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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So i noticed a slight grind/groaning noise at idle that seemed to come and go while idle rpm stayed dead on 750. pulled the belt and started truck and the sound went away. Alternator is making noise while spun by hand and i also noticed that it seems to have a bearing and one way clutch in the pulley. lots i see online have a pulley that id imagine is keyed on the shaft and held on by a nut. any advise on what you guys think i should go with for an alternator is greatly appreciated! i deleted the passanger side battery and grid heater due to a broken battery box and was having trouble locating a replacement so i went with the cheaper option of deleting the battery as a whole. thanks for your time in advance
 

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Swap in a 220a alternator off the newer trucks. Someone just did this an posted a followup in the conversion thread... I will zee if i can find the thread.
 
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Mine is a 2015, my rear barring on the alt was going out.
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I rebuilt it for less than $100 both barrings, the new clutch pulley and the brushes setup. No tax or shipping charges.
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I have never rebuilt one, and it was easy, all done hear at the campground on the picnic table. ( Manic electric motors )
 

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Mine is a 2015, my rear barring on the alt was going out.
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I rebuilt it for less than $100 both barrings, the new clutch pulley and the brushes setup. No tax or shipping charges.
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I have never rebuilt one, and it was easy, all done hear at the campground on the picnic table. ( Manic electric motors )
I have an Alt and Starter rebuild kits on the shelf and intend to rebuild.

I rebuilt my HydroBoast for $15.00. After removing the battery, it was a straight forward job. Much better brakes and no leaks.

Good to read that the Alt is an easy rebuild!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sorry for never getting back with any of you, I appreciate all the information seriously! I definitely got some options here! Definitely sounds like my rear bearing is going on my alternator and am concerned about getting an alternator without the clutched pulley. Heard it stops the belt from squeaking on shut down and I have a built trans that when it shifts I’m concerned the belt may slip on the pulley as well if I don’t end up with a clutched one. Also found my idler pulley above the fan clutch to be roasted. Well the bearing atleast. Looked them up online and they are like 250 for just the bearing. Looks like a bearing out of an idler wheel on a snowmobile. And I can get those for about 10 bucks. Anyone ran into that before? Notice the gap difference where my pick is.
Automotive tire Rim Wood Spoke Automotive wheel system
Automotive tire Wheel Rim Alloy wheel Circle
Motor vehicle Wood Grille Font Brickwork
Automotive tire Rim Wood Spoke Automotive wheel system

Automotive tire Wheel Rim Alloy wheel Circle

Motor vehicle Wood Grille Font Brickwork
 

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Clutched alternator pulley??? Have not heard of that one... Not sure how many miles were on the truck i got mine off of but it has been fine since the install.
 

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I did not need a new clutch pulley, when i rebuilt mine, but went with one just in case, for the rebuilt alt. It was $42 and i kept the old one with the factory rebuilt alt i did, put in the box of the new rebuilt one i bought. I did have to get a $35 tool to remove/install the pulley. Still all total with tool, pulley, barrings, and the brushes setup, it was just under $100 no shipping or taxes charged.. The Ohriely rebuilt one i got, came with a idler pulley installed, looked new, but who knows.

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I did belt and idler pulley last year, or bought the stuff and had it done. I got the stuff local at the NAPA hear, the hole idler set up wasnt that expensive. Also kept the old idler pulley and the belt for a spare.
 

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Not making more engine power,I meant if you need more electrical power ie running power hungry electrical items plow/winch/lights/inverter/amplifiers.
I run DC Power 180 amp for winch/light/radios/inverter
 
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