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Yeah you're likely not going to notice anything performance wise, for the reasons that are mentioned above. Really, reasons come down to sound, looks, MAYBE some performance gains if you're going bigger all around. That being said, the PO of my truck had a home-made version of a CAI on there that was nice, but during my last front end tear apart I decided to go back to something that was completely enclosed.

I did some research and settled on the AFE Momentum HD:
905722


Fitment was great, easy install, sounds awesome, even better if you have an EB. Another main reason I went with AFE over others was their Pro DryS filter. S&B uses either a disposable or a washable, but the washable version is not dry, it requires it to be oiled, which is no big deal if you do a light coat. The ProDryS is completely dry, reuseable, as well as you can wash it. No oil needed.
I was running this filter on the old DIY intake setup so I figured I'd give their entire system a try since I didn't have an OEM airbox anyway. Pretty happy with it so far.
 

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Looks good. The washable element will save you money. The pre-filter cover is what I used on a BHAF setup on my 24v 5.9. Look at the price banks wants for their elements. Dang.
 

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I did my AFE for sound only. No gains anywhere at all. Looks cool and sounds great. For simplicity, keep OEM as it works just fine.
 
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Yeah you're likely not going to notice anything performance wise, for the reasons that are mentioned above. Really, reasons come down to sound, looks, MAYBE some performance gains if you're going bigger all around. That being said, the PO of my truck had a home-made version of a CAI on there that was nice, but during my last front end tear apart I decided to go back to something that was completely enclosed.

I did some research and settled on the AFE Momentum HD:
View attachment 905722

Fitment was great, easy install, sounds awesome, even better if you have an EB. Another main reason I went with AFE over others was their Pro DryS filter. S&B uses either a disposable or a washable, but the washable version is not dry, it requires it to be oiled, which is no big deal if you do a light coat. The ProDryS is completely dry, reuseable, as well as you can wash it. No oil needed.
I was running this filter on the old DIY intake setup so I figured I'd give their entire system a try since I didn't have an OEM airbox anyway. Pretty happy with it so far.

That does look good but the price of those is beyond what I think those are worth.

I'm still not sold on dry washable air filters. How can you get the dry filter totally clean?
Is there a cleaning solution for them?

I've used a conical AFE Pro-guard 7 oiled air filter on my truck for over 10 years.
And K & N oiled air filters on our gas engine vehicles for 30 years.
With the cleaning solution you can really get them clean. Plus you nicely re-oil them.

I must admit that I bought K & N dry washable cabin air filters a few month ago for both our gas engine vehicles.
We'll see how those go but much less critical than an engine air filter. :)
 

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cleaning filters, specially oil filters, is the worst thing you can do if they are only somewhat dirty. The dirtier an oiled filter gets the better it filters. Not to mention the cheap cotton media in a K&N degrades the more you wash it regardless of what you clean it with.

K&N is the worst rated filter on the market for being a...filter lol.

I have a dry aFe filter and I haven't had to clean it yet and some 30K miles and on a dirt road.
 

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You have to weigh the pros and cons. Most "cold air intakes" actually suck hot air, so depending on the time of year and how hot they hurt mpg.
With air intake temps at ~100* & up, mpg goes up. The flow thru the box also affects mpg, best said this way...

with all things being the same, engine state, rpms tuning ambient environmental conditions... with "not so cheap airbox mod" aka exhaust dump valve in 2 states,

  • Valve closed & mpg peaks
  • Valve open fully, (3" in my case) & mpg drops
That simulates to a point what a CAI will do with airflow. The bottom end torque clearly drops off with the valve open 100%. As far as intake temps being hot with the CAI, the temps will rise faster at stop lights with the CAI over the stock box. Once your moving airflow into the engine compartment will wash out a good amount of the hot air. Unless your setup is like mine and the air inlet on the PS of the truck is blocked for mpg reasons.

My expectation is that if a CAI is installed and a retune is done to leverage it, mpg would still be lower on my truck (manual trans). The bottom end torque being restored would require more fuel to get it back to the same. ONe of these days I may give it a shot and put back in my stage 2 afe kit and retune it to find out first hand.

ONe comment on the valve on the bottom of the airbox... it sure is sweet to be cruising at 2400~2500 (75-80 mph) rpms and open it up. I have seen the calc load drop on the fly (flat stretch of road). Its not a huge amount but it tells me the flow thru the box is changing the steady state hp/tq output with the valve change.
 

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Keep the OEM unless you’re planning on running a bigger or multiple turbos that need more air.
 
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