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99 24v 5.9 hard starting

12818 Views 12 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  gabegoforth, 
G
So my dads 99 24v has been giving him trouble starting up. It cranks way long compared to what it should be doing. The fuel pump is on a 1year old and when I bump the starter the fuel pump doesn't go like they normally do. It just makes one click kinda. It used to go for about 10s. Also the wait to start light isn't coming on. The bulb is good, but a gauge light check sequence won't get it to come on. Today when I came home I found a fair sized puddle of fuel underneath it after bumping the starter. I didn't get a good look yet where it's coming from since it's to dam cold to really see what's going on. Stayed about 15* all day. Brothers 12v fired right off. My Ford fired up fast too. Bulldozer gave us a bunch of crap because it wasn't happy with the weather. New starter and battery cables should get it straightened out.


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G
Also it started to smoke more when it's cold starting. Used not smoke at all.


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Clunk
First off number 1, locate and repair the source of the fuel leak then check the lift pump fuel pressure.

On the '98.5 to 2000 Dodges, find the driver's side/most forward pipe plug on your fuel filter top. This is where you check lift pump fuel pressure.



Please disregard the "leakage point" description.
This setup is for getting pressure to a gauge mounted inside the truck, complete with a needle valve as shown.

Remove the plug, screw in a 0-30psi pressure gauge, do the keyswitch starter "bump" to get the Free 25 Second Lift Pump Run then check the pressure gauge you just installed. You'd like to see at least 10+psi to start the engine.
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Clunk said:
First off number 1, locate and repair the source of the fuel leak then check the lift pump fuel pressure.

On the '98.5 to 2000 Dodges, find the driver's side/most forward pipe plug on your fuel filter top. This is where you check lift pump fuel pressure.



Please disregard the "leakage point" description.
This setup is for getting pressure to a gauge mounted inside the truck, complete with a needle valve as shown.

Remove the plug, screw in a 0-30psi pressure gauge, do the keyswitch starter "bump" to get the Free 25 Second Lift Pump Run then check the pressure gauge you just installed. You'd like to see at least 10+psi to start the engine.
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Yeah that's the thing. I'm not getting the 25 second pump run. It won't do it for me. Is there a known PCM problem or what. There is though a definite leak on the ground. So I probably have multiple problems. I'll try getting a 30psi gauge from a friend to check it. I need to invest in one, but most rig im working on are more in the 50+ range. Maybe somebody makes a supper accurate disgutal gauge that has a wide range.


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C
You need to invest in a fuel pressure gauge ASAP!!!! If the wait to start isn't coming on you've got codes. Autoparts store has a scanner free of charge most times you can use or barrow maybe for a small fee when returned. If no codes and no WTS that's a indication of a failing ECM ($2000) from a dodge dealer. Get codes and fuel pressure then post back.
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cummins6sp5.9 said:
You need to invest in a fuel pressure gauge ASAP!!!! If the wait to start isn't coming on you've got codes. Autoparts store has a scanner free of charge most times you can use or barrow maybe for a small fee when returned. If no codes and no WTS that's a indication of a failing ECM ($2000) from a dodge dealer. Get codes and fuel pressure then post back.
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No codes. I'll check the fuel pressure. Could be a bad ECM or ground on it. The abs works half the time as well. I have stuck all kinda of scanners on it and the only one I ever get is the one revolving around the BD exhaust brake.


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G
Ok un able to check the fuel pressure cause the dam thing won't cycle. What known problems will keep the pump from cycling? Fuse and really are good. Also cleaned the battery terminals. Also like I said the wait to start light isn't coming on. Could this all be a intake air temp sensor? Cause I borrowed a buddies Bluepoint a while back and the sensor read perfectly normal. The light bulb is good, but I can't even get it to light up with a instrument light check.
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C
The ECM controls operation of the liftpump. Hot wire the lift pump wires to the battery. That will alow the liftpump to continuously. Start truck check fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the side of vp. It'll look like a tire valve. Also check power at the plug of vp with a meter. You can hook the power for the liftpump on the Hotside of a 20 amp fuse either from under the hood or on the side of dash. You need power when the key is ON then when the key is OFF it'll shut off. You'll need to eventually replace the ECM.
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G
Checked my pressure and I have 15psi running. The pump only cycled a few times. So definitely intermittent on the side of happening more often than not. Got both computers lined up and a local dude that's willing to flash them in. So about $400-500. Cause the fuel pump and other electrical is getting old. I guess 98.5 & 99 have terrible electrical. As well as all dodges in general. Every dodge cummins truck we have ever had needed a PCM,ECM, and or a TCM. Dodge and their electrical will make a person go crazy.


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my_samurai
ecm is going south. sorry bro.
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G
Dumb dodges.....


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my_samurai
gabegoforth said:
Dumb dodges.....


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You got that right..the motor is a beast...but dodge did a terrible job of wiring when they put together the 24v trucks. I can tell you this i know what ever damn wire on my truck goes to by color coding from doing so my tracing.
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my_samurai said:
You got that right..the motor is a beast...but dodge did a terrible job of wiring when they put together the 24v trucks. I can tell you this i know what ever damn wire on my truck goes to by color coding from doing so my tracing.
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Cummins is a awesome engine, but dodges body's and electrical really hurt them.


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