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Discussion Starter #1
took my getrag out to put new bearings in as i pressed off a bearing the 3-4 syncro kinda just fell off! i lost the lil bb's that go with the lil springs and replaced them with ever so slightly smaller ones not much of a difference put it all back together and checked it be for i put it back in all the gears work except 3rd and 4th cant get it to go in those gears 1,2,5,and reverse is fine...need help
 

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Well, Gary, you probably already know the answer... which is taking all that machinery back out and re-doing it again. This time with the correct parts. $ucks, don't it. Don't feel alone because we've all done it at some time or another.

Speaking of Getrag, a German transmission... I spent 2 years in Germany in the Air Force and learned a little German. If you add a "ge" on the front of a word, it makes it 'past tense'. English of course adds "ed" on the end.

I looked up "trag" in an online German-English dictionary and it roughly means "carry". Adding "ge" to the front should make it "carried" but the real German word is Getragen.

If there are any German-as-a-first-language people out there, maybe you could interject some more insight.

Sorry, Gary. This doesn't help the fact that you still have to yank all that machinery back out again.

I'm gonna change my transmission in 2 weeks. I hope I'm not posting the same sad song when my time comes.
 

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I'm gonna change my transmission in 2 weeks. I hope I'm not posting the same sad song when my time comes.
I'm swapping my Getrag and ran into a small snag. I'm sure you guys can help me out.

I'm pulling the transmission out but the gear shift nub stops me from pulling the tranny back far enough to remove it. The engine doesn't tilt back far enough to allow the gear shift nub to get below the truck body.

What is the trick? If I don't hear anything I'll have to cut a slot in the body for clearance of the gearshift nub.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
are you talking about the top cover of the tranny? or the shiffter??? i just took my tranny out and had no problem with clearence up top you have the crossmember off???
 

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are you talking about the top cover of the tranny? or the shiffter??? i just took my tranny out and had no problem with clearence up top you have the crossmember off???
I'm quite surprised it wouldn't come out. Yes, I'm talking about the shifter that normall sticks through the hole in the body. I took off (unscrewed, not unbolted) the shifter but the transmission never dropped far enough to allow the shifter to drop below the body.

Yes, I took the crossmembers off. One from below the transfer case and one from below the transmission.

Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
yea you need to take off that rubber boot and get some snap ring pliers and take the snap ring off and the shiffter will come right out just put it in neutral makes it easy to put it back in
 

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get some snap ring pliers and take the snap ring off and the shiffter will come right out just put it in neutral makes it easy to put it back in
That sounds like the piece of information I needed.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH. I'll do that in the morning.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
you know of any places where we can get parts for these trannys or know of any for sell??????
 

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Discussion Starter #10
im looking for the lil ball bearings that go to part of the syncro i lost them and had to replace them with smaller ones but it doesnt down shift from 4th to 3rd unless you put it in slow and easy its making me very angry
 

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I have two questions before I put my transmission and transfer case back in: 1) Where is the 3/8" wavy washer suppsed to go? 2) Is the junction between the transmisson and the transfer case supposed to be dry or wet?

1) I'm pretty darned good about knowing where parts go back, but this wavy washer showed up without me noticing where it came from.

2) When I separated the tranny & TCase, a couple quarts of oil came out.

Gary, thanks for help on getting my tranny out. It worked perfectly.

I changed the clutch today and got the bell housing back on. Before that I cleaned the underside of the body and got myself completely filthy. When the truck underside was clean and dry I applied a coat of truck bed liner to hopefully diminish some of the road and engine noise.
 

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on my 91 I solved my getrag problems by upgrading to a NV4500 out of a 97.
I used the backing plate, starter and fly wheel from the 97,
i machined the spined collar down to fit inside the seal of the nv4500.
everything bolted up. I also had to build a T case shifter mount.
i picked up all the parts for $2000
sold my used (wore out) tranny for 500
it has not missed a beat in 5 years.
 

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yea you need to take off that rubber boot and get some snap ring pliers and take the snap ring off and the shiffter will come right out just put it in neutral makes it easy to put it back in
Aloha Gary and others,

Okay, I got the truck back together and now I have to get that shifter back in. What a PITA that is.

What is the trick to reinstalling the shifter ball/ring/snapring?
 

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Where is the 3/8" wavy washer suppsed to go?
I found the place for the wavy washer. It goes on the TCase shift linkage at the TCase end.

(Wavy washer, flat shim washer, cotter pin.)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
have a buddy or girlfriend in my case push and hold it down wile you snap the ring back in:lol3: i just dont see any other easy way around it!
 

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have a buddy or girlfriend in my case push and hold it down wile you snap the ring back in:lol3: i just dont see any other easy way around it!
Well, I had two hours this morning to get the truck running before going to work. I devised a method of pressing the shifter into the transmission so I could install the snap-ring. I had to drill 2 holes in the floor board to hold the universal puller.


This was all done with a universal puller, 2 lengths of all-thread w/nuts, and an oxygen sensor socket.


The oxygen sensor socket fit overtop the shifter like it was made for the job.


I can't believe I'm the first one to try this.
 

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I leave the shaft attached to the stub, then press the shifter knob into my shoulder, leaving both hands free to mess with the snapring.

To each his own on the Getrag upgrade. I can rebuild my Getrag 4 or 5 times for $2000, which I doubt I'll need. I have about 50K combined mileage on the ones I have set up, and no problems that I am aware of in any of them. Preload and lubrication are the keys.

Gary j westrope- PM me about the little ball bearing thingies. You can go a hair bigger, but I wouldnt go ANY smaller than OEM. You still have your springs, right? Duct tape will keep things together til you get your shafts mated up.

Daniel
 

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You rebuilt your Getrag 4 or 5 times for $2000? Does that mean you spent around $400 each time? I'll have to keep that in mind for next time, now that I have a spare.

I tried doing the shifter in the shoulder trick but I didn't have enough upper body weight to drive it home. I had to lean all my weight onto the ball and then I was too unstable to manipulate the ring and snap-ring.
 
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