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abs code 22? new wheel speed sensors not working...
Hello All!
I'm new to the community but have been enjoying the extensive knowledge base you all provide. Thank you!
:thumbsup:
I have had my abs and brake lights coming on and off for a while, now they are on all the time. I had a shop check the abs and they said the right front wheel speed sensor was bad. When i replaced the sensor there was a thin metal shim/gasket that went between the sensor and the hub, but dodge did not give me a new one or even see one in their schematics. So i put the new one in w/o the shim. Still have it locking up on me and the lights are still on. My buddy borrowed his snap-on scanner from work and we watched the speeds. They stayed the same while coasting and accelerating but when braking, The new sensor would drop out at 10 mph while the old ones (drivers side and rear) would go down to 6 mph. So we took it apart and added the shim back in, now its worse drops out at 14 while the other goes to 6. the scanner showed code 22, which i think means bad reading from sensor.
We compared the new senor (oem) and the old...the old one has a longer shaft that goes into the hub/bearing. So I'm wondering if my old one is a aftermarket hub and i need to replace the whole hub/bearing assembly for it to read correctly or if its just because each wheel has different air gap? I'm thinking if i switch the drivers side then i will have two wheels locking up because the gap is too big... so therefore needing to swap the whole thing...am i on the right track?
Hello All!
I'm new to the community but have been enjoying the extensive knowledge base you all provide. Thank you!

I have had my abs and brake lights coming on and off for a while, now they are on all the time. I had a shop check the abs and they said the right front wheel speed sensor was bad. When i replaced the sensor there was a thin metal shim/gasket that went between the sensor and the hub, but dodge did not give me a new one or even see one in their schematics. So i put the new one in w/o the shim. Still have it locking up on me and the lights are still on. My buddy borrowed his snap-on scanner from work and we watched the speeds. They stayed the same while coasting and accelerating but when braking, The new sensor would drop out at 10 mph while the old ones (drivers side and rear) would go down to 6 mph. So we took it apart and added the shim back in, now its worse drops out at 14 while the other goes to 6. the scanner showed code 22, which i think means bad reading from sensor.
We compared the new senor (oem) and the old...the old one has a longer shaft that goes into the hub/bearing. So I'm wondering if my old one is a aftermarket hub and i need to replace the whole hub/bearing assembly for it to read correctly or if its just because each wheel has different air gap? I'm thinking if i switch the drivers side then i will have two wheels locking up because the gap is too big... so therefore needing to swap the whole thing...am i on the right track?
