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Discussion Starter #1
Have an 07 2500 mega cab 5.9 4wd auto. Started noticing a slight vibration from a stop when towing or loaded. Was noticeably worse if you were turning while taking off. I'm not talking about punching it either, just gentle take offs. Vibration starred getting worse and would do it without a load. Checked end and it was a quart low. Added 75/90 oil. Still has the vibration. Checked ujoints and none had play but the rear one squeaked. Pulled driveline and couldn't move the rear most ujoint by hand at all. Replaced all 3 joints with new moog units. Drove truck about 11 miles home all was good. Drive to work the next morning and while making a u turn to park noticed a very pronounced shudder. Had a guy i work with drive it to verify. He pinned it down to being at 7mph and going away about 10mph. Thought maybe i didn't get the new ujoints centered. Put it on the lift and gave all the joints a good smack to help center the caps. No avail. Still shudders. Runs perfect as soon as you get below 7 or over 10. Front driveline is tight. Truck has 104k miles and the diff oils were changed by the dealer around 60k.
 

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Check them, Dodge trucks have been known not to be correct on some trucks. Also check to make sure the 2 piece shaft is phased correct, look up on google to see what i mean by Phased.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Check them, Dodge trucks have been known not to be correct on some trucks. Also check to make sure the 2 piece shaft is phased correct, look up on google to see what i mean by Phased.
The driveline is phased correctly. Didn't take the slip joint apart when i changed the joints. I'll check the angle but it seems weird that this vibration really became apparent after changing the ujoints.
 

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After you installed the ujoint they moved smooth when you moved it in all range of motion? Also it never did it before you install the ujoints? Was their a hanger bearing shim that maybe you forgot to reinstall?
 

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Carrier bearing is shot.
 
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02smokin

^^ what he said.
would say get a 1 piece custom, but think that even in 5" alum tube, the mega is too long a DL for 1 piece.

Next best thing, take it to a DL shop and have it spun balanced.
 

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If he just changed the u joints i would think he checked the hanger bearing?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
After you installed the ujoint they moved smooth when you moved it in all range of motion? Also it never did it before you install the ujoints? Was their a hanger bearing shim that maybe you forgot to reinstall?
If there was a shim, I never saw it....
 

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After you installed the ujoint they moved smooth when you moved it in all range of motion? Also it never did it before you install the ujoints? Was their a hanger bearing shim that maybe you forgot to reinstall?
Yes everything moved freely after new ujoints.
 

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The carrier spun freely when i had the drive shaft out. Only thing i did notice was it moves alot in the rubber. Had a new one on hand when i did the joints and it moved just as much so i didn't replace it.
You just proved my point... get it replaced
 
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Discussion Starter #14
If the new carrier moved just as much, why is the old one bad? I'm not asking to be a jerk, I'm asking because i want to know what I'm missing.
 

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If the new carrier moved just as much, why is the old one bad? I'm not asking to be a jerk, I'm asking because i want to know what I'm missing.
The new one won’t. As they age the rubber breaks down and becomes more flexible and softer. You may be able to move the new rubber but it will be much stiffer and more rigid.
 

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The carrier spun freely when i had the drive shaft out. Only thing i did notice was it moves alot in the rubber. Had a new one on hand when i did the joints and it moved just as much so i didn't replace it.
You just proved my point... get it replaced
What point was proven exactly here?
 

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Hate to tell you but being twice over recommended oil change on rear axle, and a quart low not helping.
Hopefully marked everything during ujoint replace, Everything needed to go back same orientation.
Can check with large hose clamps
PROPELLER SHAFT BALANCE
If propeller shaft is suspected of being out of balance, use the following procedure.
NOTE: Indexing propeller shaft 180° relative to the
yoke may eliminate some vibrations.
1. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Clean all foreign material from the propeller shaft and universal joints.
3. Inspect propeller shaft for missing balance weights, broken welds and bent areas. If propeller shaft is bent, it must be replaced.
4. Inspect universal joints for wear and properly installed.
5. Check propeller shaft bolt torques.
6. Remove wheels and install lug nuts to retain brake rotors.
7. Mark and number the shaft six inches from the pinion yoke end at four positions 90° apart.
8. Run and accelerate vehicle until vibration occurs. Note the intensity and speed the vibration occurred. Stop the engine.
9. Install a screw clamp at position (1).
10. Start engine and check vibration. If there is little or no change move the clamp to the next positions.
Repeat the vibration test.
NOTE: If there is no difference in vibration at this positions, the vibration may not be the propeller shaft.
11. If vibration decreased, install a second clamp (1)and repeat the test.
12. If additional clamp causes an additional vibration, separate the clamps 1/2 inch (1) above and below
the mark. Repeat the vibration test.
13. Increase distance between the clamp screws (1)
(2) and repeat test, until the least amount of vibration is noticed. Bend the slack end of the clamps so screws will not loosen.
14. If vibration remains unacceptable, repeat the procedure to the front end of the propeller shaft.
15. Install wheels and lower vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hate to tell you but being twice over recommended oil change on rear axle, and a quart low not helping.
Hopefully marked everything during ujoint replace, Everything needed to go back same orientation.
Can check with large hose clamps
PROPELLER SHAFT BALANCE
If propeller shaft is suspected of being out of balance, use the following procedure.
NOTE: Indexing propeller shaft 180° relative to the
yoke may eliminate some vibrations.
1. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Clean all foreign material from the propeller shaft and universal joints.
3. Inspect propeller shaft for missing balance weights, broken welds and bent areas. If propeller shaft is bent, it must be replaced.
4. Inspect universal joints for wear and properly installed.
5. Check propeller shaft bolt torques.
6. Remove wheels and install lug nuts to retain brake rotors.
7. Mark and number the shaft six inches from the pinion yoke end at four positions 90° apart.
8. Run and accelerate vehicle until vibration occurs. Note the intensity and speed the vibration occurred. Stop the engine.
9. Install a screw clamp at position (1).
10. Start engine and check vibration. If there is little or no change move the clamp to the next positions.
Repeat the vibration test.
NOTE: If there is no difference in vibration at this positions, the vibration may not be the propeller shaft.
11. If vibration decreased, install a second clamp (1)and repeat the test.
12. If additional clamp causes an additional vibration, separate the clamps 1/2 inch (1) above and below
the mark. Repeat the vibration test.
13. Increase distance between the clamp screws (1)
(2) and repeat test, until the least amount of vibration is noticed. Bend the slack end of the clamps so screws will not loosen.
14. If vibration remains unacceptable, repeat the procedure to the front end of the propeller shaft.
15. Install wheels and lower vehicle.
What's the recommended oil change interval? Rear end oil was changed by dealer around 60k. Truck only has 104k on it.
 

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What point was proven exactly here?
The carrier spun freely when i had the drive shaft out. Only thing i did notice was it moves alot in the rubber. Had a new one on hand when i did the joints and it moved just as much so i didn't replace it.
Im thinkin’ maybe this?
 

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Even brand new they sag and move a lot, they are a poor design.
 
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