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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a 110k mile truck with auto.
I have owned a g56 6.7 before but this auto kinda scars me. Looking for tips on what to do to nake it last. Won't be towing everyday but will tow 10-15k few times a month.
Some say to put a larger pan on? I have also heard there can be too "much" extra fluid and cause cavitation? I was also told to change the fluid every 20k and continue on..
I have an edge cts for temp purposes. Any help appreciated! Thanks phil


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I take it this a stock truck? What year? When towing use the tow/haul mode always. Utilize turbo brake as necessary. I would change tranny fluid and filters. Use ATF+4 and Mopar filters only. Use a reputable shop as this needs to be done correctly. A good mechanic ASE certified can tell you the condition of the used fluid which will give you insight on the condition of the transmission.

Half the mileage on my truck has been towing. Mine has seen some pretty big hauls one trip was 2500 miles pulling a 28 foot enclosed race car trailer 10' foot high ceiling stuffed to the gills. Drove 70 to 85 mph including thru the Ozark mountains.

I changed my tranny oil about 10,000 miles earlier than the manual recommended. 55,000 vs 65,000 miles. The fluid looked good.

Would recommend looking up posts by Transengineer to resolve any hearsay or myths!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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Other than getting an aftermarket tranny, the best thing you can do is get some sort of tuning for the 68rfe. H&S, Draconian Diesel, co-pilot are just a few I've heard of. You can see the one I use in my sig and am very happy with it. It bumps up the line pressure (as much as it can) and changes the shift patterns, a big improvement from stock. I think once mine finally goes I'm going with Revmax. Lots of good reviews on here. Good luck.
 

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TransEngineer replied to a post I made early on just after I got my 08 with 180k on the clock, when I asked what I should look out for while towing my ~ 8k to 10k loads on long trips out West over some serious hills.

He said there's a valve body bore that is prone to wear and it feeds pressure to the converter lockup. So less pressure = more chance for slip, and altho there are kits available for that, he said by the time you take the vb out and disassemble it and ream that bore out for the valve kit you're better off replacing the vb. A number of guys have highly recommended the RevMax towing valve body. And of course with towing, heat is the big enemy. Gets dangerous at much over about 200 deg or so. Deeper pan is great, temp gauge is a must, and you may find you also need an aux cooler besides.


I've just got a RevMax 550 and am in the process of learning it. Part of the package is to get Dave Mathews with Draconian Diesel to flash the trans control module. Altho all my driving has been easy so far, as instructed, I'm very impressed with how it shifts. ( Several years ago I built a 47re+ equivalent for my 5.9 Durango with a BD valve body which is an absolutely super towing setup, and so far this one shifts just like that one does.) Other guys have said theirs now shifts like it should have from the factory.

And both RevMax (I dealt with Tom) and Dave have been super to work with.

One thing about a RevMax trans, besides all the normal internal upgrades and a deep pan, their package also comes with a triple disc converter which is usually lots of $ extra.

You're headed the right way. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So far everyone os saying to add a deep pan.
I'm goin to make a few calls about trans tuning later this week.
Now this valve body.. Can it be ran with the stock TC?


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I'm now almost 100k miles on my truck. I tow the 5th wheel in my SIG regularly. So far, no issues with the trans. Early on, I had much overheating until I realized that at stop-n-go/slow speeds, I could just drop into 4LO for the TC to lock-up and cool the trans down.

I do have a deep pan (Mag-Hytec) trans pan and am also thinking about an after-market electric trans fan..
 

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I run the revmax vb, with a deep pan, and overdrive tuning, on a stock converter at 225 line pressure. Makes a huge difference over stock. And holding up well. Tows very welll. Will be adding an aux. Cooler because i do alot of towing in the hills around me at low speeds. With the added lp it can get a little too warm for my liking. But im paranoid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I run the revmax vb, with a deep pan, and overdrive tuning, on a stock converter at 225 line pressure. Makes a huge difference over stock. And holding up well. Tows very welll. Will be adding an aux. Cooler because i do alot of towing in the hills around me at low speeds. With the added lp it can get a little too warm for my liking. But im paranoid.
Who did your trans tuning? I'm one of those paranoid people as well. Especially being my first auto.


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It is the revmax tuning. Got it from dave mathews.
 

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I'm now almost 100k miles on my truck. I tow the 5th wheel in my SIG regularly. So far, no issues with the trans. Early on, I had much overheating until I realized that at stop-n-go/slow speeds, I could just drop into 4LO for the TC to lock-up and cool the trans down.

I do have a deep pan (Mag-Hytec) trans pan and am also thinking about an after-market electric trans fan..
To the OP and BruteForce, I would highly recommend one of the auto trans coolers that turn on at specified trans temps and shut off automatically. Makes a world of difference on trans temps. Look into B&M trans coolers.
 
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You can also add a second OEM trans cooler, stacked in front of the existing one. There's plenty room between the radiator and intercooler. My brother did that on his truck. Dropped trans temps a lot. There's a good write up with photos about it on here somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I did some looming around lastnight. Is the transgo shift kit worth anyrhing? Or just swap valvebodys and add the magtec pan when i service it?


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If you have an 07.5-09 oem valve body, then just swap it. The ssv bore is gonna wear and youre gonna have to replace it anyway.

So go MH pan, and VB. I did, and very pleased. Plus with the Revmax VB you can run higher LP.
 

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The way to keep your automatic going for many years is to keep the fluid clean. This means regular maintenance. My truck has 210,000 KMs on the clock with about 90,000 of that pulling 9,000 LBs with another 1,000 in the box. Fluid and filters were changed every 50,000 KMs. No problems to this point.
The newer ('09 and up) Vbs have coated bores to protect against wear. So replacing the VB is an upgrade.
The Trans Go kit will give you crisper shifts. I have used them many times on gasser transmissions but I would hesitate to stack any transmission "shift kit" with a programmer. In the future, if you plan to do deletes with a programmer (H&S or EFI Live), I would not install a shift kit. JMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for all the info. I do plan to delete. Just haven't made my mind ul yet. Do to the fact that the trans has its own computer. I had a smarty jr "me" on my g56 6.7 and was hally with it on 40hp. But im worried of hurting the auto. 40hp is over 10% which will supposibly slip TC. Just deleting for milage and to get that soot out of the intake anyways


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I tow a 15000 lb 5er fulltime coast to coast.Since new,Now have 95000 miles. Trans is stock untouched
original fluid still looks good but will be changed soon. I say you will be just fine. Deletes of course are the way to go. Did mine off the showroom floor and have never seen the dealer.
 
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