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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Passenger slave leaked a bunch of fluid soaking the inside of the drum before it left a small puddle on the ground one morning. Popped the new one in, and started ordering parts to fix everything broken. This project took Me 8 whole days and probably around the clock once.
I ran into 5 problems. First the two of the lower sliding points on the backing plate for the shoes needed to be weld filled and ground smooth. The Passenger side e brake cable end ball would fit through the parking brake return spring(needed to file it down so it was round instead of oval). I welded the edge of the new brake shoes where it rides on the backing plate because two of them were flush with the friction material. The Forman adjuster didn’t have the slot for the drivers side cable to sit in so I cut a slot a little narrower then the original one.

The parking brake return spring wraps around, and clips into the parking brake arm, but the one I might have bent a bit removing wouldn’t stay clipped, so I took some bailing wire wrapped it through the hoop under the arm around the return spring, back under the arm, and twisted the bailing wire together.I did that for both sides just for assurance.






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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
MY truck came with the p
Nice work!!

I have done everything i can do with the 94s rear brakes .
They only work OK.
Just dont seem to get enough pressure / juice .
I blame the olden anti lock alum block , or the compression coupling ( not my doing ) mid way to the brakes.

REAL CLOSE to re routing the rear brake line direct , via an aftermarket adjustable proportioning valve and a new hard line all the way back . I know one doesnt want tooo much rear stoppie , but id like to have enough to get the drums nice n warm , which rarely happens .

One detail which has stopped me from just jumping in ,, the lil hard line on the master clnd is bigger ( unknown if it bubble or double flared ) than the line that goes to the rear . Hopefully thats not a deal breaker .
IF anyone has done this , please share details .
thank you
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Dana 80. My brakes are excellent now. I would probably have to recalibrate the proportioning valve to use those cylinders eh? Also the Chevy might have bigger shoes and thicker drums. You could wreck the shoes, and warp the drums with the extra pressure maybe? Like compounding your brakes on a Semi truck.
Is that the Dana 70 or 80?

Dana 80s can be upgraded to Chevy 1 ton wheel slave cylinders for improved braking performance.
Not sure if this will work on the 70s through.
It's my understanding that all 3500s had d80s, and only 5-speed 2500s had d80s, while 2500 autos had d70s.

Some reading and feedback here:

RAYBESTOS WC37337
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Cummins12valve86.

IF those pictures were for me , looks like you still have the prop Valve and the anti lock all in the OEM config ?
There are no wheel speed sensors. I don’t know what that stuff is but it works. I slammed on my brakes in gravel, and loose gravel on pavement. The slightest little chirp and I’m stopped immediately.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
I’ll keep My drums. Every semi truck I’ve ever driven has them, and for good reason. They prevent dirt, and water from constantly bombarding the brakes. I’ve seen so many problems with rear discs it’s not even funny. When it comes to EV’s I’ll never get rid of My 12 valve, but the 2007 Honda CRV will go to some poor ******* if I can make enough money, Ill get a RAV4 Prime.

This is what gives Me ultimate power and control through the week plus sugar free rockstar, decaf Swiss coffee, and Organic green tea from southern Japan. I call it the sausage, and egg Mcgrease! Olive oil in the pan to thaw and cook the sausages covered on low, and a jalapeño mayo from Costco. Made with good old cancerous canola oil.
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For My next dose of healing My back pain other then stretching, and walking is to eat protein and vegetables. That’s about 2 weeks worth of coffee creamer. 😁
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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
Drum brakes are dumb. I know I know, they’re better, they’re still dumb. They’ll soon be a thing of the past. I’ve scoured my area for someone that will turn drums with no luck, and the Chinese shat that new drums are made of are shaped like an egg.

I recently picked up a D80 disc setup with LSD for 150 bucks. Needs a pinion seal, calipers, rotors, and e-brake equipment. I’m looking forward to getting rid of the drums.
I got My drums turned for $43 CAN out the door. One was out of round and took 4 hours, the other just took 2 hours. One hour for each pass. Only one place does it in town. It’s a shame you can’t, society has turned into a buy from China and toss away mentality. I would just buy the Chinese drums and get them turned 1000 miles away.
If I was smart I would have laid down in the pissing rain, and mud, and removed the two rear e brake cables out of the truck at the junk yard, and maybe found an adjuster that wasn’t rusted to **** too. Could have saved myself $100 and the planet!

Everything cost me about $250 only because I had some left over por15 kicking around, and the shoes where $100 cheaper on Amazon. Would have been like $140 if I recycledthe cables and adjuster from another truck, but who knows they have many different lengths for the passenger side.
 
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