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Discussion Starter #1
I took some pics, can you tell me which line is the pressure line to the engine?
And how do you attach to the aluminum tubing.

And what is this unused bracket with 2 ear holes for?

I was thinking of using this filter head which has a steel thread insert.

Fleetguard Head Fuel Filter Part No: 142784S
Says it has this, is it ORB boss?
Fuel inlet and outlet ports are 7/8-14 UNF-2B
I would prefer a non ORB, cause a 7/8 ORB fitting is $10 each.
Anyone have a better idea for filter heads?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I think the top bigger line is the supply line?
And is it metric or is it 3/8" size?
I called the hydraulic store, it is a 5/8 ORB, a -10 fitting. $3.72 each to go to 1/2" female NPT. (2216-8-10s)
Then you can get a compression fitting, a '68x6x8' for 3/8 tubing, and 1/2" npt male pipe for $3.50

So you could simply use all metal connections. I dont know what is usually done.
 

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I can't tell you off hand which is which, but a simple trace of the line up to your stock fuel filter will tell which is supply. There should be one line to the filter, then one line coming off the rail I believe and that should be return. There are some better options location wise out there for adding a 2 micron filter into the system. Adding it after the stock fuel filter is best IMHO, plus you wouldn't have to cut into a perfectly good steel line.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I can't tell you off hand which is which, but a simple trace of the line up to your stock fuel filter will tell which is supply. There should be one line to the filter, then one line coming off the rail I believe and that should be return. There are some better options location wise out there for adding a 2 micron filter into the system. Adding it after the stock fuel filter is best IMHO, plus you wouldn't have to cut into a perfectly good steel line.
I checked the line with a magnet, does not stick. so either its aluminum or a real good grade of SS (doubt it)
Someone is selling a kit. But I can do it a lot cheaper. They tied into the 3/8 line and the 5/16 is the drain to tank.

And the pf7977 filter is absolute 5 microns which fit in the stock housing, better than stock which is 7 micron and also filters the water out.
'03-'12 Cummins Fuel Filter Kit
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have changed my initial idea. I am going to use a 21 micron 33118 Wix for a detroit diesel 60 series as primary, then put the 2 micron Cat next inline. I have head the DD filter head salvaged from an old Chesapeake deadrise workboat a long time and makes sense to use it now. Primary and secondary makes sense and wont cost me much more. Having just the 2 micron might make it clog up faster. How do you know when these filters clog?

I may need to relocate the plastic tube holder bracket on the frame. Likely going to use the A1 marine nylon lined rubber fuel line in front of and after just for making it more flexible. Plan to use compression fittings on the fuel tubing, 3/8" OD x 3/8" Fips and then put a 3/8 hose barb on that for the hose.

OR, I do have a 90 degree 3/8 compression by 3/8 npt I could use on the inlet to the primary, which would save me a little money. Not having a rubber hose though makes it tougher to line up right. The inlet in the photo is the 90 degree street elbow.
 

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It would be easier to add the cat filter between the fuel filter that is already on the truck and the CP3 pump. Just a suggestion.
 

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Here's what I did. A couple of Baldwin bases, $21 from Amazon. Hose and fittings from Summit racing. After this Michigan winter though, I'm going to add a 100W heating wrap to the water sep. and fashion a couple of koozies for the filters.

 

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The bigger line is the correct one and it's stainless. Nice clean filter set up Mbuechle.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Here's what I did. A couple of Baldwin bases, $21 from Amazon. Hose and fittings from Summit racing. After this Michigan winter though, I'm going to add a 100W heating wrap to the water sep. and fashion a couple of koozies for the filters.

Interesting, looks like you simply cut the metal fuel line and shoved the rubber hose on it?
I may try to bubble flare the cut ends. Rent the tool at Autozone.
I actually don't have too much issue with no flare as the pressure is low enough, but if I did that, I would double up the clamps. My cost though is 2 compression fittings, I already have 3/8 hose barbs. I even thought about using 3/8" 1/4 turn handle toilet ball valves from H Depot. Meaning you could turn the valve off and on. Would that be useful when changing filters?

I could see how the frame bracket (first pic) could be used as you did with it supported on the one end then the support struts.

I was thinking for the Detroit 60 series filter head of drilling the frame rail and tapping in two 3/8 bolts, then the other is so far held on by the 3/8 pipe but I may be able to fashion an angle bracket. So mine would be inline along the frame rail side.

As far as mounting these filters in the engine bay, there just is no easy room or way to do it and it clutters up the space.
 

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It would be easier to add the cat filter between the fuel filter that is already on the truck and the CP3 pump. Just a suggestion.
That ^^
Filter smaller down the line, otherwise you will be using 2mic filters very quickly where maybe a 14 and a WS would work. You have 5 in the stock can (and yes, it is known around here that the Baldwin pf7977 is the wise choise), the 2-3 goes after. I'm running a Donaldson 551313 there.

There's a gigantic thread around here that has ridiculous amts of info.... here it is: https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-powertrain/74928-installing-additional-fuel-filters-gdp-w-cat-2-micron-fuel-water-sep.html
 

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OP, per the Cat fuel filter install kit instructions, the upper line is the supply. FYI: the Cat kit uses compression couplings attached to fuel hoses. This allows a little flexibility if the installer doesn't quite cut the OE line in the right spots. And it makes for an easier line install.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Learning about these filters, there are so many to choose from.
The 1-12 Detroit Diesel filter head has many filters available, also some are water seperators, and I like the steel insert center threads on the head, so no galling of threads possible. It is also zinc diecast, its heavy, so not aluminum head.

Apparently that Cat 1R0750 is aluminum and the 1-14 filter head I bought is aluminum which is sort of a bad idea, but I found a P553203 WS or Wix 33005 WS 3 micron made of steel which sounds better to me. So that Cat 1R0750 may be the last one I buy. I could have WS filters on both primary and secondary with decent micron ratings. I suppose some grease on the threads and do not tighten tight.
WS stands for water seperator, at least they have a drain.
Some I have found of interest are for a 1-12 head, for my reference so I dont lose the numbers.
Baldwin BF5800 25 micron
Baldwin BF5813 WS

Luber Finer LF P815FN
Luber Finer LF8010 WS

Donaldson P558010 20 micron
Donaldson P553203 WS

Fleetguard FS19513 WS
Detroit Diesel 23530706
Detroit Diesel 23512317 WS
Detroit Diesel 25010793

wix WF10045 WS
wix 33123 12 micron
wix 33118 21 micron
wix 33418 WS 12 micron
wix 33646 WS 20 micron
wix 33764 WS ? metal screen filter
wix WF10014 WS 4 micron

And some bazzilion more
Cross Reference: 390 23535985, 550 23512317, 550 25010780, 550 25011910, 550 25011911, 550 25012919, 550 25012920, 550 25165075, 680 KW1213, 875 8064271, ABP ABPN10GFS19513, BGA 95418, CAP 86418, CHP LFF902, FRL 42002115, GEM G1213, GRD G033418, HAS 101868, HAS 868, HAS FF1073, HAS FF868, KRA F183AR, LBF LFF8010, LBF LFF902, LBF LFP8010, NAP 3418, OKL 8024608, PRL F60025, PRL GP25, PRV 531390, PRV 531407, Q88 BF1213, Q88 BF5813, T52 12921, T52 T921, T52 TP1009, T52 TP1057, T52 TP1262, TMK 4521002, TRX 15504035, U30 PCS1144, U30 PCS5060G, U30 PS6830, U37 33418, U37 WF10045, V74 BF1213, V74 BF5813, VAG 133133511D, VOO VF2845, W26 FFP558010
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I got the Amazon filters and that Fleetguard filter base. The filters are real nice. The filter base is JUNK for using with the 1R0750 filter. As I thought, aluminum on aluminum threads will bind and gall. I started to thread by hand and felt it crunch and begin to stick. To fix I dunked whole assembly in oil and slowly worked it back and forth. Very glad did not buy any ones kit that uses an all aluminum filter base, I dont care if it just works for many, for some they have had the filters weld to the bases. No way am I going to put anti seize on the Cat 2 micron filter. I returned that head as unsuitable with the Cat filter and ordered a Wix 24770, which may have its own quality issues. And saves the trouble of buying the ORB fittings. The Detroit Diesel filter heads are excellent quality and you can get them in 1-12 primary or 13/1612 or 3/4 secondary and they have 3/8 NPT threads. I being cheap will see if the Wix 24770 is ok.

The 13/16-12 secondary can take a Wix 33815 which is 2 microns. Posting for my own benefit the info. I am already committed to the 1-14 secondary size or I might have switched to using a Detroit secondary base.
 

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It would be easier to add the cat filter between the fuel filter that is already on the truck and the CP3 pump. Just a suggestion.
That ^^
Filter smaller down the line, otherwise you will be using 2mic filters very quickly where maybe a 14 and a WS would work. You have 5 in the stock can (and yes, it is known around here that the Baldwin pf7977 is the wise choise), the 2-3 goes after. I'm running a Donaldson 551313 there.

There's a gigantic thread around here that has ridiculous amts of info.... here it is: https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-powertrain/74928-installing-additional-fuel-filters-gdp-w-cat-2-micron-fuel-water-sep.html
Yup, I firmly believe it's a way better setup to have it all under the hood. No need for heating element around the water separator then, and it won't be exposed to any nasty road conditions. Oh well. Hopefully it's trouble free for him!
 

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^ You can doo whatever you want, but the post above is correct and the most efficient and least costly way. Presume you're ditching the OE filter then if you're installing 2 separate filters upstream from it?

Don't believe everything you see on the interwebs. Plenty of guys with stock trucks and dual filters/external pump all feeding into the stock filter. While this technically doesn't hurt anything, it shows their lack of knowledge, financial sense or maybe they just wanted 2 Airdog stickers for the back glass!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
^ You can doo whatever you want, but the post above is correct and the most efficient and least costly way. Presume you're ditching the OE filter then if you're installing 2 separate filters upstream from it?

Don't believe everything you see on the interwebs. Plenty of guys with stock trucks and dual filters/external pump all feeding into the stock filter. While this technically doesn't hurt anything, it shows their lack of knowledge, financial sense or maybe they just wanted 2 Airdog stickers for the back glass!
I am leaning towards putting the Cat 2 micron after the OEM 7 micron filter. It solves an issue where I want to have a PSI gauge heading to the C3P pump.
I found a good spot on the frame for the 20 micron Detroit filter base close to the tank. I plan to cut the line, and bubble flare a little and run the hoses to it and then back to the line.

Up at the engine, there is enough room to mount the Wix base onto the engine air horn. Plane to take off the horn and drill and tap three 3/8 bolt holes for the support bolts right through it, if the casting is not too thin.
May seem unusual idea but don't see why it wont work fine. Just use the existing rubber fuel line connection points, no need for special banjo fittings.

The wix base has four 1/2 " ports. So one will be plugged, one for the gauge, and 2 for the fuel lines.

As far as cold weather clogging the filter, so idea being dont mount it on the frame rail, well, if the engine is OFF, and it is COLD, it can plug even being right next to the motor as the motor will cool off and get as cold as anywhere else around the truck. No difference then where it is mounted, but maybe a marginal improvement.

Some people have come up with ingenious bracket designs for mounting the Cat 2 under the hood.
 

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I got the Amazon filters and that Fleetguard filter base. The filters are real nice. The filter base is JUNK for using with the 1R0750 filter. As I thought, aluminum on aluminum threads will bind and gall. I started to thread by hand and felt it crunch and begin to stick. To fix I dunked whole assembly in oil and slowly worked it back and forth. Very glad did not buy any ones kit that uses an all aluminum filter base, I dont care if it just works for many, for some they have had the filters weld to the bases. No way am I going to put anti seize on the Cat 2 micron filter. I returned that head as unsuitable with the Cat filter and ordered a Wix 24770, which may have its own quality issues. And saves the trouble of buying the ORB fittings. The Detroit Diesel filter heads are excellent quality and you can get them in 1-12 primary or 13/1612 or 3/4 secondary and they have 3/8 NPT threads. I being cheap will see if the Wix 24770 is ok.

The 13/16-12 secondary can take a Wix 33815 which is 2 microns. Posting for my own benefit the info. I am already committed to the 1-14 secondary size or I might have switched to using a Detroit secondary base.


This had me thinking about my setup. I’m mid-project and my dual filter rig has been mocked up on the bench for the past few months. Went out and sure enough the cat filter was not coming off. Had to lock it in the vice to get it apart. The Baldwin filter (steel) came off easily. These were both hand tight just for mock up purposes.

Everything is brand new :(








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Why on earth would you put 3 filters on it? I'd only run 1 if it also was a water separator. This is a case of finding a solution for a problem that doesn't exist. Filtering 12m, 5-7m and then 2m is just alot of added resistance to flow.
 

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Discussion Starter #20


Yuck.


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Sorry to see that, yes its bad, using those all aluminum heads. I read even with them being wet with diesel they can grab and weld together ruining the filter and head.

I got my Detroit Diesel primary head on the truck today.
If you had one in your hand and examined it, you would see how good quality they are. There are some made by Detroit, AC Delco, Purolator I saw on Ebay for under $50. Sonme have a wider flange so can adapt to more filer O ring sizes. The genuine detroit can't go under 3.4" outer diameter of the O ring seal (pushing it to the limit there) . All the 3.444" O-ring diameter filters fit ok, the WIX site online lets you see it all for all filter numbers.
http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/Exactmatch.aspx?PartNo=33118

I lowered the plastic tubing bracket, it pops out, held in by 2 small frame holes. Redrilled a lower hole and fit together again. I had bent the tubing downward to clear the Detroit Diesel head, and it is STIFF.
I actually could have raised the head a little higher, but was worried about how the frame rolls at the top as it needs to sit flat on the frame. I drilled straight thru the frame and used 2 long bolts to hold it tight. Would not want something to whack off the WS on the end. Or I could go with a shorter filter.

I am wondering as stiff as that SS tubing is, if I can actually put a bead on the end.

The Wix 33118 is 8 inches long. The IN is on the street elbow. I plan to cut the tubing and loop the rubber hose back to the IN. And a second rubber hose will go from the OUT to the other cut end of the truck fuel line.
 

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