LOOKS LIKE CRAP BUT HAS BEEN THERE OVER A YEAR NOW.
SAD WITH ALL IVE DONE UNDER THE HOOD AND THAT IS USUALLY WHAT PEOPLE COMMENT ON FIRST. "DAM THAT IS WTF IS THAT SCREW"
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Ok, so I'm looking for advice on how best to do this - they're already crapped out so taking care of them is moot
Me personally I would get a new lengths of welder cable and solder on new terminals on both ends (battery terminal and ring terminal). Then take care of them properly.Ok, so I'm looking for advice on how best to do this - they're already crapped out so taking care of them is moot
I would ditch the old cable because if the terminal is bad and the cable is most likely going south internally from corrosion.
welding wire is fine for many things but i prefer to use high strand count OFC (oxygen free cable) cable for all my power wires. I pull a ton of power through my trucks batteries (4 group 31's) so my needs warrant going a bit over board.
the smaller neg wires are body grounds or maybe some accessory grounds from after market parts such as lights. anything that is connected to your posts by ring terminals you will need to track back to see what it goes to (if anything). when i bought my truck i removed a good 300ft of junk wire from tits and tats that were installed once upon a time and then removed and forgotten about.
the positive terminals on the passenger side should just be an interconnect to your driver side battery and on the driver side is a 8ga going to your fuse block and a 0ga going to your starter. these are thick stranded wire that is pretty imo. I am building a setup to run a 5th smaller battery with a diode so it will power the trucks base systems from the fuse distro block (factory) off a dedicated 12V power source adn the rest of my truck will be a 18V system.
here are some pics of my batteries from durring the install, they are wraped better now and the plate is encased in its plexi enclosure. imgur: the simple image sharer
thats a 420A alternator in there as well, if you are upgrading your alternator i recomend running a dedicated ground from the mount bolt to your battery and 0ga from the alt terminal to your battery or distro block.
this is the wire i recomend for light to medium power install (say anything under a 400A draw).
its very easy to work with and carries a good load.
edit: forgot to mention that this wire i linked is copper/alum. power (electrons) travel on the ousdide of wire in what is known as the skin effect. thus to save money cheaper wire is a copper wrapped aluminum rosin core. thismeans that its cheaper and still carries the same amount of electrons BUT it can not handle the same amperage as it will heat faster and fail. now i mentioned that > 400A is fine for the length of runs you will see in your truck on this upgraded wire but if you want to install some high end stereo equipment or high power draws (such as a winch) then id recommend some of this wire: http://www.amazon.com/0GA-Audio-Black-Flexible-Power/dp/B00CA4ZTMS/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1384115097&sr=1-7&keywords=0ga+ofc
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the smaller neg wires are body grounds or maybe some accessory grounds from after market parts such as lights. anything that is connected to your posts by ring terminals you will need to track back to see what it goes to (if anything). when i bought my truck i removed a good 300ft of junk wire from tits and tats that were installed once upon a time and then removed and forgotten about.
the positive terminals on the passenger side should just be an interconnect to your driver side battery and on the driver side is a 8ga going to your fuse block and a 0ga going to your starter. these are thick stranded wire that is pretty imo. I am building a setup to run a 5th smaller battery with a diode so it will power the trucks base systems from the fuse distro block (factory) off a dedicated 12V power source adn the rest of my truck will be a 18V system.
here are some pics of my batteries from durring the install, they are wraped better now and the plate is encased in its plexi enclosure. imgur: the simple image sharer
thats a 420A alternator in there as well, if you are upgrading your alternator i recomend running a dedicated ground from the mount bolt to your battery and 0ga from the alt terminal to your battery or distro block.
this is the wire i recomend for light to medium power install (say anything under a 400A draw).
its very easy to work with and carries a good load.
edit: forgot to mention that this wire i linked is copper/alum. power (electrons) travel on the ousdide of wire in what is known as the skin effect. thus to save money cheaper wire is a copper wrapped aluminum rosin core. thismeans that its cheaper and still carries the same amount of electrons BUT it can not handle the same amperage as it will heat faster and fail. now i mentioned that > 400A is fine for the length of runs you will see in your truck on this upgraded wire but if you want to install some high end stereo equipment or high power draws (such as a winch) then id recommend some of this wire: http://www.amazon.com/0GA-Audio-Black-Flexible-Power/dp/B00CA4ZTMS/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1384115097&sr=1-7&keywords=0ga+ofc
Where/how much was that alternator? I have a 5k inverter (8k peak) and I need more power for it for me even to consider putting it in. I also will be putting 2k watt stereo soon. Got the amps now saving for subs haha. Got components/head unit.welding wire is fine for many things but i prefer to use high strand count OFC (oxygen free cable) cable for all my power wires. I pull a ton of power through my trucks batteries (4 group 31's) so my needs warrant going a bit over board.
the smaller neg wires are body grounds or maybe some accessory grounds from after market parts such as lights. anything that is connected to your posts by ring terminals you will need to track back to see what it goes to (if anything). when i bought my truck i removed a good 300ft of junk wire from tits and tats that were installed once upon a time and then removed and forgotten about.
the positive terminals on the passenger side should just be an interconnect to your driver side battery and on the driver side is a 8ga going to your fuse block and a 0ga going to your starter. these are thick stranded wire that is pretty imo. I am building a setup to run a 5th smaller battery with a diode so it will power the trucks base systems from the fuse distro block (factory) off a dedicated 12V power source adn the rest of my truck will be a 18V system.
here are some pics of my batteries from durring the install, they are wraped better now and the plate is encased in its plexi enclosure. imgur: the simple image sharer
thats a 420A alternator in there as well, if you are upgrading your alternator i recomend running a dedicated ground from the mount bolt to your battery and 0ga from the alt terminal to your battery or distro block.
this is the wire i recomend for light to medium power install (say anything under a 400A draw). KnuKonceptz KCA Kable 0 Gauge Power Wire Black : Amazon.com : Automotive
its very easy to work with and carries a good load.
edit: forgot to mention that this wire i linked is copper/alum. power (electrons) travel on the ousdide of wire in what is known as the skin effect. thus to save money cheaper wire is a copper wrapped aluminum rosin core. thismeans that its cheaper and still carries the same amount of electrons BUT it can not handle the same amperage as it will heat faster and fail. now i mentioned that > 400A is fine for the length of runs you will see in your truck on this upgraded wire but if you want to install some high end stereo equipment or high power draws (such as a winch) then id recommend some of this wire: Amazon.com: 0GA - Skar Audio Black 0GA 50ft Roll Flexible Power Cable: Automotive
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Sorry for Hi-Jack!
Good thread! I need to fix my cables soon also, cheap clamp on ends................gotta love my father haha! Being a mechanic his stuff was always the quickest fix.
Thanks, Brad.
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