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Discussion Starter #1
Title says it all. Seems like the trend is lighter weight oils. Any thoughts?
 

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Potentially a smidgen quicker oil distribution at startup, and theoretically better mileage, I'd think.

In my case the main benefit is that I don't have to change oil twice a year just because the seasons change.
Also, with up to 50 degree temperature swings between morning and afternoon, this time of year I would be changing it daily.
 

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If your not towing heavy the lighter viscosity should perform well and possibly a bump in MPG
 

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Where in the manual does it suggest to use 0-30 unless it's changed?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Is there a Cummins approved 5w-30 diesel oil?
 

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I believe the lightest weight oil approved for the 6.7 CTD is 5w-40 full synthetic. Right now Amazon has Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme 5w-40 synthetic 3 gallons for $60.26 with free shipping (Prime) and it is Cummins approved, says so right on the jug. The Valvoline 15w-40 dino oil is $68.11 for 3 gallons so why would you not run the synthetic?
 

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I believe the lightest weight oil approved for the 6.7 CTD is 5w-40 full synthetic. Right now Amazon has Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme 5w-40 synthetic 3 gallons for $60.26 with free shipping (Prime) and it is Cummins approved, says so right on the jug. The Valvoline 15w-40 dino oil is $68.11 for 3 gallons so why would you not run the synthetic?
We have Rural King stores in our area. When on sale I purchase Valvoline Premium Blue 15/40 for $10.99 a gallon. $14.99 if not on sale. Amazon may have good prices on many things, but IMO oil is NOT one of them. $10.99 x's 3 = $32.97 instead of Amazon's $68.11 for the same 3 gallons of 15/40. That is before sales tax. Some parts houses have sales now & then on the VPB 15/40.
 

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If it meets CES 20081 or 86 you are fine.

A 30 weight should, all around perform better at cold temps, after all the oil is lighter viscosity. Compare kinematic viscosity of a 30 to a 40 weight at the 40 and 100 degree C.

Now the manual states to only use a 40 weight but Cummins allows a 30. Just look at their approved list. They also have condemnation limits on viscosity for each weight oil as well.

As it stands we have zero evidence to suggest that a 30 weight is inferior to a 40, if there is factual evidence otherwise please show me.

I run 10w30 semi synthetic year round and will be sampling my first UOA within a few weeks. Over time I hope to see how good or bad a 30 weight actually is.
 

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If it meets CES 20081 or 86 you are fine.

A 30 weight should, all around perform better at cold temps, after all the oil is lighter viscosity. Compare kinematic viscosity of a 30 to a 40 weight at the 40 and 100 degree C.

Now the manual states to only use a 40 weight but Cummins allows a 30. Just look at their approved list. They also have condemnation limits on viscosity for each weight oil as well.

As it stands we have zero evidence to suggest that a 30 weight is inferior to a 40, if there is factual evidence otherwise please show me.

I run 10w30 semi synthetic year round and will be sampling my first UOA within a few weeks. Over time I hope to see how good or bad a 30 weight actually is.
Please do and if you Towed with what GVW in that time?
 

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If I actually lived within a extremely cold climate 24/7 I would not hesitate to run a 30Wt.
My region is Oklahoma/Texas & it doesn’t get that cold for days/months on end.

My new 2017 is parked in the garage most the time so I will remain using 5W-40.

Schaeffers Ultra 10W-30 would be my first choice.
 

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As long as its synthetic 5-40w works just fine in extreme cold. Been there, am there. 800,000+ on a 97 12v.
 
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Just added my UOA on 10w30 in the 2013+ general discussion UOA thread. Other than wear metals were high (oil sampled still had some factory fill in it) the oil it self looks great, additives still left in it, viscosity held up real well and fuel/soot/viscosity were well within Cummins condemnation limits. Unfortunately it takes me 3/4 of a year to get to the 24,000km index so until next time.
 

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You scofflaw you. It says right in the manual that you must change oil at least every six months, no matter what, or else...
I cant tell if you're throwing this out there as a joke but.....PLEASE dont follow this ridiculous concept of changing your engine oil every 6 months. I'm not sure what ingenious person came up with this marketing scheme but its just unfortunate that people believe the oil in your engine (or on the shelf) goes bad from just sitting there... :doh:
 

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I cant tell if you're throwing this out there as a joke but.....PLEASE dont follow this ridiculous concept of changing your engine oil every 6 months. I'm not sure what ingenious person came up with this marketing scheme but its just unfortunate that people believe the oil in your engine (or on the shelf) goes bad from just sitting there... :doh:
Just between you and me, KATOOM, no I don't change the oil every six months, either.
My year and a half old C&C has only had one oil change (at about 1,800 miles).

It's interesting to me that a vehicle can sit on the dealer's lot for a year without an oil change, but once sold, the oil must be changed every six months whether it's been driven or not.
 

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I cant tell if you're throwing this out there as a joke but.....PLEASE dont follow this ridiculous concept of changing your engine oil every 6 months. I'm not sure what ingenious person came up with this marketing scheme but its just unfortunate that people believe the oil in your engine (or on the shelf) goes bad from just sitting there... :doh:

I agree that this 6 month interval thing is ridiculous but... if you are running a regular dino oil, it does thicken up with cold cycling. How cold, I do no know, maybe it's the thermal cycling that thickens it up.


In all honesty, the sophisticated systems on these trucks now, with the oil life calculation based on many factors, it should be able to take over all time into account as well - ohhh but it doesn't so that leads me to believe some bean counter may have been responsible for adding the six month clause into the service schedule.
 

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The only things which constitute oil changes are polymer sheering, additive evaporation, contamination, and heat. Polymers break down during their transitional phases, additives can evaporate from heat, contamination from the combustion process creates hydrochloric acid, and heat causes oxidation which removes smaller molecules and thickens the oil. Oil manufactures obviously know all this (and a lot more) so they market to us with just enough information to make us feel we know whats best.

But simply put, oil sitting in the engine doesnt go bad. But because oil can be hygroscopic, if the engine isnt allowed to run hot enough and long enough to burn off any moisture during cooler or rainy seasons then you have to change the oil sooner.

On the flip side, if the oil runs too hot for too long (generally in excess of 200*F) then oxidation will begin thickening and sludge forming, and changing sooner is necessary.

I dont really know how much I'd trust an oil life indicator system on these newer vehicles. I know they use parameters like distance driven, engine temperature, RPM's, ambient temperature, load, etc... but I think my understanding of how the vehicle was treated during that oils service life is more in tune that the indicator. :thumbsup:
 

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Oh darn.. I looked at the analysis again and because the oil was older than 6 months it went rotten. I will change it twice before the 6 months next time to get it back on track.

I hope the wear metals drop at a reasonable rate as I want to see how far I can stretch out the indexes.
 
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