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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all.

I just picked up my first 1st gen. She's an intercooled D350 regular cab that had a mason dump body on it.

She's in rough shape, with roof rust, no bed, a blown trans and a missfiring 5.9 , however she has the most amazingly solid rust free chassis I've ever seen for a northeast truck, and I only paid six hundred bucks for her!

She does fire up and run though rough, and I did drive around the block in low gear only (skips over 2nd and slips terribly in 3rd). The floorpan in surprisingly solid with no holes and only mild surface rust under the carpet.

I plan on putting an 8' bed on her and converting to a w350 driveline. I'm not sure on how to go about fixing the roof as a bit of homework revealed no companies making repair panels for up there.

I'll get some photos of it today and post them up tonight. I'm sure I'll be needing plenty of help help and advice as I get going, so thanks in advance to all.

Fritz
 

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The roof rot is a common problem my old 92 had it, I cleaned it up as much as possible and filled the whole gutter with bondo and then coated the whole roof top with truck bed coating. It looked like a vinyl top from a distance bad thing every few years the coating I put on had to touch it up because the bondo wanted to crack in places and let water in.
 
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If the truck is a cab and chassis, the wheelbase is incorrect for a regular bed. Not to mention the rear axle width won't do dually on a regular bed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If the truck is a cab and chassis, the wheelbase is incorrect for a regular bed. Not to mention the rear axle width won't do dually on a regular bed.
No, it was a pickup from the factory. Four of the bed mounts are still on the frame. Every used bed I've found so far needs bedsides anyway, so modifying to dually is the plan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here are a few photos of the truck as it sits now:
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
...... and then coated the whole roof top with truck bed coating. It looked like a vinyl top from a distance.....
I like that idea a lot. I may grind the roof down to bare metal, treat in with rust converter, fiberglass mat the holes, and then bedliner it.

The rockers and cab corners are mint on this truck. I did pull the carpet out yesterday and find a relatively small rust hole in the floor tunnel however.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
After doing a bit of internet homework, it seems the first order of business on this truck should be to cut off the broken & worn out front suspension and get the 4X4 suspension in.

I soon discovered that my D350 did not come with e the front/front spring hanger mount holes in the frame rails. Fortunately I have a D150 in the shop at the moment which did have the holes drilled from the factory.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I swapped out my drillbit for a 7/16" centercutting endmill and drilled out what ought to be a pretty accurate steel template to transfer the second set of holes over to the D350 frame.

 

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I'll throw in my two cents...

The stock hanger locations are only useful if running stock (length) springs and a stock type diff. Might to time to suss out what 4wd parts you can get your hands on easily/cheaply. A Ford diff/springs isn't a bad way to go.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'll throw in my two cents...

The stock hanger locations are only useful if running stock (length) springs and a stock type diff. Might to time to suss out what 4wd parts you can get your hands on easily/cheaply. A Ford diff/springs isn't a bad way to go.
Yeah, you're right.
The thing is I haven't tipped my hand yet, I'm holding more cards than you can see, and the donor has already been acquired.

I am however, very intrigued by the multi-position front hanger brackets offered by Jungle Jim and Archive Garage. The option of running different heights and length Dodge or Chevy springs seems like a good option to have. Regardless, whether stock brackets, aftermarket, or custom fabbed at home, they all need to mount to the frame rails. That's why I figured I'd start by drilling the frame at the stock locations.
 

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Donor for the win (y)

I dunno what you're building this D/W350 to do. I use my W250 like a W450 lol... I went with a heavy-duty tapered leaf - basically a copy of what Ford uses in a 2.5" wide format. I felt the 52" rear stuff was too much lift, on too thin a main leaf, on a steer axle, to have a 6BT riding over it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I took a few more photos today. These really showcase the roof rust:



These show how nice the frame is:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I decided to tackle the engine misfire this morning. Touching the exhaust manifold after running for a minute told me that #1 cylinder was not contributing as its port was ice cold to the touch.
I figured I would swap injectors #1 and #2 to see if the misfire follows the injector to the #2 position.

923536


Unfortunately the miss stayed on #1 after the swap, so its not going to be so easy.
I guess I'll pop off the valve cover and see if I have any tight(open) valves at the adjuster.
If I don't get lucky there, then I guess the head will have to come off and I'll take a peek at the valves & piston.

Fingers crossed.
 

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Does the drip edge across the front above the windshield have holes rusted into it, that's what usually happens on these trucks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Does the drip edge across the front above the windshield have holes rusted into it, that's what usually happens on these trucks.
Yes, it does on the left front corner.
 

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Yes, it does on the left front corner.
There has been a few discussions about that problem over the years and don't remember if anyone found a good fix for that other then a different roof skin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yeah, it's kind of ridiculous how they have new cab corners and rocker panels and floor pans available, but nobody makes roof skin!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So, I sold my 2nd gen gasser yesterday. As a result I have a pocket full of cash and I've begun shopping for parts for this project.
I ordered frame paint, front spring hanger brackets, a belt tensioner & serp belt, and a killer dowel pin tab kit.

I was going to pull the trigger on very clean birdbath hood, but then researched what was involved in installing it. It seems I'll need the cowl panel between the hood and windshield as well as an early rad support. Mixed reviews on whether it will clear the 5.9 radiator shroud mounts and rad cap.

As a result, I think I'll just buy a new stock aftermarket hood.

On a side note, I found this thread:

That's what my truck would have looked like new! It has the exact same paint scheme right down to the red pinstripe where the PS2 meets the PW7.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
On Friday I had the truck towed to my house so that I could work on it whenever I had some spare time rather than trying to just jam in a little bit of time on my lunch hours at work.
Of course the beautiful 60 to 70° weather that we had been having here in New York came to a grinding halt, and I was treated to temperatures in the 30s and 40s and high winds all weekend.

As a result I did not get a whole lot accomplished. I did however get the front bumper off, remove the fuel tank, remove the seats and carpeting, and do a whole bunch of cleaning.
I discovered that while the underside of the cab is rust free there was some surface rust forming on the inside of the floor under the wet carpeting. Apparently rain is leaking through the hole in the roof and running down to the interior. So I'll have to address that roof sooner than later.

Also my phone does not like the lighting in my driveway so out of the dozen photos I took most of them totally suck and you can't see any detail whatsoever. So here's a few that you can actually see.

923537

923538

I also ordered a crap-load of parts, so this next week should be a busy one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Oh, I forgot to ask one thing, I read somewhere that the W & D cab floors are different at the "hump" or "tunnel" as the W's have a transfer case beneath. Does anyone have photos of the differences? If I need to raise my tunnel, I'd like to do it before treating and repairing the floor rust.

Thanks
 
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