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Unless we are missing another option, IMO, the AFE rad is the best choice for a 3rd Gen HD rad.

The Griffin rad core is thicker and likely cools better but it's US$1000. Compared to the AFE at US$425 (reg price US$500).
 
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Discussion Starter #25
5 hrs.... whatcha gonna do?
I ordered one, if this doesn't work out im blaming you!!! 0:) carid says quick and easy returns so my plan is once it gets here to open it and look down in the core and see if I can tell if the tubes look smaller or bigger . might be able to even get a tape measure down in there and measure it. On my current rad I can see the core and tube looking down the filler neck. Guess Ill find out :|
 

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I ordered one, if this doesn't work out im blaming you!!! 0:) carid says quick and easy returns so my plan is once it gets here to open it and look down in the core and see if I can tell if the tubes look smaller or bigger . might be able to even get a tape measure down in there and measure it. On my current rad I can see the core and tube looking down the filler neck. Guess Ill find out :|
awesome! Maybe if I take the blame I can get you to pull some comparison measurements from old vs new? I want to know if the custom shroud will fit in there with the fluidampr I have. My goal would be to find out how much core intrudes into the engine compartment vs the oem one. I think I can tolerate about 0.5" of movement of the shroud towards the motor. I think there is approx 1.5~1.75" down there. Will need to measure it.
 

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awesome! Maybe if I take the blame I can get you to pull some comparison measurements from old vs new? I want to know if the custom shroud will fit in there with the fluidampr I have. My goal would be to find out how much core intrudes into the engine compartment vs the oem one. I think I can tolerate about 0.5" of movement of the shroud towards the motor. I think there is approx 1.5~1.75" down there. Will need to measure it.
yeah I can try.
 

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yeah I can try.
should be easy... form the edge of the upper support bar to the engine side of the radiator core is all I need... for both radiators installed.


edit: also a writeup of your opinions on the build quality & whatnot would be cool...
 

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should be easy... form the edge of the upper support bar to the engine side of the radiator core is all I need... for both radiators installed.


edit: also a writeup of your opinions on the build quality & whatnot would be cool...


So from the radiator core support bar to the front of the engine ? Or from the core support to the end of the radiator core?


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So from the radiator core support bar to the front of the engine ? Or from the core support to the end of the radiator core?


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from the core support edge next to the radiator to the far end of the radiator core... shouldn't be more than 4~6". If I know what that is, I can do the math to figure out if it would fit or not. I was not able to fit the BTR radiator + shroud because of the fat core it had.

Just found a pic of that core & it was 1.75" thick.
 

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from the core support edge next to the radiator to the far end of the radiator core... shouldn't be more than 4~6". If I know what that is, I can do the math to figure out if it would fit or not. I was not able to fit the BTR radiator + shroud because of the fat core it had.



Just found a pic of that core & it was 1.75" thick.


Alrighty then. Shouldn’t be a problem.


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Rad is supposed to be here tomorrow. Hopefully will get it installed over the weekend weather permitting. And of course after ordering a new radiator my radiator has almost quit leaking . It went from getting the front axle wet after driving it . To just being damp around the seam at the bottom. I don’t understand how or why it could do that ... after I tried to re-crimp it, it slowed it down but it still would drip. But it’s still a ticking time bomb. I wouldn’t trust it going on a long trip. My luck the end cap would blow off the rad and drain all my coolant .


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Rad is supposed to be here tomorrow. Hopefully will get it installed over the weekend weather permitting. And of course after ordering a new radiator my radiator has almost quit leaking . It went from getting the front axle wet after driving it . To just being damp around the seam at the bottom. I don’t understand how or why it could do that ... after I tried to re-crimp it, it slowed it down but it still would drip. But it’s still a ticking time bomb. I wouldn’t trust it going on a long trip. My luck the end cap would blow off the rad and drain all my coolant .


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I am tempted to do the AFE but really need to know how much space is available for the e-fans. I may not even need anything that big once the custom controller is in place. Finished the first pass on it today & have it set so it will kick 1 fan on @200ish deg, then bump that up (not sure at what temp yet, need to go back and log the CT sensor again and ramp it up to 212~215 ish to get the voltage readings). 2nd output controls the other fan.

Winter here in the PNW, do not even need them unless going up hill. Have the front stack half blocked with a cover and the CAC blocked on both sides, still temps are easily kept in check.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
from the core support edge next to the radiator to the far end of the radiator core... shouldn't be more than 4~6". If I know what that is, I can do the math to figure out if it would fit or not. I was not able to fit the BTR radiator + shroud because of the fat core it had.



Just found a pic of that core & it was 1.75" thick.




Just so we are on the same page ... that’s the measurements you want correct? If so that’s about 3 and a hail over 1/4 for the oem size rad:


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Just so we are on the same page ... that’s the measurements you want correct? If so that’s about 3 and a hail over 1/4 for the oem size rad:


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yup, thats it! Thanks! (3.5")

Looks like I loose 0.5"... and have maybe 1" gap between the lower fan & the fluidampr

How does the build quility look?
 

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Discussion Starter #36
yup, thats it! Thanks! (3.5")

Looks like I loose 0.5"... and have maybe 1" gap between the lower fan & the fluidampr

How does the build quility look?


Not good. I’m not happy at all. I debating sending this thing back. It’s obviously made in China doesn’t say that but a few of the mount I had to open more or bend . Now it’s setting in the truck and I found out the upper radiator isolators mounts don’t line up at all. I’m going to have to probably shave the mount down to get it to fit . I hate to have to modify something new cause it’s not make right that really ticks me off. Also the box it was is was coming apart when I picked it up it about fell out the bottom. I wasn’t home when it was delivered. If I had saw it I would have rejected it.

Someone obviously saw it and just used tape to try to fix it instead of putting it in a new box .




Notice that almost doesn’t fit . That’s the shroud mount .



That’s the mount for the power steering mount . It’s not straight .



No way it’s going to fit . I’m going fro have to mod it . Anyone know where to buy new upper radiator isolator/ bushings ? Mine are ok but have some dry cracks . Mopar online says it’s been discontinued. Part number they listed was 52029088AA.


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There how well the upper isolator mount fit


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Thanks for the pics and updates.

How they can ship an expensive delicate rad so poorly packed is ridiculous.
You don't mention it but was the rad damaged at all from shipping?

I too hate to start modding a brand new part that should fit correctly out of the the box.
Before you start modding/grinding bending, I would take notes and try to put everything together as much as possible.
Sometimes, you make one mod, then another, then another and then the whole thing is totally mickey mouse.

For those rubber grommets, I just put rubber conditioner (303 or something similar) on them to help save them.
As long as they are not falling apart, they are fine.


Can you confirm that the core thickness is in fact 2.0inches thick? Thanks...
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Thanks for the pics and updates.



How they can ship an expensive delicate rad so poorly packed is ridiculous.

You don't mention it but was the rad damaged at all from shipping?



I too hate to start modding a brand new part that should fit correctly out of the the box.

Before you start modding/grinding bending, I would take notes and try to put everything together as much as possible.

Sometimes, you make one mod, then another, then another and then the whole thing is totally mickey mouse.



For those rubber grommets, I just put rubber conditioner (303 or something similar) on them to help save them.

As long as they are not falling apart, they are fine.





Can you confirm that the core thickness is in fact 2.0inches thick? Thanks...




I noticed that . Not sure if it was done in shipping or not . But the other side wasn’t like that . I just took pilers and gently moved it back. Thats the upper radiator mounts the one that connectes to the core support.



And that the button nipple that sides down in the body mount . I noticed it was very tight pulled it back out and saw that was bend . I don’t know if these parts are bend from shipping or just poor workmanship. The radiator was in cased in a foam shell on the sides . That’s probably why it made it here in one piece .

Also forgot to take a picture of it . But on one of the mounts there was a piece of welding rod sticking out it was sharp. Over all just poor workmanship. I’d would expect this from those 200$ eBay rads not a 500$ afe . But it wouldn’t surprise me to find out these afe rads are being made in the same factory in China as the eBay ones .





It is definitely thicker then factory.

I did manage to get it to connect to the core support. I had to take the bolts out for the support and slide it to the drivers side about 1/8 of a inch . Put the bolts through then push it back. After bending the brackets some and forcing the core support back it’s original spot , it seems to fit . The shroud seems to fit and the trans cooler on the front plus the power steering on the bottom . I’m calling it a night tonight so hopefully tomorrow it will be done if I don’t run into anyone problems .



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