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So then here’s another question: Is there any form of plastic in the condenser where the line from the evap core meets it? Here’s a picture of the condenser:

And here is the line where it looks like the orifice tube is:



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that cross looking thing is the ofrice tube. You should only have one.

If the liquid line has one (looks like it does) you should discard it. You should be able to remove it easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
that cross looking thing is the ofrice tube. You should only have one.

If the liquid line has one (looks like it does) you should discard it. You should be able to remove it easily.
Discard the one from the condenser I assume? I tried some needle nose pliers, but stopped because it didn’t come out easily.


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Well technically speaking you have the wrong liquid line. 94-97 trucks have the orfice tube in the condenser outlet like yours has. That liquid line is for a 98+. Easy solution would be to remove the orifice tube from the condenser or get a new line, up to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
How do you remove the tube? I played with it a bit the other day, and needle nose pliers didn’t seem to make it budge.


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Your confusing me.

When you replace one or two components you need to replace the oil that comes out.

When replacing EVERYTHING you really should put the factory fill spec in the compressor (thats how the trucks were built). You should turn the compressor to distribute the oil.

Ive never heard of a compressor failing from too much oil, but too much oil will reduce performance. I followed the factory service manual.
I'll try to clarify.

You are correct that too much oil will reduce performance. Following the FSM spec for oil type/viscosity and quantity is the way to go, unless the compressor manufacturer for some reason specified something else. And turning the compressor to distribute the oil is recommended too, in what I researched.

Is the confusion coming from the part about distributing some of the oil from the compressor to the accumulator? The Denso tech guy said you really don't want to try to work the full oil charge through the compressor at one time. A couple of ounces turned through by hand slowly isn't a problem. His words. His recommendation was to put some in the accumulator and some in the condenser if possible. The idea being that you are pre-distributing the oil where it's going to go anyway in the normal course of operation. I've heard (from my brother in law - professional ASE cert. auto tech and AC guy for decades) and read many times about dividing the oil between the compressor and accumulator (dividing between accumulator and compressor appeared frequently in my reading). The part about pre-positioning oil in the condenser or on the other side of the condenser from the compressor was a new one to me - the Denso guy's reasoning was you don't want it where it will drain back down into the compressor from the output side before initial startup (the slugging risk, again).

The reason for putting some of the oil in the accumulator during assembly seems pretty clear. The accumulator exists to provide a ready reserve of refrigerant and oil close to the compressor. If you hand turn the entire oil charge through the compressor, it's sitting there on the discharge side just outside the compressor and will have to travel completely around the rest of the system before any of it gets back to the compressor, leaving the compressor without oil during that time. But if oil is already in the accumulator, it will get there much sooner as the refrigerant flow picks it up. Think of it like prefilling your oil filter.

I hope this clarifies the earlier post - kind of the sum of reading (including FSM, as you did), conversations with experienced techs, and thinking about the how the system works and how what they recommend works within the system.
 

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My suggestion for ac work is to replace everything, and refill everything to spec. That's what i did to my 98 and 94. Both work perfectly. You never know how much oil, leak stop, garbage, air, humidity has been added to an old system.

I also cannot emphasize enough to use virgin R134A. Any shop will give you recycled garbage with oil, leak stop, and trash in it...
 

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Discussion Starter #27
So just try to remove the orifice tube in the condenser again with needle nose pliers? lol


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I mean yes, it should be removable.
If it were me I would leave it alone and get the correct liquid line
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Well it came as kit (compressor, liquid line, and accumulator), so I’d probably have to send the whole thing back to Rock Auto. And I’ve had it since April.


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A new liquid line is less than $20, you bought (or were sold) the wrong parts so I dont know what how else to help you.

In my own experience anything in a "kit" has never worked In my favor or saved me any kind of money.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Yeah. I’m usually happy with Rock Auto. And still, they haven’t done me wrong. A little more info. on the parts would have been nice. But the parts are quality. Thanks for the help with identifying stuff though. The truck didn’t have AC when I bought it (everything minus the condenser was installed though), and none of my previous vehicles ever had it. So I had no idea what to look for.


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The orifice tube has an oring that is causing the friction making it difficult to pull. It will come out, pull harder.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I forgot to update. I wound up being able to twist it and it came right out!


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