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White Lightning
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Discussion Starter #1
The MegaCab currently has 52,644 miles on it. I'd been contemplating performing the transmission service on it since I crested the 50K mark, but the weather just now was cooperative enough to do so.

I purchased the filters (Spin-on # 5179267AC $14.56 and Sump # 5013470AD $26.33) 2 gallons of MOPAR ATF+4 (# 5013458AA $24.12 each) and 4 quart bottles (# 5013457AA $6.05 each) and one tube RTV Sealer (# 5010884AA $4.62) at Mann Chrysler in Richmond, Kentucky.

Apparently the Cummins Gorilla is no longer installing oil filters on the 6.7L's in Indiana. They are now installing the spin-on filters and tightening the single screw that secures the sump filter inside the 68RFE's nowadays. :rof He must have had a long run as CTD Oil Filter Installer as my 1998 RAM 2500 12V, 2000 RAM 2500 Quad Cab, and 2003 RAM 2500 Crew Cab all required a combination of cussin' spittin' and other colorful ideas in removal of the OEM oil filters.

First snafu : Dealer said I'd only need about 5 or 6 quarts of ATF+4. I called BS on this as my 2000 Dodge RAM 2500 Quad Cab w/CTD & 47RH required nearly 8 quarts when I changed it. You'll notice I purchased twelve quarts total......I had to buy a portion of it in quart bottles as I took the last two gallons they had on the shelf. I asked about their return policy as I was 26 miles or so from Richmond and that I'd rather return some later instead of being too low after the change. No problem....

I live about 26 miles from Richmond, so the truck had a good 60 miles +/- by the time I got home.....suitable for a good drain and scalding when I drop the pan. :rof I'm a glutton for punishment I guess....

I get the pan off and prepare to remove the old RTV from the pan while the fluid continues to drain. The spin-on filter (this filters the transmission fluid from the transmission cooler via the return line) is to be tightened ony 3/4 turn after gasket contacts upon installation. The Cummins Gorilla sure did a lot more than that on mine. Time for the small oil filter wrench.

The single screw that secures the sump filter was not torqued to any specs. I don't have any torx sockets, but do have a torx screwdriver assortment. I eventually had to wrap a rag around my T-25 and put a pair of channel locks on it to remove this poor screw. Cummins Gorilla strikes again!!!!!!

The above steps probably only consume about 30 minutes or so. The sump filter also came with a new o-ring seal where the neck goes into the transmission. They send a replacement for a reason......so I then spend the next 3 hours or so trying to remove the old one. :buttkick: Knowing what I know now.....the old one would still be in there. :S: Anyway, after more cussin' and spittin' the new o-ring is in.

I tossed in 6 quarts off the bat, checked for leaks, and re-checked the fluid level. I then added two more quarts. I then have my wonderful wife Becky perform a 10 mile round-trip test drive (a severly soaked right arm sleeve of a sweatshirt and center console don't play well together) and re-check....adding two more quarts. The level is now between the two upper "HOT" marks, but I'll most like add another 12 to 16 ozs after I test drive it on a longer trip sometime. Essentially I'll be at 10.5 quarts or so.....a far cry from 5 or 6 quarts, huh???

The OEM fluid.....even with some light towing that I have performed....still really looked very good. I'll most likely just perform a flush around 100k miles and skip the filters then.

I cleaned up my work area and then cleaned up myself......including ditching my blood-soaked appearing sweatshirt, and then took Ol' Blue out for a drive. All is well......... :party018:
 

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Thanks for the writeup. I will probably change mine this fall, after towing 5th wheel around Colorado this summer. I am about 34K miles now, but most of my miles are towing. I save these type threads so when I do this job I have some good tips. Thanks again.
 

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White Lightning
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I purchased the filters (Spin-on # 5179267AC $14.56 and Sump # 5013470AD $26.33) 2 gallons of MOPAR ATF+4 (# 5013458AA $24.12 each) and 4 quart bottles (# 5013457AA $6.05 each) and one tube RTV Sealer (# 5010884AA $4.62)

I get the pan off and prepare to remove the old RTV from the pan while the fluid continues to drain.
Re-read post #1 above.... My transmission had never been serviced before. Upon further investigation, these guys offer a re-useable pan gasket :

http://www.enterpriseengine.com/shop/68rfe-automatic-transmission-pan-gasket-re-usable/



Maybe yours was serviced previously?????
 

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White Lightning
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Discussion Starter #5
The MegaCab is currently at 113,356 miles, and it's getting transmission service #2 today. I'll reply back later when I'm done and have everything cleaned up (pictures to follow). The pan has been off about one hour and forty five minutes......I'll install the spin on and sump filters then apply the RTV to the pan in a few minutes and button it up. It's amazing how much fluid continues to drip out from the spin-on filter base.....but I'm glad. Drove the truck around some trying to get the transmission fluid warm before dropping the pan....the best I could do was about 132*F (about 62*F above ambient).
 

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White Lightning
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
The old sump filter & spin-on filter
 

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Just put my new AFE pan on a couple of weeks ago, and bought a case of Valvoline ATF-4 figuring I would have enough left to do the transfer case. With the added 2.5 quarts of the pan, I ended up using all 12 quarts. Went with a Fel-Pro hard rubber gasket that seems to be working just fine. :party018:
 

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If you still have the pan off, I have a suggestion. Go to your nearest autoparts store and buy a B&M transmission drain plug. I installed one in mine. Then you could pull the plug instead of getting soaked.
 

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White Lightning
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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Transmission Pan & variable speed drill w/wire brush that I used for removing the old RTV material. This thing was dry as a bone since the last service.
 

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White Lightning
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
A small portion of the pan gasket removed.....
 

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White Lightning
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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Transmission pan all cleaned up......including the magnet. :S:
 

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White Lightning
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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Sump filter, RTV sealer, and spin on filter.
 

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White Lightning
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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I took a 1/4" drive ratchet and "cleaned" the threads by holding the pan bolts in an old shirt. This is to clean any old RTV that remains stuck to the bolts....so there's no leak issues and no installing issues. You can see a small portion of leftover RTV from one bolt in the upper right hand corner.

 

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White Lightning
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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Clean pan & magnet with fresh RTV sealant curing for the install.....

I used a 9 mm 1/4" socket and nut driver to re-install the pan bolts. I went over the bolts 5 or 6 times by hand to ensure even tightening of the pan bolts. Lastly, I used a 1/4" drive ratchet and snugged them about 1/8 of a turn or so.
 

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White Lightning
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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
A shot of the underside of the transmission with new spin-on and sump filters, just prior to installation of the pan.
 

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White Lightning
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Discussion Starter #16
My trans fluid was up to 132*F when I began the work. After dropping the pan, I immediately removed the sump filter and spin-on filter. I allowed it to drain for a tad over 2 hours.....there was a constant trickle from the spin-on filter area after removal. I'm right now at 10 quarts and will tweak it with a few more ounces after another short drive.
 

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Good write up
thanks
 

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White Lightning
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Discussion Starter #20
I did not drain the torque convertor. The overhaul fill on a 68RFE is around 16.5---17.5 quarts, so I was quite happy with getting 10.5 quarts out by draining, especially since the first service was around 50k miles.

I've read where others have disconnected one of the transmission lines and inserted into a bucket, start the truck, then shut off when the fluid stops pumping. I elected to not do that.
 
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