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Mike how are you liking the swap now that you've had it a while?
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Mike how are you liking the swap now that you've had it a while?
Are you implying I ever had an automatic truck? I don't recall a time before the 6 speed! :hehe:

Seriously though, I love it. Drove it cross country with my camper last spring, several trips across the state hauling my camper and hauled firewood a time or 2 and it's been just awesome. My wife even enjoys driving it and that's saying a lot because she was dead-set against me doing it in the first place and made physical threats if it didn't turn out perfect.

I still have to get enough ambition to tackle the reverse lights but that's ultra low priority with everything else going on in my life the last 6 months, and the only thing I would have done differently is not put the Southbend in there. For a stock application such as mine it's just a little too grabby of a clutch for what I use the truck for. I love not having to worry about it if I do add power in the future, so I wouldn't say that I regret it, but if I was doing it all over again knowing what I know now, I would have went for a tamer clutch.
 

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My feelings are the same on the swap... love my truck more than when I bought it. I had my original pilot bearing in the phoenix clutch kit fail on me the week before leaving MN to head back west (did 3600 miles heading home). Ended up with a South Bend clutch and love it. It started out with very light pedal feel but that disappeared soon after. Not sure why but eh. In June I finally had my trans bearings swapped out so it should be good to go for the long haul... new clutch, "rebuilt" trans.

Wife still has yet to get behind the wheel of the truck, thats gonna change soon though, heading to Canada in Sept and I expect she will get some seat time. I have been helping member KCT to try go get his cruise working in his '04.5 swap, he has his reverse lights working and I'm thinking I'll hit him up for what he did and get mine done. When I do I'll post it up for others to follow. Still no luck on his CC though, the only thing I can think of is the speed sensor wiring. Havent given up on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
My feelings are the same on the swap... love my truck more than when I bought it. I had my original pilot bearing in the phoenix clutch kit fail on me the week before leaving MN to head back west (did 3600 miles heading home). Ended up with a South Bend clutch and love it. It started out with very light pedal feel but that disappeared soon after. Not sure why but eh. In June I finally had my trans bearings swapped out so it should be good to go for the long haul... new clutch, "rebuilt" trans.

Wife still has yet to get behind the wheel of the truck, thats gonna change soon though, heading to Canada in Sept and I expect she will get some seat time. I have been helping member KCT to try go get his cruise working in his '04.5 swap, he has his reverse lights working and I'm thinking I'll hit him up for what he did and get mine done. When I do I'll post it up for others to follow. Still no luck on his CC though, the only thing I can think of is the speed sensor wiring. Havent given up on it.
Keep me posted on how it goes with KCT - I've been following that thread. My dad has been kicking around the idea of converting his 04.5 after seeing how mine turned out. I think I have the reverse lights figured out - I just need to get ahold of the pigtail and find the right wires to splice.

Take care and have a safe trip!
 

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Thanks everyone Great Information. I was not sure about clutch but now I know I'm going stock. Two more questions is a LUK a good stock clutch to go with and I should I get a new adapter plate or go with the starter spacer? MTMIKE its because of your videos I decided to do this thanks.
 

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:beer: nice job!
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Thanks everyone Great Information. I was not sure about clutch but now I know I'm going stock. Two more questions is a LUK a good stock clutch to go with and I should I get a new adapter plate or go with the starter spacer? MTMIKE its because of your videos I decided to do this thanks.
Not sure what exactly to recommend for a clutch, but I would do the Solid Mass Flywheel conversion. So it's stock-style but it is still an upgrade over stock.

I was looking at something along these lines for mine: Valair Clutch Kit for 2005 5 2012 Dodge 5 9L 6 7 Cummins Diesel G56 6 Speed | eBay

Glad I was able to inspire you to do take on the swap.... as previously stated, I hardly remember a time that my truck as an auto. I've owned it for 10 years (since it was new) and have only had it converted for 9 months :hehe:
 
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Ok guys another question. Programmers for ECU flash. Does anyone rent those or do I need to purchase another one. I have a Bully Dog Power Pup it's seven years old and was told it would not work.
 

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Thank you so much for this write up mtmike, it's very well done. I know you got your manual and trade from a year close to your own, but do you (or anyone else) know what years an nv5600 and manual shift tcase can be sourced from to transplant? I'm 99% sure I could use it from practically any year, I would just like some reassurance from people that have actually done the swap. The moment I get an answer I'm buying whatever you folks say lol. Tired of blown autos!!


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The best way is to measure the lengths before and after. Eliminates a lot of potential places for error. Not all trucks are the same and relying on someone else's measurements isn't always a great idea.
AGREED monkeybrain!! I did the auto to NV5600 swap and waited till I got everything mounted to do the measuring. Glad I did. I had to extend the front 5" to a total of 37" from flange to flange. The rear for me measured 56.75" from rear seal of x-fer case to the center of rear U-joint and those figures are A LOT different than the 2" I have read elsewhere. My driveline bill was pretty hefty, but I was told the CV portion of the front was non-serviceable so I stepped up and spent an extra $240 for a completely new 100% serviceable unit. I'm pretty much finished....had it all together and realized my 4x4 isn't kicking in. Probably missed something when I swapped the input shaft so I had to take the x-fer case back off. I haven't gotten it back together yet.

The other issue is my clutch safety switch and reverse lights. MTmike, do you have detailed step by step instructions on the clutch safety switch? and does anyone else have step by step for the reverse lights? I'm totally terrified of wiring.
 

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Thanks monkey....quick question on the clutch safety switch. The plug coming out of the slave cylinder is a male plug....the switch I bought also has a male plug...WTF!? how do I put both males together AND tap into the clutch safety switch? I'm REALLY not wiring savy. My other question relates to reverse lights but I'll post on that thread so I don't hijack this one anymore than I already have. :party018:
 

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Thanks monkey....quick question on the clutch safety switch. The plug coming out of the slave cylinder is a male plug....the switch I bought also has a male plug...WTF!? how do I put both males together AND tap into the clutch safety switch? I'm REALLY not wiring savy. My other question relates to reverse lights but I'll post on that thread so I don't hijack this one anymore than I already have. :party018:
Also....both plugs have 2 wires....the clutch safety switch plugs have 2. Uhhmmm....yeah I'm wetawded. Which wire/wires do I tap the ylw/blu tracer too?
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
The other issue is my clutch safety switch and reverse lights. MTmike, do you have detailed step by step instructions on the clutch safety switch? and does anyone else have step by step for the reverse lights? I'm totally terrified of wiring.
I've still not done the reverse light project, simply out of pure, unadulterated laziness. :hehe: I'll share the info that I have accumulated about it:
You will have to buy a pigtail from the dodge house and wire a keyed on 12v to one side of the reverse switch on the tranny and wire the other side to the white wire with a light green tracer that is on the frame rail in front of the fuel tank.


Page 2647 on service manual

Looks like the start/run wire on the trans harness is White/Grey or Pink/Grey

Or I used this to tap into the fuse box. I used slot 32. From the owner's manual it says this was a key on power accessory. This will be spliced into one side of the reverse light switch. The other side of the switch will be spliced into the white wire with light green tracer, which is the reverse lights.

Using the pigtail from the donor truck I spliced into the reverse lights.
There is a white wire with a light green tracer on it, directly above the transmission crossmember in the plastic wire sleeving. Make sure you tap into the white wire with the light green tracer because there is another white wire with a dark green tracer.
As for the clutch safety switch - it's super easy, and everyone I've talked to that's struggled with it was just overthinking it, so let me attempt to explain it as simply as possible.

The yellow/blue wire on the under-hood harness just to the left of the brake master cylinder needs to be grounded for the truck to start. When that wire is grounded, it sends the signal to the ECM to allow the truck to start. When it is not grounded, it will not allow the truck to start.

You can wire it up 3 ways.
1) Simply splice a single wire into it on 1 end, and put the other end to a good ground. If you do this, the truck will start every time you turn the key. Bad idea in case you leave the truck in gear or have kids playing in your truck.
2) The clutch safety switch is a simple switch where when the clutch pedal is pushed in, the switch is closed, when the pedal is not pushed in, the switch is open. Follow me here: Take 2 wires: Wire A and Wire B, each wire has 2 sides - Side 1 and Side 2. You want to splice Side 1 of Wire A into the yellow/blue wire under the dash, and splice Side 2 of Wire A to either one the clutch safety switch wires; And then splice Side 1 of Wire B into the other side of the clutch safety switch (aka the side you didn't splice Wire A Side 2 into), and Side 2 of Wire B to a good solid ground. Then what will happens is that when and only when the clutch pedal is pressed all the way down, then clutch safety switch will close, connecting that Yellow/Blue wire to ground through Wire A and Wire B.
3) A momentary switch that is hooked up just like a clutch safety switch and does the same thing: Grounds the yellow/blue wire when pressed. Bad idea because you loose the ability to cancel the cruise control by pressing the clutch pedal potentially leading to an over-rev situation.

See my awesome "hand drawn in 4 minutes" diagram below :
 

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Great write up. I'm almost done with the G56 swap in my truck but having issues with the clutch safety switch/ starter lock-out. I've got the correct wire (yellow with blue trace). First time I tried it sounded like the starter solenoid started to click and move the starter then nothing. My truck came with an aftermarket Audiovox Pursuit car alarm but I never got the key fobs and don't use it. I'm wondering if somehow the alarm is keeping the truck from starting? I'm thinking I'll yank the alarm out this weekend. Whoever put it in did a messy job with the install. It's the only thing I can find that could be preventing the truck from starting.
 

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I've still not done the reverse light project, simply out of pure, unadulterated laziness. :hehe: I'll share the info that I have accumulated about it:


As for the clutch safety switch - it's super easy, and everyone I've talked to that's struggled with it was just overthinking it, so let me attempt to explain it as simply as possible.

The yellow/blue wire on the under-hood harness just to the left of the brake master cylinder needs to be grounded for the truck to start. When that wire is grounded, it sends the signal to the ECM to allow the truck to start. When it is not grounded, it will not allow the truck to start.

You can wire it up 3 ways.
1) Simply splice a single wire into it on 1 end, and put the other end to a good ground. If you do this, the truck will start every time you turn the key. Bad idea in case you leave the truck in gear or have kids playing in your truck.
2) The clutch safety switch is a simple switch where when the clutch pedal is pushed in, the switch is closed, when the pedal is not pushed in, the switch is open. Follow me here: Take 2 wires: Wire A and Wire B, each wire has 2 sides - Side 1 and Side 2. You want to splice Side 1 of Wire A into the yellow/blue wire under the dash, and splice Side 2 of Wire A to either one the clutch safety switch wires; And then splice Side 1 of Wire B into the other side of the clutch safety switch (aka the side you didn't splice Wire A Side 2 into), and Side 2 of Wire B to a good solid ground. Then what will happens is that when and only when the clutch pedal is pressed all the way down, then clutch safety switch will close, connecting that Yellow/Blue wire to ground through Wire A and Wire B.
3) A momentary switch that is hooked up just like a clutch safety switch and does the same thing: Grounds the yellow/blue wire when pressed. Bad idea because you loose the ability to cancel the cruise control by pressing the clutch pedal potentially leading to an over-rev situation.

See my awesome "hand drawn in 4 minutes" diagram below :

AWESOME....I understand the drawing and as simple as it is, makes sense to this simple mind!!! NOW, Please be patient when reading and responding...remember simple mind!!:hehe:

There are two wires that go into a male plug from the hydraulics.....Do I do the exact same thing with them? have wire A & B and wire them up just like the safety switch? If not....what do I do with them if anything? I'm assuming when they are wired up it powers the system to work the slave cylinder itself. Geez, I really wish I would have read a F'n book in school. :doh::banghead::shock::hehe:

So to recap....clutch safety switch has two wires A&B that go into a male plug. Ground one of them, and wire the other up to the ylw/blu tracer. Got it and thank you. The wires coming out of the slave cylinder hydraulics...do I do the same? I can't thank you guys enough...for the info and your patience.
 

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PLEASE disregard my last post. I'm such an idiot. I started researching the wiring diagrams and pictures ONLY to realize when I bought a complete SB clutch system, it came with a clutch safety switch already installed. No wonder I had to male plugs. :shock: Jeez....what a schmuck I am. anyway, hope to get it buttoned up today. "FINGERS CROSSED" Thanks for all of your help.
 

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I'd like to thank the OP MTMike for the inspiration to do this myself. I took 12v switched power from the fuse box and sent it to one pin on the reverse switch. Then I spliced into the white/green wire running the drivers side frame rail and sent that to the other pin on the reverse switch on the transmission. Voila!!

Also, I wanted a weighted shift knob so I used balls from an interchangeable trailer hitch. These went straight on with no modifications whatsoever. Nothing ever goes that easy lol. Trying to post a few pics but can't for some reason.


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I'm glad to hear you guys have the reverse lights and clutch safety switch figured out.

Any of you have an electronic transfer case that will shift into Low Range after the Auto to Manual swap? My brother and I swapped transmissions on our 2006 Laramie Mega Cab 4x4 3500's and neither will shift into Low Range. I'm guessing TIPM since we swapped all wiring harnesses and flashed the computers with the help of Smarty. Any ideas?
 
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