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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As stated on the subject line.. for those running a constant high pressure valve body on a daily. How long is/did your transmission hold up? I'm running a Georend constant high pressure valve body on a full billet 48re. My rear clutch outer seal decided to say bye bye. I had slippage under hard throttle, so I dropped my transmission to find that issue. Im hoping I won't be replacing lip seals every few years. Could have been a damaged seal during installing? I used the green round plastic to assist in installing the lip seal... no sharp picks or feeler gauge style tools. I also found 2 broken ears on the Bellville spacer (not sure if that's the proper name of that part). Other than that everything looks decent for 2 years of daily driving.

Another option is to drop the valve body pressure. I'm around 800 h.p.... and always ready to play at an instant :D
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I appreciate all the positive comments and constructive criticisms. Aloha gang 馃
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for all the great replies. I ordered the heavy duty Bellville spring kit... too bad shipping was $65 to Hawaii!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
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I spared no expense on the transmission. Went with a master goerend rebuild kit, replace front and rear clutch with with billet retainers, and installed a bolt in case sprag. She drives nice! Shifts nice and firm. Once it's broke in, I'm installing an ATS deep pan. 馃憦馃憦馃憦
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I haven't seen any aftermarket rear drums. I was thinking of going with the billet front drum but was talked out of it by my builder. He said he can fit more clutches in the 48re front drum(8) and has had less issues with the stock than the billet. He said the billet is possibly only needed if you're going to be spinning ~5k rpm or more because if the sprag fails the drum will spin at 2.2x the engine rpm. So the stock drums were tested by TCS to fail around 14k rpm so it will fail at ~6363rpm. I asked about doing the bolt in sprag as well but he has only seen the sprag failure if someone did a neutral drop however if you do the bolt in sprag and the sprag happens to fail still then the case will be ruined as well.

Most important make sure the fluid is full and drive it hard the first 1k-1500 miles to break in the frictions and bands, change the filter. You can reuse the drained fluid except do the last quart but I elected to just put new in.
I meant rear and front clutch retainer. See pic.
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I'm using the bolt in sprag because mines was wiggling in the case. I'm surprised it didn't spin and take out the transmission housing! I do a lot of boosted launches. To be safe, I'll launch manual 1st. I'm still breaking in, thanks for the great insight(y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I used a CRT bolt in sprag with template.


My input shaft is 1 piece billet revmax. The output shaft is a billet TCS. All standard shaft spline count and diameter.

I do 25 psi boosted launches. Lock the converter once the truck moves. I have never broke any hard parts. I've been lucky:LOL:;)

You do 1-2 locked shifts?
Yes, once I roll out in 1st, it's locked. Im running bbi 1.5 injectors, so I'm about 700 - 800 h.p. so...not too high h.p. it will spin all 4 wheels for a second or 2.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
My input shaft looked ok. I was a little concerned, but looks like there is more life on the revmax 1 piece billet input shaft. I had the input shaft since 2010. I took a chance on revmax (they were a new company), and it paned out ok. They are still around and going strong.

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks bro! I love this truck... I daily it on max effort tune (h.p. tuners)... and ready to educate at any stop light :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: . It's hilarious when the v8's think they got it in the bag going heads up with an 8k pound truck. I lost a few races, but won a whole lot more ;).
 
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