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Discussion Starter #1
Hello. i have a 2016 dodge ram 3500, with the 68rfe. I rebuilt the transmission, revmax rebuild kit, revmax 550 input clutch, billet input shaft, triple disc torque converter, Revmax high pressure oil pump, rexmax heavy duty towing valve body.
I took it to the dodge dealership, to get trans relearn. when it shifted into second gear, it kind of hesitated, then slammed into gear. i now have Codes P0732, P0871, P0841.... it went into limp mode gear 1, and 4, and then when i restarted wouldnt leave 1st gear. when i was rebuilding i double checked clutch clearances, and air tested, and all was good. Does anyone have any ideas? i swapped my old solenoid valve over to new valve body, could that be the issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i thought it blew apart, because clutches kept slipping. but upon disassembly, most of them looked in good shape, compared to any other 68rfe's ive pulled apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ya. i installed a new valve body too, so it wouldnt be that.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My Park Reverse Neutral and Drive Have all turned from White to Yellow Now. would this be a communication issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ya. i was hoping he might chime in.
 

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Subd.. I had the same issue a while back, happened at the most inconvienent time brought it to a trans shop who just swapped the entire trans to reduce down time.. always felt that it was overkill but I don’t know enough about transmissions..
 

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Discussion Starter #11
update. the revmax valve body that i installed in my 2016, was ordered originally for my 2010.....i installed white solenoid pack, and had no forward gears, only reverse.
i now installed grey solenoid pack (late model) on, early model valve body. it now shifts 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, but dosnt hold the gears long. could this be because transmission hasn't been to dealer for relearn yet? havent tried overdrives yet,,,,

Can you use a late style grey connector solenoid on early valve body?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Another update.

I got a hold of another white connector solenoid pack. installed it, completed transmission quick learn.
it shifts 1st,2nd, 3rd real good, goes into 4th makes a bit of a whining noise, stays in gear a couple seconds, then drops down to 3rd.
if it goes into limp mode, where only 1st, and 4th are enabled, 4th gear works totally fine.
also, now if i drive around, and it shifts down to 1st the torque converter stays locked up and wants to stall. if i manually shift down with gear selector, torque converter doesn't stay locked up........Man am i getting sick of bathing in tranny fluid.
Here is a link to the sound https://photos.app.goo.gl/o28E93MPKCEhBSg39
 

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Discussion Starter #13
well today i installed a 2nd brand new valve body with grey connector solenoid pack.
Performed quick learn

CVI Values are
OD-49
UD-53
LR-64
4C- 48-51
2C-42

it now finally goes into 4th gear, but the truck revs right up, and truck doesn't seem to accelerate very fast. im assuming because torque converter isn't locking up in 4th.
Also there was some codes thrown in 4th.
P0876
P0734
P0933
P0935
P02706

Line pressure is showing 160.9 Psi

Once i drive for a couple minutes, and transmission warms up, the torque converter stays engaged in reverse, and 1st gear drive. If i start truck, and shift into reverse or drive it wants to stall.

any ideas anyone? @TransEngineer
 

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well today i installed a 2nd brand new valve body with grey connector solenoid pack.
Performed quick learn

CVI Values are
OD-49
UD-53
LR-64
4C- 48-51
2C-42

it now finally goes into 4th gear, but the truck revs right up, and truck doesn't seem to accelerate very fast. im assuming because torque converter isn't locking up in 4th.
Also there was some codes thrown in 4th.
P0876
P0734
P0933
P0935
P02706

Line pressure is showing 160.9 Psi

Once i drive for a couple minutes, and transmission warms up, the torque converter stays engaged in reverse, and 1st gear drive. If i start truck, and shift into reverse or drive it wants to stall.

any ideas anyone? @TransEngineer
Wow, sounds like you have multiple problems. MS solenoid circuit, line pressure sensor, OD clutch slippage, TCC drag, pump whine, etc.

Offhand, I'd say pull it back out, air check the OD clutch to see if you have a bad seal there somewhere, make sure the OD clutch pack is OK, double-check the clutch clearances, and probably replace the pump and converter.

By the way, either solenoid module (white or gray) should work in your truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
is there anyway to test the pump? air tested all of the clutches again, they all sound good. i guess i will pull it back out.
 

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is there anyway to test the pump? air tested all of the clutches again, they all sound good. i guess i will pull it back out.
No, there is no simple way to test the pump. Normally, you could monitor the line pressure and see how well it can maintain the desired LP level. But because you're also having issues with the TCC function, I suspect you may have a sticky or worn TCC control valve (in the pump), and the only way to check that is to pull it out and inspect it.

If the TCC is dragging in 1st and/or reverse, and the pump is OK, then the converter is bad internally.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
does it seem weird that the TCC only drags once everything is running for a while and warmed up? once i pull the pump out, how would i go about testing the TCC Control valve? just visually, and that it has clean free movement?
 

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does it seem weird that the TCC only drags once everything is running for a while and warmed up? once i pull the pump out, how would i go about testing the TCC Control valve? just visually, and that it has clean free movement?
Yes, check the valves that they slide freely in their bores. Also check for bore wear: there should be almost NO gap between the valves and their bores (it should be like .001"). Shine a flashlight over each bore and see if you can see light around the valve anywhere.

TCC drag can be caused by loss of line pressure, so if that happens only when hot, could be the pump itself is worn and not able to keep LP up at idle. Best way to diagnose that is to simply read the line pressure at idle (using a scan tool) and see if it's stable. It should be 40 psi or higher.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
changed my pressure sensor, and did some more test driving this morning. torque converter didnt stay locked up once, and now im only getting codes P0734 Gear 4 incorrect ratio. and P0933 Hydraulic pressure sensor. when i pull it out i will concentrate on 4c clutch, and pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Line pressure at idle in park is 100-130psi
in drive with brake on 71-85
in reverse with brake on 200-220
 
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