Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum banner

21 - 31 of 31 Posts

Premium Member
Joined
510 Posts
Here's the thread that talks about the steering damper/ has the part number for the attachment needed.
.
.
.
 

Premium Member
Joined
2,002 Posts
Nice. Looks like I鈥檒l go this route when my current set up needs replacing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Premium Member
Joined
510 Posts
I had bought the $900 kit as it was going to cost me about that much anyway to replace the stock parts and my friend had go to the Synergy Kit and said it was fantastic and way easier that the stock stuff to set up. I have yet to do the swap as I'm waiting on some free time to complete it.
.
I was ordering everything off of Rock Auto as well. Looked at it all like a week ago
.

What were you looking at?? I just typed everything into Rock Auto today just see because I couldn't imagine they had tripled the price. It returned a price of $327.93 for everything (not including shipping). Did you have ball joints or something else in your Rock Auto cart too? Again, not bashing the synergy stuff, its great, but moog 98-99 HD is quite a bit cheaper.
.
.
.

906425
 

Registered
Joined
168 Posts
View attachment 906408

It worked on a 97 too. I used a synergy coupling. I had a thread about it on here that had the part number, I'll see if I can dig it up.
.
.
.
Thanks man, your the one that turned me on to it originally. It works great.
 

Registered
Joined
174 Posts
.

What were you looking at?? I just typed everything into Rock Auto today just see because I couldn't imagine they had tripled the price. It returned a price of $327.93 for everything (not including shipping). Did you have ball joints or something else in your Rock Auto cart too? Again, not bashing the synergy stuff, its great, but moog 98-99 HD is quite a bit cheaper.
.
.
.

View attachment 906425
I had Ball Joints In there as well with a new steering box seal. because if you haven't replaced those with in the last week they are all bad as well. Also idk if it matters but I was looking at the 2000 year stuff
 

Premium Member
Joined
510 Posts
I had Ball Joints In there as well with a new steering box seal. because if you haven't replaced those with in the last week they are all bad as well. Also idk if it matters but I was looking at the 2000 year stuff

Okay, but unless i'm mistaken, the Synergy stuff doesn't come with ball joints or steering box seals, so not a true price comparison to say they were about the same in cost. Decent ball joints typically last 100K miles or more (even the ultra cheap Chinese knockoff's usually go over 50K), so you must put on some serious mileage for them to only last a week, but it sure does seem like these truck have a designed steering box leak. I'm not sure that I've ever seen a 2nd gen dodge, with the stock steering box, that wasn't leaking at least a little. Maybe they made it off the new dealer lot not leaking, but I'm not sure.
.
.
.
 

Registered
Joined
174 Posts
IDK exactly what happened, but when I priced it out it was going to cost me like 800 for all new steering components. So I started looking at non-factory kits that were better then the stock components and found they were all pretty close to the $800-1000 range. The stock stuff is not very rigid and by going to a quality aftermarket kit like the synergy you will notice a more responsive and tighter handling truck. That statement is from all the research and talking to my buddy what conclusion I came to. I do know for a fact tho they did not brace the front frame well and if you do not get a steering brace for the gearbox and front frame, the frame will walk from side to side and cause you to feel "play" in the wheel. Also causing your steering box to become loose and or flex as well.

As for the statement about the ball joints. Normally if you have warn out steering components they will cause pre-mature wear on those because your toe is incorrect. So it is better to replace it all at one time then in stages. As for the timeline of a week I just kinda threw that out there; could they last longer sure they could. That's just a part I personally don't like to gamble on.

These trucks do not have a designed leak on the steering box. The leak comes from the flexing of the front frame and steering box its self. If you put a brace on the truck and a new seal where the pitman arm goes it will stop it from leaking. Like stated earlier the steering box was just not adequately braced for the load of turning a 2500. That load also amplifies if you put bigger wheels and tires on it that it came with factory. And you can increase that more if you decide to go with offset wheels.
 

Premium Member
Joined
510 Posts
The designed leak was a joke (I hope you took as it as such). But these era Dodge diesels fall into the same oil/ fluid leaking category as Harley Davidson's and pretty much anything British made, as in "if they're not leaking, then they're probably isn't anything in them".

While I certainly agree that quality aftermarket stuff is better than OEM (I'd love to have a bunch of Synergy/ DOR/ Carli stuff under my truck) , but the fact is Moog 98-99 HD OEM replacement stuff is around $300- 350 depending on where you get it and quality aftermarket is $800-900 for the equivalent replacement components. Yes, the aftermarket stuff is better, but they ARE NOT EVEN CLOSE to being the same price.
.
.
.
 

Registered
Joined
174 Posts
I mean your not wrong with the "if they're not leaking, then there probably isn't anything in them" 馃槀馃ぃ. But I was just stating you can fix that issue, it was a design flaw.

Yeah I'm really not sure what i had added extra on there I went back for my own sanity and added it all up again and was like $600 shipped with Moog Ball joints. So I guess I got the short straw on that. But whatever new Synergy steering and Carli ball joints here I come 馃ぃ馃槀. Even got me a new steering stabilizer and some new front U-joints.

On a side note I did read a write up here ( Which Dodge Ram Ball Joint Should You Buy? - Geno's Garage ) where they say that a lot of aftermarket ball-joints will oversize your stock control arm hole and that the Carli ball-joints were the only factory spec ones you could buy right now.
 

Registered
Joined
168 Posts
Using the T style steering from a 4th Gen Ram for the conversion isn't just bolt and go. The problem is that the tapered holes in the knuckles will have to be enlarged in order for the 4th Gen parts to fit. You can't simply drill out the tapered holes, they require a larger diameter TAPERED hole and NOT a straight diameter hole. You can however use the 98-99 HD t-steering setup as the knuckles are the right fit as the older gen trucks. Do some searching on it as there is tons of information posted about it.
 
21 - 31 of 31 Posts
Top