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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A couple of weeks ago, I blew a rear brake line (worth the $10 from Chrysler since I could never put that many bends in a 8 inch pipe). Obviously the brake and ABS lights went on when the pedal went to the floor. Fixed everything and now I can't get the brake and ABS lights to go out. I thought maybe there was a computer code that was doing it so I disconnected the battery to try to clear it. That didn't do it. Anyone got any ideas of what the issue might be? Thanks in advance.
 

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You can also clear the codes by removing the cables from the truck for about 10 minutes.

While the cables are unhooked, put the key in the ignition and turn the key over and hold it all the way forward, like the motor is just cranking. Hold it forward for 10 seconds.

DO this again and then reconnect the cables. Should clear everything out.
 

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Mr. Vehicle Destroyer
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yeah they are right, what happens is there is a pressure switch that detects pressure imbalance between the front and rear circuits. When a line blows to the rear wheels the switch shuttles and turns the light on. I have seen however where these switches are a piece of crap and once they shuttle they will not return. I think there may have been a recall on some real early ones for that problem. If you try the above and your lights don't go off they it is a good possibility that your switch has stuck and you will need to replace it. You will have to buy a whole new valve to get it or hit up the local junk yard. Do you have two or four wheel ABS?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I disconnected that cables for about an hour although I didn't turn the ignition switch on. Where is that pressure switch located? On the master cylinder? And it's a 4WD truck with 2WD ABS. Thanks.
 

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Mr. Vehicle Destroyer
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On the ABS module itself, there are two coils that looke like little metal towers stamped out of steel mounted to the aluminum block. The switch is between the two little towers with like a 1/2 inch or so hex on it. You have to take the coils off to get to the switch which means you have to bend the couple little coil casing locks (which are two indents at the base of each coil) out to allow them to slide up if memory serves me correct. The terminal on top of the switch almost looks like a small spear when you get the coils out of the way I think. I don't remember if the dodge market ones had a manual reset on that or not, but some of our export ones did. Reset was completed by pressing down on the top of the switch terminal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Shibbyutman. I took it apart (and it was exactly as you said :)), but I can't get the "spear" to go down at all. I'm assuming I need to replace the block? And does that mean I need to bleed the whole system or is there a way to bleed just that block?
 

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Mr. Vehicle Destroyer
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You will need to bleed the whole system any time the abs is opened up. I think the way to test the switch to see if it is tripped is to check connectivity between the spear and the aluminum housing. When it is tripped i believe it goes to ground and therefore it would have connectivity to the valve body. If you can just get the switch that will be the easiest swap, but if you can't you will have to replace the whole valve.
 

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Mopar1973Man.Com
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Sometimes it requires a heavy brake application to reset the lights...:w:
 

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Mr. Vehicle Destroyer
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ha ha ha, on a gravel covered road none the less. It is a good idea to get a few activations out of the abs valve and bleed again to make sure all the air is out of it.
 
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