[4500]

I have read all I could find on this forum and others, The 04 thru 07 just seems to dirty up the oil much worse and much faster than other years. Many have said to just live with it as it hurts nothing if you run a good oil. I just do not like this solution as I started on 12 valves that do not abuse oil like this. I am sure it is a personal problem on my part but I just do not like oil that looks like this.

I know there is an Amsoil filter kit, Frantz filter kit and centrifuge.
WE all know Amsoil is best (for oiling your snake) I would not use for general principles
Frantz is a proven system ( I have never had one on a diesel) have heard nothing bad about them on a cummins
centrifuge is good with air to drive it but unless only highway driven the oil pressure driven models do not work well in city driving

and that is about all that I have learned and I was wanting to get some feedback from people who have these systems and others that are similar

bottom line have they made a difference either by feel or visual appearance or even better with before and after used oil analysis

Or after all is said and done should I just live with it and hang on to my 12 valves

Thanks for reading
Bubba

 

[krs]

If I were to do it I would install a DieselCraft pneumatic centrifuge. But these engines last long enough without spending that kind of money. More likely to lose an engine to a failed injector.
Money better spent in engine preheating such as Espar or Wabasto heaters and use good oil.

Fuel filtration is the biggest issue with these 3rd gens.

 

[BFD]

I've had a bypass on all of my CTDs but I'd do UOA, even w/o a bypass, and see what's going on and how long you can run your oil. The UOA will tell you lots of other good info besides if soot is at a hi level.

 

[CumminsTNT]

I've had an oil bypass system on my '05 for 12 years and use a 2 micron filter. I have seen no visual difference in the oil colour in that time. I do oil analysis at around 10,000 km (6250 miles) and the oil (Delvac 1 15-40) is well withing specs after that mileage for everything including soot. The truck has 325,000 Kms (203,000 miles) and is modified.

 

[spooled05]

I run the amsoil eabp100 filter and really can’t tell any difference in the oil being cleaner looking at it . I had rocker gauling prior to the bypass and it has fixed that problem. I still don’t understand double filtering the oil and dumping it back in the crankcase where it gets the contamination in the first place . I’ve thought about making something up with a bypass to use the oil to lube the turbos but it’s not worth the time imo.

 

[BFD]

Only a small amount goes thru the bypass but it's filtered MUCH better. The bypass filters out the bigger particles faster than they accumulate. It works bcuz oil samples come from the pan and uoas show the benefit of the finer bypass filtration.

 

[5.7 Hemi]

Agreed!^^^^

 

[slowmover]

Dieselcraft OC-25 unit currently at $559.

Lube oil is a chokepoint problem.
(Unable to change it due to scarcity).

For those who can buy/store 35-gl drums of oil, maybe doesn’t matter too much.

Fuel filters are what’ll really shut it down (bad fuel; decline in refinery standards).

Maintaining fuel cleanliness (bulk storage) a serious problem.

— For an extended family with 3-4/gassers to every 1/diesel, the diesel goes bye-bye. For the farmer or contractor, it’s a different story. (Bulk fuel delivery plus fleet)

Extra fuel filtration, Espar, and oil centrifuge are potentially worthy upgrades (as with radio services installation) — as unlike tires, tuners, lift kits and other signs of abuse — they go directly to the job of getting things done to which a pickup is suited.

“Higher than normal idle hours” might benefit, (etc).

Five years = weekly $2.30/increase in ownership cost.

.

 

[j98]

@dieselenthusiast here's a thread for you 👍

 

[steve05ram360]

Comments on bypass kits...

Steve05 By-Pass Oil Filter?

Hi Steve, Reading one of the earlier posts that you were involved with you posted a photo of your engine top. I distinctly saw an oil return line in your oil fill cap, are you running an oil filter bypass system on your truck? If so, what type and what are your thoughts on this system...

www.cumminsforum.com

 

[highheat71]

If I were to do it I would install a DieselCraft pneumatic centrifuge. But these engines last long enough without spending that kind of money. More likely to lose an engine to a failed injector.
Money better spent in engine preheating such as Espar or Wabasto heaters and use good oil.

Fuel filtration is the biggest issue with these 3rd gens.

Fuel filtration paramount. Min 2 micron Cat or equivalent Baldwin or Donaldson. Stock filtration killed my CP3 and injectors at 250K.

 

[4500]

Thank you to all who replied I am kind of confused about the Dieselcraft oc-25 is it spun with oil pressure or air or both I am having a hard time finding information on their site.

 

[krs]

Thank you to all who replied I am kind of confused about the Dieselcraft oc-25 is it spun with oil pressure or air or both I am having a hard time finding information on their site.

It takes a tiny bit of oil from the 1/8" port in the filter housing and the actual filtration is done with pneumatic pressure spinning the centrifuge. It filters better and more volume than any of the bypass filtration systems that run purely off of the pressure through the 1/8" port.

 

[4500]

Ok I get that but I do not have on board air or is that the little box that is off to the side? Is that actually an air compressor?

 

[krs]

Ok I get that but I do not have on board air or is that the little box that is off to the side? Is that actually an air compressor?

Years ago when I looked into but then decided it wasn't worth it. I seem to recall it came with a compressor. You might be able to download an instruction manual and see

 

[slowmover]

Auxiliary Air Pump (12V) as shown in brochure.

Single post with pics & links:
Steve05 By-Pass Oil Filter?

Another approach: Frantz or Refiner.
Single post with pics & links:
05 "dirty" oil

Post in thread 'Frantz as a fuel filter?'
More @GaryK7GLD on BITOG. (Non-CR application; almost any fluid system).

.

 

[sdowney717]

If you use a BD7317 dual flow filter, you get a built in 'bypass', but all the oil goes to the bearings. Dual flow means 2 filters in one can. 20 micron for one and 5 micron for the other.
About 15% of the oil is diverted to the 5 micron side of that filter.

I use that. And I also added a toilet paper filter I made from a Ford 8N tractor filter housing.

This was a project idea, it seems to work fine.

Ford tractor 8N oil canister converted to TP filter

36 new items added to shared album

photos.app.goo.gl

On top the OEM oil filter housing on the engine is a plug that is a pressure source for oil.
The drain, it uses the second turbo oil drain low on the block, The 5.9 has 2 drains for 2 turbos, one has a plug. I used that to drain oil from the bypass back to the engine.

The SS grate plate came from a thrift shop from a vegetable steamer. I drilled and tapped a hole on the bottom below the grate for the return.

Oil pressure enters the bottom center fitting, runs up the inner tube and exits out a very small hole in the tube side. Oil fills up the are on top the paper, and filters thru the paper to the bottom grate and exits my drilled hole back to the block.

I used 2 tubes inside. The smaller tube forces the bigger tube down onto the rubber sealing washer. You have make a large central tube with a soldered on large washer at its bottom and seal it to the inside with a rubber washer, it sits on an OEM formed in step on the OEM small inner tube. And also that cylinder grabs the paper at the top. That center area fills with engine oil and comes out and flows over the top of the paper. To make the large cylinder tube, it came from a brass sink drain pipe, A large steel washer soldered on the base. At the top was a tomato can with a large hole cut and soldered it to the brass tube.

 

[BFD]

I’ve done that too. Most old engines, if they even had an oil filter, it was a bypass.

 

[sdowney717]

The black color of engine oil is sub 1 micron soot, bypass filters dont catch that. But such a small particle does not cause wear, it is way smaller than bearing clearances. More like the size of bacteria. As a bypass filter slowly plugs itself with debris, it actually filters better, but the oil flow slows down too slow to be useful. When it does not heat up well, you know it needs changing. Don't know if a pressure gauge would be useful indicator, the engine oil pump keeps up the pressure and is itself regulated by a spring loaded relief valve.

Best thing is setup a schedule to change it. But not as often as an main filter, maybe go twice the miles? or more?

 

[5.7 Hemi]

Amsoil says 70k on their EABP line of bypass filters.