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I moved this to the Conversion Section.

The 12" cooling fans are not big enough you need the biggest CFM 16" cooling fans you can get.

I have 1 16" on my 96 F350 and it does ok unless it's extremely hot and not moving much.
 
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Are you sure you have all the air bled out of the cooling system? Sometimes you have to jack the front of the truck up to get it all out.
 

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Do you have the smoke screw ( pre boost ) flush on the inside of the AFC top?

Is the IP just about or all the way to the head to advance the timing?

Are you sure those Ducky's are popped to spec?

If it was mine i'd jack the front of the truck up about 8-10" and leave it like that overnight then pull out the pipe plug at the front of the head to see if anything comes out. I have a radiator drain petcock in that plug so it's easier to check.
 

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I have DAP 5x12's in my 97 and THD 5x12's in my 92 and they don't smoke and I have a hx35 on both engines.

It's not going to cost you anything to jack the front up and check it at least it would rule out that problem.

I used the 1st Gen Ic and radiator in my 96 F350 with a single 16'" electric fan and no engine fan and very seldom have cooling issues. Unless it's extremely hot out like I said.
 
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I don't have AC on either truck. Is the overheating just happening when the AC is on?

I only have a Pyro on my Ford and i've never seen over 1200 degrees and I have my VE pump turned up. The Ford is my hauling and towing truck also.
 

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If it was mine i'd be testing the cooling system with the AC off, that way if you still have overheating problems you'll know it's not because of the AC.

I have my stock fuel pin ground for more fuel, power screw is in about 2 turns, smoke screw flush on the inside and timing advanced. I don't see over 25 psi of boost, have a HVLP set at 8 psi and never drops below 6 psi.

A boost gauge will tell you if your having boost problems.
 

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In my Fummins swap truck I used a giant fan off some industrial Cummins I think (part number visible pics on page 8 of the below linked thread) the stock 12 valve fan is actually kinda small. I have no issues overheating issues driving around in San Antonio with the AC on in traffic, temp never get above low 190's.

The only issue I have (more of an annoyance really), is before the engine heats up and the fan clutch kicks in, their isn't enough airflow across the AC condenser to make it work well. So when you first get in the truck and its hot as all heck inside, the AC kinda sucks until either you start driving or the engine get up to temp enough for the fan to actually start pulling air. But once the engine is up to temp , and the fan clutch is working, the AC works fine even at stoplights/ in traffic.

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If he's using the 1st Gen fan it's smaller then a 2nd Gen fan.
 

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I wonder if the transmission cooler is putting to much extra heat through the radiator. Do you have a trans temp gauge to see what your trans temps are running?
 

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Couple things stood out to me in this list.
1. EGT's are way too high at idle. I think you have a timing or injector issue to be honest. This is evident by the black smoke at idle, high EGT's, and high jacket water temps.
2. Fan should be a pull type. It is somewhat normal for a fan blade to throw air radially away from the fan blade. This is how centrifugal pumps work.
3. Are your electric fans mounted in front actually causing a significant restriction on the air flow? Are they moving air the same way as the mechanical?

To be honest, spend most of your time on #1. I'm betting it resolves your overheating issue.

I've had a similar issue before and the coolant temps dropped way down when the timing was corrected.
I kinda wondered about the Ducky injectors myself.
 

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A injector leaking around the hold down nut usually just means to tighten the nut some more and the leak usually stops. If it doesn't stop then there must be dirt at the sealing surface copper washer.

I would have the injectors tested.
 

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The Pop pressure is real important on a mechanical injector.
 

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Isn't the VE pop pressure lower than the P7100?

If it is, and injectors set at P7100 pop pressure are installed, that should retard the injection events, not advance them.

Which could explain the black smoke at idle I suppose, if the injection events were happening a lot later than they're suppose to. Could that cause high idle EGT as well?
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Yes the injector pop pressure is different and if I remember correctly P-Pump injectors are a different thread on the injector nuts.
 

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Pushing the IP to just about all the way to the head isn't to much timing, I have my there and so do alot of others. It's the best way to remove unwanted smoke when you have your IP turned up.

I would have the injectors pop tested.
 

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The jiggle pins is to help with the temp swings because of the big Dodges radiators.
 
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