I wonder if the transmission cooler is putting to much extra heat through the radiator. Do you have a trans temp gauge to see what your trans temps are running?
Couple things stood out to me in this list.Hello,
Things of note-
EGT at idle seem a lot higher than my 7.3.
In drive with ac on egts on the cummins are between 550-660
in drive at idle I have a bit of black smoke out the exhaust
fan seems to be pushing air OUT the sides of the shroud - I have already trimmed more shroud to let more air out the back (towards engine) but it still throws air out the small gap between shroud and radiator
I kinda wondered about the Ducky injectors myself.Couple things stood out to me in this list.
1. EGT's are way too high at idle. I think you have a timing or injector issue to be honest. This is evident by the black smoke at idle, high EGT's, and high jacket water temps.
2. Fan should be a pull type. It is somewhat normal for a fan blade to throw air radially away from the fan blade. This is how centrifugal pumps work.
3. Are your electric fans mounted in front actually causing a significant restriction on the air flow? Are they moving air the same way as the mechanical?
To be honest, spend most of your time on #1. I'm betting it resolves your overheating issue.
I've had a similar issue before and the coolant temps dropped way down when the timing was corrected.
Yes the injector pop pressure is different and if I remember correctly P-Pump injectors are a different thread on the injector nuts.Isn't the VE pop pressure lower than the P7100?
If it is, and injectors set at P7100 pop pressure are installed, that should retard the injection events, not advance them.
Which could explain the black smoke at idle I suppose, if the injection events were happening a lot later than they're suppose to. Could that cause high idle EGT as well?
Yep. It's an U shaped curve.Could that cause high idle EGT as well?
If the pop test is free, start there...If those are good then there may be something off with your injection pump (despite it being rebuilt).Are we talking enough adjustment in the slotted holes to make timing far off enough to cause something like this? It is a major pain to get to that back pump bolt but I will gladly retard/advance the pump with the adjustment slots if it could be off that much. Pump was locked when I got it back from being rebuilt, lined up to "E" on cam gear. I did have to pull the pump after cam break in to fix tappet cover leak but I did not remove the front cover, just locked the pump, removed, and slid back into gear/keyway.
I suspect your issue would get worse with timing more retarded than not but that would probably prove out the theory. I think you're in a very retarded condition (the engine, not you personally).Ok. Cool. One other thing I was wondering. If by some chance the injectors were much larger than what I ordered (5x12) it seem like that might also cause similar problems. The flow specs for my pump are below. When I first got everything together the smoke/egts were nuts. I had to back off the smoke screw 5 full turns and rotate the fuel pin from where they had it when it was built (most aggressive setting) to almost the least aggressive setting. I talked to the pump builder and he said it should not have smoked crazy with only 5X12 with the way he set it up. I gave him all the build info before he rebuilt the pump. Injection shop in town said they could pop test injectors and test for leakage, but he said he would try to retard the pump and see what effect it has.
stock fuel pin and screw, 366 gov spring
1000 rpm/ 0 psi boost- 70cc
1500 rpm/ 0 psi boost- 100cc
1500 rpm/ 20 psi boost- 160cc
2000 rpm/ 20 psi boost- 160cc
2500 rpm/ 20 psi boost- 160cc
3000 rpm/ 20 psi boost- 150cc
3200+ rpm defuel