I was driving on the freeway yesterday and without obvious reason the a/c stopped blowing cold. I have had the r/door repalced (twice) and i think it may need it again (it was making a flapping noise from under the dash when the fan was on full) but I think this is an unrelated problem. I don't have the cash to take it to the dealer right now and was hoping someone here could give me some help. I don't think it is a freon problem but i could be wrong.
(1) Set the A/C Heater mode control switch knob in
the Recirculation Mode position, the temperature
control knob in the full cool position, and the blower
motor switch knob in the highest speed position.
(2) Start the engine and hold the idle at 1,000 rpm
with the compressor clutch engaged.<- (AC on)
(3) The engine should be at operating temperature.
The doors and windows must be closed.
(4) Insert a thermometer in the driver side center
A/C (panel) outlet. Operate the engine for five minutes.
(5) The compressor clutch may cycle, depending
upon the ambient temperature and humidity.
if it clicks on and stays on and you still have warm air:
you either have a leak/ low refridgerant.
if it doesnt click on at all
1. AC Fuse (underhood fuse panel)
2. AC compressor clutch
3. No refridgerant at all
4. Faulty a/c compressor clutch relay. (underhood fuse panel)
5. Improperly installed or faulty Fin Sensor. (mounted on evap, Stops the evap from freezing soild)
6. Faulty a/c high pressure transducer. (between the compressor and condensor, high pressure cutout)
7. Faulty PCM
the other thing to check is if its your recirc door is run your a/c in panel vent. it doesnt get as cold but it'll carry you for now.
and beyond that. unless you can get a set of a/c gauges and know how to use em. thats as much as i can explain.
hope it helps
I checked the under hood panel and everything checked out. I checked the freon and it was full. I had a guy look at it and he said it seemed to be some sort of electrical problem. He needed more time with it. Is this helping?
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