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Discussion Starter #1
I've decided to replace the entire A/C system on my 1990 W250. It was old and tired last season, and this year it finally gave up the ghost. It's an easy enough job, but I do have one question....
Does anyone know how to pull the A/C compressor off one of these things?!?!
At the rear side of the compressor, I"ve removed the support bracket for the compressor, and removed the bracket itself from the compressor.
I have unbolted the compressor from the front cooling system support bracket, and removed the drive belt.
The compressor is now dangling free with hoses attached. I can twist it, I can rotate it a bit, and I can almost slip it out the bottom... almost... The clutch won't slip past//between the front support bracket and the frame.
Is there some trick I'm missing here? The information in the service manual is a joke in this case.
Thanks for any help, much appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
OK... I pulled it this morning.
I remove the hoses from the top of compressor, grabbed the clutch from above, and flipped it up, at which point it dropped right out through the bottom on it's own.

I saw a lot of posts where guys had removed all of the engine coolant hoses, and the oil filter, then pulled out from above. I was desperately trying to avoid all that, so thankfully I was successful there. I knew there was enough room to drop it out the bottom, it was just a question of angles. Had to have it free to get to those refrigerant hose connections on the top, so that was a cakewalk this morning, since I already had the compressor free to roll around.

Took Momma for a 600 mile ride in the truck last weekend, with 3 little kittens in tow. I had to hear about it the entire way..."!!!!Why Haven't You Fixed The A/C Yet!!!!"
It worked a little last year, but the compressor was showing signs of failure, so I knew there wasn't much hope for this year. That said, I'm replacing the entire system soup to nuts, with the exception of the evaporator. I didn't want to pull the heater box unless it was absolutely necessary, so I drill a 4" inspection port in the side of the heater box, so I could have a look at the evaporator. Looks like the evaporator may have been replaced at some point, probably when it was switched from R12 to R134. Either way, it still looks clean and fairly new. I blew 100 psi air through it at the firewall, and it doesn't appear to be restricted in any way, so I'm calling it good.
I'm also keeping the Suction side hose rig, since it appears that replacements are not available... None that I've been able to find anyway. :(

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Yep just did mine not a bad job. I used my old hoses and evap core over also. And you can get new hoses on rock auto. Only problem I had was the line coming out of the dryer the gasket kept leaking so I just put a o ring on it and it seemed to finally seal. Flange must be bent a little on that line. I also pulled the tube out of the low side line a long ways for the thermostatic switch to keep compressor running longer. Not as cold as r12 but it works and the water just pours out of the drain tube. Be careful not to break plastic inserts on compressor lines. One of mine broke and it's hard to line gasket up without it. Not sure where To get one. Also my expansion valve that came in kit was wrong. The low pressure switch was on the wrong side
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Started putting some of the A/C components back in the truck yesterday morning before the big winds came in.

Firstly, I relocated the Dryer about 1/2" closer to the firewall; the factory location was putting way too much strain on the hose and flange at the outlet side of the dryer. Probably why yours was leaking as well. The hose to the Exp. Vlv is a little to short, while the one coming from the condenser has plenty of slack, so relocating it was not an issue.
Ayuh... I was real careful with those alignment inserts that hold the compressor gaskets in place. The expansion valve came with new ones, but I have no replacements for the ones at the compressor.
I flushed the Evaporator, it was pretty clean as expected. Flushed the old suction hose assembly, and repainted the outside tubing's, etc. Tested the low pressure switch to make sure it was functioning correctly, and installed it in the side of the expansion valve. Then I installed the valve and attached the LP hose assembly. I also mounted the new Condenser, but haven't tied it into the system just yet.
The new replacement compressor is more or less identical to the OEM job I pulled out with one exception, The hose inlet ports are located roughly 1/4" to 3/8" closer to the clutch on this new Four Seasons compressor. I'm praying this won't cause an interference issue with anything above, as things are pretty tight in that area.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Finished the install and ran a quick vacuum leak check on the new system this morning. All looked good, so I pulled a vacuum on the system to dry it out. I had a lot of other things to take care of this morning as well, so it got thoroughly vacuum dried for 2.5 hours before I got back to it.
Checked the gages 30 minutes later and they hadn't moved, so it looks good. I couldn't charge the system today because I ran out of time, so I'll just leave everything in place until I can get back to it.
Keeping my fingers crossed in regards to the thermal cycling switch. I haven't tested it.... It was working fine before, but you never know. I did test the pressure switch SAT though, so no worries there.
 

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As of this morning, the A/C in the truck is now "fully functional".
I had to find an alternative replacement for the A/C Clutch Cycling Switch, since that "Solid State" OEM unit is no longer made, and mine was dead. I picked up a Murray 35720 which is a standard switch found in many older applications. The newer Murray units are adjustable as well. I had to make a minor alteration to my existing wiring connections, but that was no biggie, so I wired it up this morning. I didn't like the OEM location for the switch because it blocked my access to the pressure switch behind it. Not to mention the fact that it's a farg'n pain in the arss to work with in that location. That said, I relocated the cycling switch to the inner fender area, right next to the Voltage Regulator that I had previously relocated from it's original position.
Took the truck out for a spin... plenty of nice cool air now! It's the first time the truck has had a fully functioning A/C system since I bought it.... It's nice!

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I made one more small addition this morning.
I didn't like the idea of the capillary tubing for the switch just hanging out there with no protection, so I put a little foam on and a few ty-wraps to cover it for now. I'll throw a piece of wire loom over it when I come across a piece.

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Discussion Starter #8
I found a few scrap pieces of wire loom yesterday, so I finished the job.

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