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Aftermarket Fuel Filter/Water Separator?

26749 Views 117 Replies 19 Participants Last post by Destroked 450, Jan 9, 2021

Stox225

Discussion Starter · Nov 15, 2016 (Edited)

So aside from a FASS or another electric version which also replaces the stock LP, I'm wondering if any one has any creative methods of REPLACING the stock filter/separator? Looking in the back corner of my driver-side engine compartment ... it's a fustercluck. I want to keep my stock LP and possibly relocate my filter/separator to the frame rail, or the inner wheel well. I was wondering what others may have done. I have zero fab skills (because I've never been exposed to it) so I'm looking for more of a "bolt on" method. If people know of solid aftermarket filters, certainly throw those out there as well. I'm sure this is something that's been annoying us 12v owners since this trucks existence. Let this be an idea thread as well. As you develop something, throw it up here for the world to see. Maybe this could be a sticky one day!

So I've read through D89's fuel system write up and he stream lines it. I more or less followed his guide (minus the regulator for now) except the fuel filter. Something I didn't deem necessary at the time to rework. Well, I'm going back under the knife to rework a few things with my fuel, and I was thinking ... there's gotta be a better spot! With all the lines I have running from the AFC (AFC Live), EGT Probe, FP wires, and boost gauge, it's EXTREMELY tight to get in there. I don't want to imagine my next fuel filter change.

So any ideas, comments, suggestions, or if you want to tell me to shove it because I'm and idiot and this problem has already been solved, feel free to post it on up. :thumbup:

:thumbup:

Build thread starts here:
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/9...el-filter-water-separator-8.html#post26400066

1 - 20 of 118 Posts

GAmes

· #2 · Nov 15, 2016

There used to be a relocation bracket sold by Genos, and other fine stores, called the Prime-Loc. At $200 apiece, they didn't sell well since the average person changes their filter about once a year, maybe. You might be able to find one on e-bay or Craigs list. Although it is a PITA, and I change filters about once a month, I still wouldn't get one.

Nadir Point

· #3 · Nov 15, 2016

Stox225 said:
I'm wondering if any one has any creative methods of REPLACING the stock filter/separator?

Why "replace" it? More filtration is never a bad thing. Add a unit either up or downstream of it. Finer filter downstream to reduce wear, F/W separator upstream to stave off contaminated fuel. Or both, like I did. :wink2:

alanack6795

· #4 · Nov 15, 2016

I had a prime loc on my truck, it's nice but it kinda blocks the injection pump. Looks cool though. I still have it if your interested

I discovered that removing the 2 mounting nuts for the master cylinder gives you plenty of room to get the filter out.

Hydroboost trucks are much easier to deal with, however I perfer the spin on filter setup

Stox225

Discussion Starter · #5 · Nov 15, 2016

GAmes said:
There used to be a relocation bracket sold by Genos, and other fine stores, called the Prime-Loc. At $200 apiece, they didn't sell well since the average person changes their filter about once a year, maybe. You might be able to find one on e-bay or Craigs list. Although it is a PITA, and I change filters about once a month, I still wouldn't get one.

Googled it. Looks pretty cool, but I can totally see how that would be in the way. Plus, for those of us who don't have stock intake horns, or a dual intake horn I can't see that working too well. Nice easy access though.

Nadir Point said:
Why "replace" it? More filtration is never a bad thing. Add a unit either up or downstream of it. Finer filter downstream to reduce wear, F/W separator upstream to stave off contaminated fuel. Or both, like I did. :wink2:

I'm planning on adding a water separator on my frame rail because I have a sump. I want to replace the stock one solely because it's a PITA to get to check for leaks for me. I'd like something simpler off to the side.

alanack6795 said:
I had a prime loc on my truck, it's nice but it kinda blocks the injection pump. Looks cool though. I still have it if your interested

I discovered that removing the 2 mounting nuts for the master cylinder gives you plenty of room to get the filter out.

Hydroboost trucks are much easier to deal with, however I perfer the spin on filter setup

I'll pass lol. If/when I have the time, I'm going to start experimenting with filters.

My main concern is the injector return line. Will I need a certain kind of filter because of that line? I have the Vulcan kit installed and the injector return line is plumbed into the supply line from the LP to the filter. Doesn't seem like I would need to do anything crazy. Seems like I could just plug that into the new supply end of the filter. I could be over thinking things here which, in my experience, has never been a bad thing lol. I just feel like there are better filters out there than the stock on. AND it can be in a better location. Just had a baby a month and a half ago, so bare with me as I forgo this experiment!

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MuckFarmer

· #6 · Nov 16, 2016

I got this kit off of ebay to put a water separator and 2 micron filter on the frame, works real nice, quality is decent, uses donaldson filters. I think it was like $120. Did a sump at the same time. Ran 1/2" rubber line all the way to IP, has a little electric pump feeding 10psi to factory lift pump which I replaced at the same time. I'd do it again.

Stox225

Discussion Starter · #7 · Nov 16, 2016

MuckFarmer said:
I got this kit off of ebay to put a water separator and 2 micron filter on the frame, works real nice, quality is decent, uses donaldson filters. I think it was like $120. Did a sump at the same time. Ran 1/2" rubber line all the way to IP, has a little electric pump feeding 10psi to factory lift pump which I replaced at the same time. I'd do it again.

So from there it runs to the LP and then to the IP? What do they flow? I am trying to stay away from electric hook ups on the battery. I hate a clustered battery. Next move is a power block I think.

Another issue I'm having is that my stock LP with the 973-1 spring in, but at WOT I lose app FP AND I HAVE IT SET AT 80 PSI! I ruled out the air leak, so now I'm thinking that my LP can't keep up with me IP because of flow restrictions. So I need to minimize that as much as possible.

DanG144

· #8 · Nov 16, 2016

On other applications, I have kept it cheap, using
Catalogs

Many filters and water separators fit these inexpensive bases.

Reactions: 1

MuckFarmer

· #9 · Nov 16, 2016

From the filters it runs to the electric booster pump then the factory lift pump then the IP. Not sure on flow but I get about 22psi at idle, 34psi at 2k rpm and the guahe doesn't drop if I mash the pedal. That's with a Tork Tek adjustable ofv at whatever setting it came with. For electrical power I have a big tractor relay bolted to my fender that closes with key power, my aftermarket stuff runs off that. The electric pump is optional but it added about 8psi at the IP and it saved my butt on a few wicked cold days when my fuel wanted to gel.

Reactions: 1

MuckFarmer

· #10 · Nov 16, 2016

Also never heard of running different springs in factory LP, how does that work and where to get them?

Stox225

Discussion Starter · #11 · Nov 16, 2016

MuckFarmer said:
Also never heard of running different springs in factory LP, how does that work and where to get them?

It's the same concept as stiffer valve springs. It'll keep the LP from "floating" at higher RPMS to a certain extent. Keeps the plunger in contact with the cam a little better. I got mine from JEGS. You can Google it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

renopker

· #12 · Nov 17, 2016

alanack6795 said:
I had a prime loc on my truck, it's nice but it kinda blocks the injection pump. Looks cool though. I still have it if your interested

I discovered that removing the 2 mounting nuts for the master cylinder gives you plenty of room to get the filter out.

Hydroboost trucks are much easier to deal with, however I perfer the spin on filter setup

I used the prime loc head.

See less See more

Reactions: 2

alanack6795

· #13 · Nov 17, 2016

renopker said:
I used the prime loc head.

Looks like you kept the same general area, Ive considered cannibalizing mine to move it somewhere else, but between the Master cylinder, 4WABS valve, fuse box and battery there isn't much room over there

renopker

· #14 · Nov 17, 2016

alanack6795 said:
Looks like you kept the same general area, Ive considered cannibalizing mine to move it somewhere else, but between the Master cylinder, 4WABS valve, fuse box and battery there isn't much room over there

Old pic I have even less room now, wrong I have no room anymore

MuckFarmer

· #15 · Nov 17, 2016

Stox225 said:
It's the same concept as stiffer valve springs. It'll keep the LP from "floating" at higher RPMS to a certain extent. Keeps the plunger in contact with the cam a little better. I got mine from JEGS. You can Google it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cool!:thumbsup: Guessing I probably won't need this till after my 4k gov springs though. Gots to get my tranny in before anything else now. :banghead:

:banghead:

Stox225

Discussion Starter · #16 · Nov 17, 2016

renopker said:
I used the prime loc head.

Man that's a tight squeeze! Where do you have the base mounted to? Did you delete the stock filter?

alanack6795 said:
Looks like you kept the same general area, Ive considered cannibalizing mine to move it somewhere else, but between the Master cylinder, 4WABS valve, fuse box and battery there isn't much room over there

That's why I was thinking on the frame rail. Remove the stock filter/separator all together and put one in before the LP. I'm gunna go that route I'm sure. Double filter it.

MuckFarmer said:
Cool!:thumbsup: Guessing I probably won't need this till after my 4k gov springs though. Gots to get my tranny in before anything else now.

It's not a difficult or expensive upgrade. The inlet for the LP screws off and the spring is right there. Once I had the LP off and got it in a vice, it took me no more than a couple minutes to swap the two springs.

DanG144

· #17 · Nov 17, 2016 (Edited)

I think that I used a fleetguard FS19596 for a water separator, it has a WIF capability and a drain. Or you can buy the same water separator filter without the WIF hookup, just the drain. You can manifold those cheap WIX24770 filter bases together with pipe nipples (you will need to use a mounting block (piece of wood or metal to make a standoff) so the outlet port of one feeds the inlet port of the second and the base of the offset filter mount will bolt through the standoff to the frame rail).

I ran a Caterpillar 2micron for a final filter, 1R-0750. These CAT 2 micron filters come in several lengths.

With those two filters on my 97 (if I ever got around to modifying it) I would not hesitate to remove the present fuel filter. They have been working for years on the application I mounted them on.

There is a guy on this site that has an exhaustive thread on filter setups, seems as if his username was a helicopter....
here it is. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3...ilters-gdp-w-cat-2-micron-fuel-water-sep.html

More on that water separator: https://catalog.cumminsfiltration.c...ter Separator&Part=-&criteria=part&_locale=en

The CAT 2 micron is widely used on many diesel applications.

Stox225

Discussion Starter · #18 · Nov 17, 2016

DanG144 said:
I think that I used a fleetguard FS19596 for a water separator, it has a WIF capability and a drain. Or you can buy the same water separator filter without the WIF hookup, just the drain. You can manifold those cheap WIX24770 filter bases together with pipe nipples (you will need to use a mounting block (piece of wood or metal to make a standoff) so the outlet port of one feeds the inlet port of the second and the base of the offset filter mount will bolt through the standoff to the frame rail).

I ran a Caterpillar 2micron for a final filter, 1R-0750. These CAT 2 micron filters come in several lengths.

With those two filters on my 97 (if I ever got around to modifying it) I would not hesitate to remove the present fuel filter. They have been working for years on the application I mounted them on.

There is a guy on this site that has an exhaustive thread on filter setups, seems as if his username was a helicopter....
here it is. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3...ilters-gdp-w-cat-2-micron-fuel-water-sep.html

More on that water separator: https://catalog.cumminsfiltration.c...ter Separator&Part=-&criteria=part&_locale=en

The CAT 2 micron is widely used on many diesel applications.

Nice! Good link to that 3rd Gen. page. Especially liked the Baldwin filter install. Thumbed through a few pages at random. A lot of good information being thrown around in there. Few good pictures of installs, too. Thanks!

GAmes

· #19 · Nov 17, 2016

DanG144 said:
There is a guy on this site that has an exhaustive thread on filter setups, seems as if his username was a helicopter.....

Good old AH-64D. I delivered his unit's first Apache (an AH-64A) to Boise about 24 years ago. I loved flying those things.

Stox225

Discussion Starter · #20 · Nov 21, 2016

So how about ... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-81794/overview/

Any one try this one? Was thinking about putting this before my LP and have my LP feed directly to my IP from there.

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