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Discussion Starter #1
Just installed a clutch (from stock to Southbend ConFE) this weekend and I decided to splurge for Amsoil Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90, which they recommended for the NV4500 and Its having trouble finding gears on my way home from the shop...

It was shifting fine before so I don't think its the syncros and I thought it had the Amsoil in it already,

The only changes to the truck;

Amsoil Fluid in Tranny,
New Clutch
New Hyd clutch Slave Cylinder

My thinking of causes:
new clutch breaking-in
Slave cylinder needs to settle and get any air out of it (to have full disengagement of clutch)
Or both the above
Fresh Amsoil in Tranny instead of the Syntorque.


Have others had any issues with running Amsoil instead of the Syntorque
 

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Not really sure of what you used but Amsoil MTG is a well proven substitute for Syntorq
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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Far as I know MTG is the only long term tested replacement for Syntorq.
Other brands that claim to be direct replacements really aren't.
Problem is their chemistry isn't compatible with the syncros.
I've heard reports of syncro failure with Redline, Royal Purple and non-synthetic gear oil.
Many people say they use one or the other without problem but my feeling is have they gone 100k on it?
 

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Just installed a clutch (from stock to Southbend ConFE) this weekend and I decided to splurge for Amsoil Synthetic Manual Transmission and

The only changes to the truck;

Amsoil Fluid in Tranny,
New Clutch
New Hyd clutch Slave Cylinder

My thinking of causes:
new clutch breaking-in
Slave cylinder needs to settle and get any air out of it (to have full disengagement of clutch)
my guess is that the clutch isn't disengaging properly.
 

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I don't have experiences with Dodge clutches but in general, this type of problem could be something like dirt, nicked splines, coatings or poor tolerances which won't allow the clutch disk to float away from the flywheel on the input shaft when the pressure plate releases. This would keep the disk dragging against the flywheel and produce those symptoms.

It could also be an improperly assembled or adjusted linkage that is no longer releasing the clutch completely. Bubbles in the line, missing return spring etc. Can you "pump up" the clutch? Does it shift easier when you match engine rpms to the trucks speed? This will all help you sort out where the problems are.

It might be helpful to have someone press the clutch pedal while you watch from underneath. You could quickly see some problems. Chock the wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It could also be an improperly assembled or adjusted linkage that is no longer releasing the clutch completely. Bubbles in the line, missing return spring etc. Can you "pump up" the clutch? Does it shift easier when you match engine rpms to the trucks speed? This will all help you sort out where the problems are.

It might be helpful to have someone press the clutch pedal while you watch from underneath. You could quickly see some problems. Chock the wheels.
The clutch Master/Slave cylinder is new and came filled with fluid so I'm hoping it just may have some air to work its way out but pumping has NO affect...it does feel like its not long enough...my pedal sits on the floor when I shift and I feel like I need some more length...I need to inspect it real well tomorrow in daylight. (a buddy installed it while I was working under the truck)
I also need to check and make sure no lines are pinched I guess?

THe most trouble is shifting into gear from neutral...it will shift while moving but you can feel it.

If this is just how a new clutch works...let me know and I'll quit searching for issues till the 200 mile break-in is over.

Thanks Ya'll

JT
 

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ive been around some hydraulic clutches and i know they can be tricky sometimes getting them bled correctly and making sure all the air is out. im sure its not the oil change, sometimes ive cracked the bleeder, make sure the res. is full, go drink a six pack, come back to check on it and its better all from good ol gravity.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ive been around some hydraulic clutches and i know they can be tricky sometimes getting them bled correctly and making sure all the air is out. im sure its not the oil change, sometimes ive cracked the bleeder, make sure the res. is full, go drink a six pack, come back to check on it and its better all from good ol gravity.
My stock clutch master/slave cylinder was leaking so I got the HD hyd from southbend (not muchmore over stock) so installed it the same time. Even with the Con-FE the pedal was so much softer than the stocker that I just assume it was because it was HD? I guess it could be a sign of air. Down side is from what I can tell its a closed system and I don't see any way to bleed it? I think its time to call South bend.

How stiff compared to stock will the HD Hydraulic and SBC Con-FE be? Mine is lighter.
 

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Did you ever get your transmission figured out? my nv4500 is doing the same thing after putting amsoil in it. It was shifting fine before
 

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try bleeding the clutch by pumping the the slave. keep system perfectly upright and slowly pump the rod to force bubbles and fluid to the master. have a buddy watch the master to see if anything came up, do that for about 5 minutes and rattle and tap the line while bleeding. then re install. too much air in the clutch wont allow the clutch to fully disengage and the synchros wont allow you to select a gear while the clutch is still rotating.
 
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This thread is three years old. Livestrong resurrected it to ask about the fluid used.
 
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