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I have a 2005 model,

wife says the air out of the passenger side vents is not as cold as the air out of the driver side.

i have tried moving air vents top, bottom, or both,

but today, it was 101 degrees outside, ac was fine on driver side, but i put my hand over the passenger side vent and it did not appear to blow as hard or as cold as the vents on my side.

any suggestion on this type problem:

ac unit seems to work good, air is very cold coming out of the driver vents.

mama is not to happy!!!!!!!
 

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search for shutoff valve. There are several active threads right now that talk about putting a shutoff in the hose that feeds the heater core. Also adding a pusher fan. If megacab there are screens that can be removed to help out with the volume of air.
 

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Usually the culprit is low freon, from what I have read on here many times.

But, if like me, you have already attempted this, then:

I have had this issue for 3+ years and 70,000 miles. I have evacuated and recharged my freon system multiple times to the manufacturer recommended charge level. I have insulated my cold vapor line to the evaporator. I STILL have a 8-13* temp difference for the first 15 minutes of a hot day drive. I have good system pressures (ergo, my engine fan is functioning properly keeping the high side manageable, and have a good compressor).

If you've gone this far or further and still have the issue, some people claim to put an electric fan in front of their condenser; i refuse to do this yet, as my high side pressures are okay. Some people put a shutoff valve in the coolant hose to the heater core; this probably wont affect a side to side temp difference, but just possibly lower the overall temp.

Google something about 'passenger a/c warmer than drivers side cummmins' and find a billion page long post on turbodieselregistry.com about a few guys that dealt with the dealer for this exact issue under warranty, and eventually found a few things to help alleviate the temp difference on Dodge's OEM excuse for an a/c system.
 

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i would check the freon, put a heater core shut-off on it. $20 spent and you'll see a good improvement.

Also tint your windows, you can tint a 6" strip on the windshield to any level, tint your sides to 20%, legal is only 30%(in tx) but myself and a lot of my firnds have 18 or 20 on the fronts with no issues, it makes a considerable difference in temps
 

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Google something about 'passenger a/c warmer than drivers side cummmins' and find a billion page long post on turbodieselregistry.com about a few guys that dealt with the dealer for this exact issue under warranty, and eventually found a few things to help alleviate the temp difference on Dodge's OEM excuse for an a/c system.
yep, and they came up with the newer orifice tube (dont remember the specifics) AND charging the system with 2 lbs (32oz) of freon instead of the factory sticker recommended 1.87 lbs (or 30oz.). *and i think that thread was like 87 (or so) pages long!!!! There is an ac thread on this forum that links the TDR thread specifically and says what page to skip to. :thumbsup:
 

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Have you done this or know anyone that has?
 

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Just throwing this out here... I have seen an awful lot of temp doors brake on chrysler products. The Cherokees and other jeeps seem to be the worst though. On the Cherokees, even if you didn't have dual zone climate control there where still a separate door for each side that where connected together mechanically. The part of the door that comes through the case and connect to the actuator would break and cause the door to stick either in the heat position or sometimes some where in the middle. It been a while since I have had the dash module out of a later model truck, so I can't remember how they are set up. But I would atleast look into the possibility. And low freon can cause a temp difference as well. But don't go and try to just add freon from a can because if you overcharge it, it will get worse. Most shops will recover and charge one for a reasonable price. Especially if you don't need freon. Fyi, the only way to tell how much is in it is to weigh what comes out after its recovered. All modern a/c machines do this automatically.

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Resurrecting this one for the summer. bigtexss, i hope you can chime back in.

I'm going to probably need to recharge my system or possibly even replace a mode door this summer (it makes quite a racket going switching from floor to main vents), and want to go back with the different size orifice and possibly higher freon charge amount. Its been over 4 summers with the same old 10-15*F temp difference with multiple evac and recharges to OEM spec.

Here's the thread that discusses the issue, and what I believe is the most productive resolution to date for the side to side vent temp difference with a properly charged and functioning system.

03 ac not working on pass side! - Page 22 - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums

Anyone gone this route?
 

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The root cause of the problem is on first startups in very hot summer temps. The high side will spike to 450psi causing a leak pushing the refrig out anywhere it is weak. Most of the time it is on the high side line. I have also helped people that have had the high pressure pop off valve on the back of the compressor open up. The condensor fan helps with this issue. So if you do the new orifice line, charge to 2.00lbs, and add the condensor fan, you should be good to go for a couple of years.
 
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Good luck with it. You should enjoy it in the summer.
 
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