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I went with these in the beginning of 2017 (going on 2 years) and they've been great. They're not available anymore but I'm providing a link so you can see the pictures anyway. They never threw an error but they'll react to PWM as displayed in the video in my post prior in this thread.

https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/2013-general-discussion/2490261-alfa-obd-success-2.html#post28864747

Link to bulbs: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DGC885C

I hope this helps.

-Guzzler

Guzzler thanks man it does, I saw this post late and had ordered these for my LED tails, yes they are Canbus ready which doesn't make as much of a difference with Alfa but I thought I'd cover my bases - at $31 delivered I'm not complaining -

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/7440-profile-peak-led-bulbs.html

Can you and/or Xokia answer two dumb questions for me:

-Difference between OBDLink MX and MX+ ------ about $30-35 price difference what am I missing? From what I can tell the MX+ offers live data streaming and thats it?

-Anything else needed to get up and running besides my Samsung tablet, OBDlink device and my security bypass for 2018? One guy mentioned needing a PIN from the dealer on another thread but I'm not sure if he meant for 2018's without this bypass harness -

Thanks guys for all your hard work!
 

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Guzzler thanks man it does, I saw this post late and had ordered these for my LED tails, yes they are Canbus ready which doesn't make as much of a difference with Alfa but I thought I'd cover my bases - at $31 delivered I'm not complaining -

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/7440-profile-peak-led-bulbs.html

Can you and/or Xokia answer two dumb questions for me:

-Difference between OBDLink MX and MX+ ------ about $30-35 price difference what am I missing? From what I can tell the MX+ offers live data streaming and thats it?

-Anything else needed to get up and running besides my Samsung tablet, OBDlink device and my security bypass for 2018? One guy mentioned needing a PIN from the dealer on another thread but I'm not sure if he meant for 2018's without this bypass harness -

Thanks guys for all your hard work!
The MX+ supports iOS, which would be moot for the alfa software.
 

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Guzzler thanks man it does, I saw this post late and had ordered these for my LED tails, yes they are Canbus ready which doesn't make as much of a difference with Alfa but I thought I'd cover my bases - at $31 delivered I'm not complaining -

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/7440-profile-peak-led-bulbs.html

Can you and/or Xokia answer two dumb questions for me:

-Difference between OBDLink MX and MX+ ------ about $30-35 price difference what am I missing? From what I can tell the MX+ offers live data streaming and thats it?

-Anything else needed to get up and running besides my Samsung tablet, OBDlink device and my security bypass for 2018? One guy mentioned needing a PIN from the dealer on another thread but I'm not sure if he meant for 2018's without this bypass harness -

Thanks guys for all your hard work!
MX+ also offers faster reading speeds supposedly. You can live stream data on the LX or MX, I use in conjunction with the android app "Torque Pro" all the time ($5 for the pro version). The pin is required for the RF hub, you will need that in order to change TPS and key fob info.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
One item of note; I have not yet obtained the RF Hub PIN, by adjusting the TPMS I no longer get the flashing warnings, just a single "ding" after engine start. The TPMS screen does note the tires as low, but no longer states to "inflate to 80". For those worried about not being able or unable to obtain their PIN, this eliminates nearly all recurring warnings about low tire pressure, without requiring PIN entry. I've put about 300 miles on it since airing down to 60/50 and have had no indications other than the single "ding" after engine start.
 

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MX+ also offers faster reading speeds supposedly. You can live stream data on the LX or MX, I use in conjunction with the android app "Torque Pro" all the time ($5 for the pro version). The pin is required for the RF hub, you will need that in order to change TPS and key fob info.
Sounds good! For the time being I don't mind the "truck ride" at the stock pressures, I'm sure it helps contribute to the good gas mileage I've been getting - but if I ever wish to change it I'll obtain the PIN - I'll order my MX or MX+ next week, but MX should be fine for my needs.

One item of note; I have not yet obtained the RF Hub PIN, by adjusting the TPMS I no longer get the flashing warnings, just a single "ding" after engine start. The TPMS screen does note the tires as low, but no longer states to "inflate to 80". For those worried about not being able or unable to obtain their PIN, this eliminates nearly all recurring warnings about low tire pressure, without requiring PIN entry. I've put about 300 miles on it since airing down to 60/50 and have had no indications other than the single "ding" after engine start.
This is good to know, as there is a guy on the forum on the other side of the county looking for me to adjust his TPMS threshold once I get my AlfaOBD up and running and I was curious - I will ask him to get the PIN if he can or he may just want to live with the ding -
 

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One item of note; I have not yet obtained the RF Hub PIN, by adjusting the TPMS I no longer get the flashing warnings, just a single "ding" after engine start. The TPMS screen does note the tires as low, but no longer states to "inflate to 80". For those worried about not being able or unable to obtain their PIN, this eliminates nearly all recurring warnings about low tire pressure, without requiring PIN entry. I've put about 300 miles on it since airing down to 60/50 and have had no indications other than the single "ding" after engine start.
For me, without flashing a reset to the RF-HUB, I did "see" the updated thresholds but the yellow tire pressure warning and the red tires on the graph (fancy 7" display) in the dash were still present. Without flashing to the RF-HUB for me, Nothing changed other than seeing the new numbers. I lowered the threshold to 30 psi and had 42 psi and was still getting warnings, etc... until I flashed a reset to the RF-HUB...

-Guzzler
 

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So I wanted to blow $30 and "test" the "Enable High Intensity Discharge Headlights" toggle in the Body controller. So I bought the absolute cheapest set of bulbs and ballasts with no harnesses, capacitors, resistors or other "smoothing" devices. What I bought was the worst of the worst crap -- just to see if the $300 kits from all the fancy RAM vendors are now 100% unecessary for compatibility reasons.

My preliminary findings -- The $300+ kits are now unnecessary with alfaobd.

My simple test -- find a ballast small enough to stuff in the case and close the dust cover without modifying. No cutting, grommets, mounting, etc... Just shove the stuff in and call it done.

It works. It just works. You can go with any cheapie crap HID kit (AND take the inherent risk that the ballast will fail in 6 hours, LOL) and run with it if you choose. I'm attaching pictures -- very basic.

This is something I would have never thought possible with a 2013+ RAM truck.

I really don't think the fancy HID vendors with their "5th gen super GT can-bus" ballasts (roll eyes), super duper wiring harnesses (that look like something from the dark ages), capacitors and resistors want us to know that for $49 worth of software we can shut down the bulb out checking (by enabling High Intensity Discharge Lights) and just run with it. That would really take a bite out of their business model.

Something to think about. Alfaobd appears to be a game-changer for the HID market itself (NOT just LED's).

Sure you can buy the expensive kits for their inherent quality -- where it exists -- but not because you HAVE TO BUY them to circumvent PWM and Circuit disabling -- any more! :)

I do have one question for my LED headlight friends -- we know enabling LED on the other circuits (FOG, Reverse, license plate, etc....) disables PWM. Does it do the same for the LOW-BEAM circuit? Does "enable High Intensity Discharge Headlights" disable PWM as well as bulb out resistance or JUST bulb out resistance? If it's the latter, I'd do them in tandem and be sure that PWM isn't hitting my ballast... If I had LED bulbs to test, I'd set it for enable High Intensity Discharge Headlights but NOT enable LED Low Beams. Then run the LED's and view through my phones camera photo-sensor and see if the LED's are cycling. IF they are, those with HID's might want to do both to be sure that PWM isn't still hitting their ballast even though the HID setting has turned off the bulb out warning.

-Guzzler
 

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NICE! So far I have:




  1. Enabled LED for license plate bulbs (can see via backup cam photo sensor they're not cycling anymore)
  2. Enabled LED for fog lights bulbs (can see via phone photo sensor they're not cycling anymore)
  3. Enabled DRL and set to USE LED turn signals (have factory projectors -- very bright). Played with FOGS as DRL but went with turn signal LED's as DRL's because I can run park lights (DRL's stay on) to fire up the LED fogs and and have the best of both worlds...
  4. Set my tire thresholds to 35 PSI (down from 80 / 60 from the factory on my 2017 2500) as I like to run around 45 PSI
  5. Disabled FOG LIGHT DROPOFF so they stay on with high beams
  6. Enabled Global Down. Global up doesn't seem to work but I read that with https://zautomotive.com/product/tazer-ram/ aka "Tazer" plugged into OBD II 24/7 you can have the equivalent. I'm not so interested in that.


I was asked by a friend if this was possible: Set it so backup lights will illuminate upon unlocking the doors

I didn't see anything I could change for this. Asked on ramforum and was told it might not be an option.

Still searching for more things to tweak. This is quite awesome.

-Guzzler

PS: I'm using this (ANDROID and WINDOWS ONLY) for my OBD II Bluetooth Adapter and it works great: https://smile.amazon.com/Vgate-Scanner-Bluetooth-Version-Diagnostic/dp/B075R62FTH
If you have factory projectors and you had to set your drls to front turn signal, you did it wrong.
Factory projects have a separate wire for drls that run in the harness.
If you really care I can look up for you the actual procedure so that its turned on like the factory does.
 

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If you have factory projectors and you had to set your drls to front turn signal, you did it wrong.
Factory projects have a separate wire for drls that run in the harness.
If you really care I can look up for you the actual procedure so that its turned on like the factory does.
Look it up because it's working great. I didn't HAVE to set them to Turn Signals.

There is a section where you CAN set them to TURN SIGNALS, FOGS, HIGH BEAMS or LOW BEAMS. I SELECTED Turn Signals but it might not have been necessary. I had SELECTED FOGS, and that worked too. Once I wanted to go back to TURN SIGNALS, I had to select it. "DRL as.... "

I sure hope you know what you're talking about. Will be interesting to see what you come up with. I know that the factory setting might not make the turn signal LED's as bright as DRL's. If that's the case, I'm fine with this. Not worried about burning them out. I have more than one set of 2013+ Projector headlights.

-Guzzler
 

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If you have factory projectors and you had to set your drls to front turn signal, you did it wrong.
Factory projects have a separate wire for drls that run in the harness.
If you really care I can look up for you the actual procedure so that its turned on like the factory does.
Look it up because it's working great. I didn't HAVE to set them to Turn Signals.

There is a section where you CAN set them to TURN SIGNALS, FOGS, HIGH BEAMS or LOW BEAMS. I SELECTED Turn Signals but it might not have been necessary. I had SELECTED FOGS, and that worked too. Once I wanted to go back to TURN SIGNALS, I had to select it. "DRL as.... "

I sure hope you know what you're talking about. Will be interesting to see what you come up with. I know that the factory setting might not make the turn signal LED's as bright as DRL's. If that's the case, I'm fine with this. Not worried about burning them out. I have more than one set of 2013+ Projector headlights.

-Guzzler
Oh cool man, I wont bother if you are not worried about burning them out. I would have to do some digging to find it. I had to talk to Jeremy at retro shop and the dealer to figure it out. Essentially if you set drl to turn signals it sends power down the blinker wire which is incorrect because the truck comes with dedicated wire for drls, something with how the can-bus handles the power. I do recall people saying that it is slightly dimmer then blinkers which they are supposed to be.
 

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Oh cool man, I wont bother if you are not worried about burning them out. I would have to do some digging to find it. I had to talk to Jeremy at retro shop and the dealer to figure it out. Essentially if you set drl to turn signals it sends power down the blinker wire which is incorrect because the truck comes with dedicated wire for drls, something with how the can-bus handles the power. I do recall people saying that it is slightly dimmer then blinkers which they are supposed to be.
I read the same on the ramforum.

I think I've set mine in this section:

DRL Configuration:
DRL Lamp Location:
DRL Dropout Enable:

I like the flexibility it provides -- even if it's not limited by the factory paradigm.


I think you're suggesting I set this:

Control-Dedicated DRL: or LED Dedicated DRL Present:

-Guzzler
 

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Oh cool man, I wont bother if you are not worried about burning them out. I would have to do some digging to find it. I had to talk to Jeremy at retro shop and the dealer to figure it out. Essentially if you set drl to turn signals it sends power down the blinker wire which is incorrect because the truck comes with dedicated wire for drls, something with how the can-bus handles the power. I do recall people saying that it is slightly dimmer then blinkers which they are supposed to be.
I read the same on the ramforum.

I think I've set mine in this section:

DRL Configuration:
DRL Lamp Location:
DRL Dropout Enable:

I like the flexibility it provides -- even if it's not limited by the factory paradigm.


I think you're suggesting I set this:

Control-Dedicated DRL: or LED Dedicated DRL Present:

-Guzzler
Found it from when I posted on ramfourm

CBC I/O right dedicated DRL Lamp output present- YES
CBC I/O left dedicated DRL Lamp output present- YES
CBC DRL config- OPTIONAL DRL
CBC features- DRL lamp location- DEDICATED
CBC features- DRL dropout enable- YES
CBC Features LED deicated DRL present- YES
ECU config- DRL customer setting enable/disable- YES
Daytime Running lights CSM- YES
 

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Just FYI to any that doesn't follow the thread on Ram forum. There appears to be an issue with the app crashing for some on the new version that was released on Sunday (2.1.6.3) so I would advise against letting it update if it hasn't already. Mine auto updated so too late for me. I'm sure the developer will be right on it since several have reported it to him already.


.
 

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Found it from when I posted on ramfourm

CBC I/O right dedicated DRL Lamp output present- YES
CBC I/O left dedicated DRL Lamp output present- YES
CBC DRL config- OPTIONAL DRL
CBC features- DRL lamp location- DEDICATED
CBC features- DRL dropout enable- YES
CBC Features LED deicated DRL present- YES
ECU config- DRL customer setting enable/disable- YES
Daytime Running lights CSM- YES
does this change the power sent to the turn signal for DRL?
does it mimic the factory setting?
I assume trucks that did not have DRLs from the factory do not have the extra dedicated wire in the harness, or do they and it is not utilized until the DRLs are programmed?
thanks
 

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does this change the power sent to the turn signal for DRL?
does it mimic the factory setting?
I assume trucks that did not have DRLs from the factory do not have the extra dedicated wire in the harness, or do they and it is not utilized until the DRLs are programmed?
thanks
Those of us with the quad headlights do not have the extra wire for the DRL. But what we do is select Fog, High Beam, Low Beam, or Turn signal for the DRL Location since dedicated uses that line that we do not have. Not sure about the dedicated line but I know I use the high beams and they are at a lower voltage.

.
 

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So I wanted to blow $30 and "test" the "Enable High Intensity Discharge Headlights" toggle in the Body controller. So I bought the absolute cheapest set of bulbs and ballasts with no harnesses, capacitors, resistors or other "smoothing" devices. What I bought was the worst of the worst crap -- just to see if the $300 kits from all the fancy RAM vendors are now 100% unecessary for compatibility reasons.

My preliminary findings -- The $300+ kits are now unnecessary with alfaobd.

My simple test -- find a ballast small enough to stuff in the case and close the dust cover without modifying. No cutting, grommets, mounting, etc... Just shove the stuff in and call it done.

It works. It just works. You can go with any cheapie crap HID kit (AND take the inherent risk that the ballast will fail in 6 hours, LOL) and run with it if you choose. I'm attaching pictures -- very basic.

This is something I would have never thought possible with a 2013+ RAM truck.

I really don't think the fancy HID vendors with their "5th gen super GT can-bus" ballasts (roll eyes), super duper wiring harnesses (that look like something from the dark ages), capacitors and resistors want us to know that for $49 worth of software we can shut down the bulb out checking (by enabling High Intensity Discharge Lights) and just run with it. That would really take a bite out of their business model.

Something to think about. Alfaobd appears to be a game-changer for the HID market itself (NOT just LED's).

Sure you can buy the expensive kits for their inherent quality -- where it exists -- but not because you HAVE TO BUY them to circumvent PWM and Circuit disabling -- any more! :)

I do have one question for my LED headlight friends -- we know enabling LED on the other circuits (FOG, Reverse, license plate, etc....) disables PWM. Does it do the same for the LOW-BEAM circuit? Does "enable High Intensity Discharge Headlights" disable PWM as well as bulb out resistance or JUST bulb out resistance? If it's the latter, I'd do them in tandem and be sure that PWM isn't hitting my ballast... If I had LED bulbs to test, I'd set it for enable High Intensity Discharge Headlights but NOT enable LED Low Beams. Then run the LED's and view through my phones camera photo-sensor and see if the LED's are cycling. IF they are, those with HID's might want to do both to be sure that PWM isn't still hitting their ballast even though the HID setting has turned off the bulb out warning.

-Guzzler
Absolutely phenomenal testing Guzzler - I'm so glad that after years of people hooking up what looks like a damn space harness on the vehicle with 4-8 resistors mounted and extra capacitors etc all over the damn truck, that we have figured out how to PROPERLY change lighting on these trucks with no increased fire or melting risk etc -

I always recommend using a standard relay harness (can be had for $20-30 with dual weatherproof relays) if your truck or vehicle did not come with factory xenon lighting, just as the battery delivers smoother power upon startup - however its not necessary.

I'm glad you tested the el cheapo kits ($30 can't beat it!) - sure its a gamble to see when those ballasts will fail, and the optics and quality of the bulbs isn't the best, but it works - At least you know now that you can get a set of quality bulbs and ballasts, and optionally a relay harness if you wanted, and run HID's reliably now for years to come, as they were intended to be run, and not just "workarounds" with a ton of extra hardware mounted all over the place -

---So you said once you flashed the RF HUB for the TPMS threshold, all warnings, EVIC msg etc disappeared and just showed the new pressures at all 4 corners (no red tires) etc? Was debating lowering mine and wanted to confirm - I'm happy as is and need to research how much mpg I might sacrifice for a slightly cushier ride when unloaded -
 

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---So you said once you flashed the RF HUB for the TPMS threshold, all warnings, EVIC msg etc disappeared and just showed the new pressures at all 4 corners (no red tires) etc? Was debating lowering mine and wanted to confirm - I'm happy as is and need to research how much mpg I might sacrifice for a slightly cushier ride when unloaded -
Yes, once you change the thresholds in the BCM you need to go to the RF hub and do the Reset/Replace procedure (requires the vehicle PIN) and you should be good to go.

.
 

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Found it from when I posted on ramfourm

CBC I/O right dedicated DRL Lamp output present- YES
CBC I/O left dedicated DRL Lamp output present- YES
CBC DRL config- OPTIONAL DRL
CBC features- DRL lamp location- DEDICATED
CBC features- DRL dropout enable- YES
CBC Features LED deicated DRL present- YES
ECU config- DRL customer setting enable/disable- YES
Daytime Running lights CSM- YES
Thanks for confirming. Will save the 411 for future reference.

I like the flexibility of not using the dedicated DRL circuit so I can change the output to fogs, turn signal, high beam or low beam. But I understand doing it "manually" as I am, it makes the turn signals a bit brighter if that option is selected. My understanding is and it's interesting to note that if you have Quad Headlamps or added Projector headlamps AFTER delivery, you don't have the dedicated circuit anyway...

I don't believe this is a "correct" vs. "incorrect" issue -- It's a factory vs. custom issue and I don't like the limits of the factory DRL paradigm with factory projectors -- assuming I'm understanding all the factors correctly.

-Guzzler
 

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Just FYI to any that doesn't follow the thread on Ram forum. There appears to be an issue with the app crashing for some on the new version that was released on Sunday (2.1.6.3) so I would advise against letting it update if it hasn't already. Mine auto updated so too late for me. I'm sure the developer will be right on it since several have reported it to him already.


.
Yes -- It sucks. I've emailed the authors and I've gotten a read-receipt on the emails. I also posted on Good Play Store under reviews. I think some people don't realize you have to try to make changes to the body controller setting and save them before it will crash so there are false reports of it working. Hopefully they'll have a fix soon.

-Guzzler

UPDATE: Just as I was typing this I received the following email:

"Will publish the fix tonight, sorry!

Best regards,

Alexey Chernikov

AlfaOBD"
 

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So I wanted to blow $30 and "test" the "Enable High Intensity Discharge Headlights" toggle in the Body controller. So I bought the absolute cheapest set of bulbs and ballasts with no harnesses, capacitors, resistors or other "smoothing" devices. What I bought was the worst of the worst crap -- just to see if the $300 kits from all the fancy RAM vendors are now 100% unecessary for compatibility reasons.

My preliminary findings -- The $300+ kits are now unnecessary with alfaobd.

My simple test -- find a ballast small enough to stuff in the case and close the dust cover without modifying. No cutting, grommets, mounting, etc... Just shove the stuff in and call it done.

It works. It just works. You can go with any cheapie crap HID kit (AND take the inherent risk that the ballast will fail in 6 hours, LOL) and run with it if you choose. I'm attaching pictures -- very basic.

This is something I would have never thought possible with a 2013+ RAM truck.

I really don't think the fancy HID vendors with their "5th gen super GT can-bus" ballasts (roll eyes), super duper wiring harnesses (that look like something from the dark ages), capacitors and resistors want us to know that for $49 worth of software we can shut down the bulb out checking (by enabling High Intensity Discharge Lights) and just run with it. That would really take a bite out of their business model.

Something to think about. Alfaobd appears to be a game-changer for the HID market itself (NOT just LED's).

Sure you can buy the expensive kits for their inherent quality -- where it exists -- but not because you HAVE TO BUY them to circumvent PWM and Circuit disabling -- any more! <img src="http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />

I do have one question for my LED headlight friends -- we know enabling LED on the other circuits (FOG, Reverse, license plate, etc....) disables PWM. Does it do the same for the LOW-BEAM circuit? Does "enable High Intensity Discharge Headlights" disable PWM as well as bulb out resistance or JUST bulb out resistance? If it's the latter, I'd do them in tandem and be sure that PWM isn't hitting my ballast... If I had LED bulbs to test, I'd set it for enable High Intensity Discharge Headlights but NOT enable LED Low Beams. Then run the LED's and view through my phones camera photo-sensor and see if the LED's are cycling. IF they are, those with HID's might want to do both to be sure that PWM isn't still hitting their ballast even though the HID setting has turned off the bulb out warning.

-Guzzler
Some of your questions I have answered previously. https://www.cumminsforum.com/#/topics/2486949

In short setting the low beams to LED does NOT shut off the PWM. Yes you could plug in just about any HID kit. The one thing you aren’t realizing is that the startup current for most HID kits is around 10amps. This could lead to you having to replace your TIPM in the future. I would recommend a relay harness for any HID ballast other the Morimoto which has a low startup current JMO.

You no longer need a canbus ballast or capacitor and resistor. You can still use that stuff it’s just not needed once you change the setting in AlfaOBD.
 
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