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Discussion Starter #1
My A/C is draining most of its condensation into the cab and the passenger floor. The carpet is soaking wet. What do I need to look for/fix as I investigate this problem? Is there a drain to the outside that can plug off?
 

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are you sure its ac and not coolant? if ac there is a drain around the turbo area that might be plugged. if not ac the heater core needs replaced
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've had the heater core go out and leak on the floor. This is water. At times, I have to idle 12 hrs at a time to run the A/C while I'm at work.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I read the tech article, but it just shows most of the same steps I went through to change out the heater core without saying what was the cause of the water pouring in the cab. Guess i'll just tear it all apart as soon as I get my other maintenance projects done on my 04.
 

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While i am not familiar with the airbox on your truck, i have worked on a lot,of AC systems. With a drain problem i look for a bad outlet tube, and not finding one I go underneath with a flashlight, safety glasses, and a rifle brush brazed to a coathanger wire and clean it out. Once that is done, i use air and a brake line to blow a bottle of Listerine in there to kill the fungus garden. Smells much better with the new mint flavor. Any alcohol will work, but if you use Tequila, expect to do the breathalyzer test.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks dauntless, I knew there should be a drain I could check before tearing it all apart.
 

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There is a drain that's more than likely plugged. I don't know on the ram but on the chevys they are on the passenger side firewall, I'd check around the turbo.
 

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My bad didn't see this has already been answered. Isn't it really hard on these trucks to idle like that?
 

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Oh I was not aware of that, Thank you. I thought cylinder washing would happen at any temp. I would assume he has his idle bumped up a little either way considering how much it can help with ac. Is cylinder washing not an issue as long as the engine and coolant are at operating temps because it will burn all the fuel at idle? Or is cylinder washing not even the issue and I'm just completely misinformed?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have trouble with my 97 idling. The governor springs get softer as the engine gets to a good thorough hot operating temp and the idle speed falls to almost 500 from 800 when I run errands around town. Its not as fun as my 04 where I can use the cruise to high idle it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The other day I had a 24 hr shift, and opened the toolbox lid to block the sun from the back window. When I shut the lid to go home, there were two damp spots on the lid from unburnt fuel that came out of the stacks. I tried to keep it high idled with my foot, but took a couple naps. I need a better way to high idle my 12v.
 

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I have trouble with my 97 idling. The governor springs get softer as the engine gets to a good thorough hot operating temp and the idle speed falls to almost 500 from 800 when I run errands around town. Its not as fun as my 04 where I can use the cruise to high idle it.
That is the exact opposite of normal. Once the cylinder temps get up to operating temp the fuel burns more completely and the idle speed goes up. While you are stationary you could use an old fashioned stick to hold the idle higher, and if you want to spend the money I believe Genos sells a metal tool for the job. If you are correct about the gov springs why not adjust them or replace them?
 

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Oh I was not aware of that, Thank you. I thought cylinder washing would happen at any temp. I would assume he has his idle bumped up a little either way considering how much it can help with ac. Is cylinder washing not an issue as long as the engine and coolant are at operating temps because it will burn all the fuel at idle? Or is cylinder washing not even the issue and I'm just completely misinformed?
I think the issue of cylinder washing is blown out of proportion for the most part. As long as the engine's up to operating temp, it won't happen. The only exceptions are when it's super cold outside (think -10 to -20 or worse) and you have to leave it idling. The common recommendation is to bump the idle up to 1000 just to be on the safe side. Wash can happen when the engine's cold, and the worst thing you can do to one of these Cummins is let it idle up to operating temp. The faster the warmup, the better.

@ mopar:

You've got a problem somewhere, my cold to hot idle speed changes by about the width of the tach needle. Raw fuel on the toolbox is also very abnormal.
 

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Thanks. That is unfortunately exactly what I used to do when I first got my truck and it was coldish out, I'd go start it and let it idle up to temp. I definitely will not be doing that any more.
 

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Fire it up, wait for oil pressure, start driving. Stay below 2000 rpm until the needle moves across the 140 line and wait 'til operating temperature to put the boots to it.

The reason cold idle is bad is because the cooler the cylinder walls, the faster they wear. I don't understand the physics behind it, but I read a fairly convincing study a few years back on the issue. Here's the cliff notes:

 

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Discussion Starter #19
My idle speed is an odd duck for sure. When its cold outside, I have to push the pedal a little to help it stabilize an idle and the speed will go up slightly as it warms up, but sometimes after say an hour highway trip, it will die at the end of an off ramp when I clutch to stop. I float the gears, it only dies at stop signs/lights. And not all the time, but its usually the engagement of the ac clutch away from dying, and only when its thoroughly warm. Otherwise it idles fine.
 

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Mine does this as well only worse.

@Dauntless, I appreciate that. Funny thing is that is exactly what I have been telling people for the last few years. I tell them to start there car, let it run for about 30 seconds then drive easy for the next few miles. Best way to warm up a car.

As for the reason I wasn't following this advice was because my truck idles at 1,100 rpm anyways or it doesn't idle at all and I only drive 3 miles to get to work and knew short trips where bad for diesels because they never get up to operating temps so I let it idle until it was up to temp in hopes I would get full atomization for the drive. After doing more research and getting a better understanding of what's going on inside the cylinders I decided To just start the truck, wait a few seconds and drive easy to work. Then make sure I take it for a decent drive at least once or twice a week. I do understand these are not optimal circumstances to own a diesel and my primary daily driver but I really do love these trucks. Now if I could only get my idle correct.

@Mopar or no car, I am starting to think my idle issue has something to do with the governer assembly. Unfortunately the previous owner had modified everything. I've tried all of the usual starting points to fix the idle, check for fuel leaks, OFV, lift pump, fuel filter, and all that good stuff. Even replaced the 3k gsk that was in there for a 4k in hopes that would fix the idle. Installing the 4k just made it worse. If I run the stud protrusion all the way down to .007 I can get it to idle down to 800rpm without dying however I still have to blip the throttle to get it to start. With the protrusion set to .038 it wint idle without dying at anything under 1200rpm. I made sure all the shims except for the idle shims where out and they where and then even tried removiing the idle shims wich helped a little however it just felt like I had backed the gsk off. Hopefully some day I can figure this out. It wont idle at all with the ac on, or the fan clutch engaged. I have to hold the throttle steady for a few minutes to get it to hold idle then after a few minutes it will idle around 1,100 rpm unless as stated the ac is on or the fan clutch engages. Then after driving for a while it wont hold idle at all. Its become so extremely annoying. I've come close to selling the thing a few times now. I'm wondering if my injectors are just really dirty or some one rebuilt them at some point to the wrong pop pressure. Do you still have the stock injectors?
 
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