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Discussion Starter #1
Will be pulling it apart to check it out, maybe tomorrow.

Drove all the way up to the yard in Indiana without issue, or at least none that I noticed.

Picked the trailer up and headed south, along the way I could hear some noise coming from the left front wheel, very pronounced whenever the wheel is turned even slightly to the right.

Is a scratching high pitched grinding swirling sound.

So, I have either found out what the ultimate life of the factory original brake pads is, the factory original bearing hub, or both...:confused:
 

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Will be pulling it apart to check it out, maybe tomorrow.

Drove all the way up to the yard in Indiana without issue, or at least none that I noticed.

Picked the trailer up and headed south, along the way I could hear some noise coming from the left front wheel, very pronounced whenever the wheel is turned even slightly to the right.

Is a scratching high pitched grinding swirling sound.

So, I have either found out what the ultimate life of the factory original brake pads is, the factory original bearing hub, or both...:confused:
My truck is closing in on 90k km. And the other day I peaked at brake pads and was surprised how much material was on them. Like new.
 

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My Guesstimate would be bearing.Typically when a Bearing goes bad, the sound worsens when you are travelling and turn the wheel around a curve. I have changed many a wheel bearing / hub bearing in my day, and for some reason it is almost ALWAYS the left front that goes first.. The only exception was my Daughters 2012 equinox.. It started growling and whining, and I instinctively pulled the left side and replaced it first.. Noise was still there so when I replaced the right side it fixed it..
 

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When my pads went, there was a high pitched squeal I could only hear when applying the brakes with the windows down and when pulling up to a toll station or next to a wall. Otherwise no sound.

And the last time I had the bearings replaced on another car, the mechanic took it for a test drive first and dramatically swerved back and forth to determine if the bearings were shot. They were, you could hear it.

Sounds to me like bearings.
 

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On my '12, the right wheel hub/bearing assembly shot craps at approx. 69,9xx miles. I had both replaced. @Ltngdrvr Either way, you got a boat load of miles out of either the brake pads or wheel hub/bearing. As @Electrojake said, please keep us updated.
 

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My driver's side bearing went at 40k so I replaced both just to be safe. No idea why so premature. Fluke or bad part who knows.
 

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What’s your mileage now? I dont see that anymore.
 

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Does the noise change significantly when you apply the brakes (even though you never use the brakes, lol)?
Either way, you absolutely got your moneys worth out of either component or both!
 

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What’s your mileage now? I dont see that anymore.
Yeah, the new forum doesn't have the high miles avatar anymore.

523K, noise started about 522K
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Does the noise change significantly when you apply the brakes (even though you never use the brakes, lol)?
Either way, you absolutely got your moneys worth out of either component or both!
No, really only hear the noise when turning the wheel to the right, even just slightly.

Feeling a little puny today, thinking about just taking it over to the shop and letting JR fix it.
 

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Probably a unit bearing. If it goes OUT you will probably loose the rotor and brake pads.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
So, coming back to this thread since the other one got so polluted.

Got one side back together, turns out the pads weren't down to metal on the inside, just that the pad was deteriorated around the edges for some reason and there was a large ridge raised up around the outside edge of the rotor, so as I looked down between the rotor and the backing plate it looked like the pad was down to metal.

Anyway...

When I pulled it down to the rotor, the rotor wouldn't budge from the hub, but no biggie because I was going to replace both anyway. So instead of separating them I just left it be and unbolted the hub from the spindle. And, of course, the hub was not just going to fall out after taking the bolts out. What I found was a brilliant idea on a youtube vid that someone else produced that showed how to get the hub to come loose from the spindle. The trick is that the bolts holding the hub to the spindle have a shoulder on them, like a built in washer on the head, so to get the spindle out, you place a socket and extension on the bolt that you leave loosely screwed into the hub threads, and you wedge that socket and extension up against the end of the axle housing, then you crank the engine up and turn the steering wheel so the spindle turns against the socket and extension sitting on the hub bolt and it pushes the hub out of the spindle, then you turn the wheel back the other way to let it loose, then take the socket and extension and do the same operation on the hub bolt on the opposite side to get that side loose, pull all the hub bolts out and it will then fall right off.

So, I cleaned up the caliper bracket, greased up the slide pins real well and then I reassembled it with the new hub, new rotor and new pads.

This old man's back was screaming from bending over under the fender doing all this so it was time to take a break, come in the house, cool off and have a cold drink!

Pics of the works...





Interesting that the new hubs have caps over the center, covering up the splines for the 4WD axles...






All put back together...
 

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Nice work. The caps might just be for shipping to protect the splines until install.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Nice work. The caps might just be for shipping to protect the splines until install.
Yeah, don't know what the deal is, they list a different hub for 4WD even though this one has the splines. I'm just going to leave the caps, keeps the dirt out.
 

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It wouldn’t be the first time a single part had multiple numbers and multiple prices. A quick check at the autozone website says your 2wheel drive hub its about $40 more than a 4 wheel drive bearing yet as you’ve found both have splined hubs. Curious.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It wouldn’t be the first time a single part had multiple numbers and multiple prices. A quick check at the autozone website says your 2wheel drive hub its about $40 more than a 4 wheel drive bearing yet as you’ve found both have splined hubs. Curious.
Hmm...

Not sure which one you're seeing. The ones I bought were 141 each, looked at 4x4 but they were more, like 205 IIRC.

I am finding that the ABS sensor harness is shorter than the originals, made the right side work but may swap the old one over on the left. Plus I'm having a hell of a time getting the little red release tab on the connector to move. Hate those damn things.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Swapping the sensor over was the thing to do, no issues with length, wish I'd thought about it on the right side. Experience and necessity, the best teachers!
 

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Glad you got her figured. I was hoping the bearings were easier to remove... I cut my teeth on a well worn and very well rusted 2003 2500. Was not aware that the bearing had a straight shoulder and not tapered. The puller began to separate the bearing so we opted for a large chisel and sledge.

It was an epiphany when I read the article about using an extension and the power steering to break it free.
 

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Glad you got her figured. I was hoping the bearings were easier to remove... I cut my teeth on a well worn and very well rusted 2003 2500. Was not aware that the bearing had a straight shoulder and not tapered. The puller began to separate the bearing so we opted for a large chisel and sledge.

It was an epiphany when I read the article about using an extension and the power steering to break it free.
Yeah, I'd have never thought of that trick, it works so well!

The left side did come out easier, mostly just because I had done the other side and had that experience. And, then the new hub almost slid in without any effort.
 
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