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Discussion Starter #1
No more clinching teeth under WOT wondering if the 68 is gonna hold! I blew mine out pulling a 48' enclosed. Converter couldnt take it anymore. I priced out the aftermarket 68's and I had to be revived with 220v after I heard the prices! I have a little over $5,000 in this conversion...

Parts list:

NV5600 transmission
NV5600 shifter
Lower rubber shifter boot
Upper shifter boot
Uinta stainless shifter knob (optional)
NV transmission mount
NV transmission bracket (goes between mount and transmission)
Southbend dual disc 3250lb for a 2004 dodge (flywheel to clutch fork)
Southbend .750 hydraulics (slave and master)
Volair .580 crank spacer
2004 crossmember that was NV equipped
Rear driveshaft had to be shortened 4.250"
Front driveshaft had to be lengthened 4.250"
Clutch pedal out of a 2003-2009, they are all the same even the 1/2 tons
Clutch pedal pin and e-clips
Master cylinder plastic pin

The reason you have to use the Volair .580 crank spacer is because it spaces out the flywheel so the input shaft goes into both discs and spaces out the ring gear perfectly for the starter. This is ONLY if you use a standard NV flywheel in conjuntion with the G56/68RFE flywheel housing (they are the same)

The hole in the firewall is already there for the master, a studded plastic cover is there that needs to be removed (two 15mm nuts on the inside). The boss for the clutch pedal is already there waiting to get violated. The only cutting involved was for the shifter and the outline is already there, even the heat sheild from under the truck is pre cut. Pretty much a bolt on swap.

I did have to trace down the P/N wire which is under the TPIM. You have to cut this wire then from the TPIM run it to one side of the clutch interlock switch and ground the other side. Wire is yellow with a blue tracer, I will post a pic tomorrow.

I have two more wiring projects to go: 4WL looks for a ground off the clutch interlock switch to engage 4WL, 4WH works great. I have found the wire but have not ran it yet. And the reverse lights, I have the switch already in the tranny and waiting on a pigtail plug to get here from the dodge house.

So far I have driven the truck about 50 miles or so and is doing great! Speedo works (signal off the rear), exhaust brake works even better now and the cruise control works like it should.

I know there is more but I need to get home for dinner.
 

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Sweet. I keep threatening to ditch the 48 for an NV5600. But the auto is so fun...

I still say the 5600 is the best trans ever put in a pickup. I can't think of any other I'd rather have...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Need to throw out some thanks...

Big thanks to Peter at Southbend clutch, and the boys at H&S.

You do need a proprammer so you can write a manual file on the ECM. I have the Black Maxx and Casey walked me through the steps while I was in the truck. No need to use the SD card the boys at H&S will walk you through the steps while you sit in the driver's seat. I dont know how the XRT or Smarty will throw a manual file on the ECM, I am guessing you will have to do it over the internet.

Just got done driving the truck again and I freakin love it!!
 

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Need to throw out some thanks...

Big thanks to Peter at Southbend clutch, and the boys at H&S.

You do need a proprammer so you can write a manual file on the ECM. I have the Black Maxx and Casey walked me through the steps while I was in the truck. No need to use the SD card the boys at H&S will walk you through the steps while you sit in the driver's seat. I dont know how the XRT or Smarty will throw a manual file on the ECM, I am guessing you will have to do it over the internet.

Just got done driving the truck again and I freakin love it!!
Damn, the 6.7 and the NV5600, its official, you have made my mind up on my next truck! It will be a while but when mine gets retired to farm truck status, my new ride will be a 07-09 Dodge 5500 C&C flatbed, and the best part of all, you have satisfied my curiosity, i had been wondering what it would take to get the 5600 in there! I gotta say im jealous man, it sounds like you did a good job:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Pics of the wire you need to tap into so the truck will start. If you do not want to run this wire to the interlock switch you can just gound it close by but I chose to run it to the interlock switch because I am still getting use to the new set up plus I dont wont to chance starting in gear.

Run this wire to one side of the interlock switch thats on the master cylinder.







This is the block off plate for the master and the left overs from cutting out the shifter hole.





This pops out for the upper shifter boot. The boot pops right into place.





Shift knob...



 

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can the nv5600 really hold that much hp and trq then the 68re? Whats the max hp and trq the nv5600 can hold these days with current clutchs avail?

This is an interesting conversion and cost savings over the alternative but wondering if in the end the 5600 is stronger then a well built 68rfe (money aside).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for posting up pics of the interior of the truck with the straight NV5600 shifter in it. Looking at those pics makes me now know that there really is no need for the bend in the shifter that the G56 has. I don't know why the bend in the shifter bothers me so much but it does.

Scott
No problem. No need for the bend it clears everything fine.

What interior peices would I have to get if I had bucket seats and the center console?
Do you have the fold down cup holders?

Could you add some info on where you got all your parts from
Southbend 3250lb clutch for a NV (hyd included) - Rollin Smoke Diesel
NV5600 Transmission - Blumenthal's in OK City
.580 crank spacer - Volair
Upper and lower shift boots, column bezels and trans mount - Dodge house.
Shifter, clutch pedal, and crossmember - Local salvage yard
Shift knob - Uinta Diesel

When ordering the crank spacer make sure you tell the guys at Volair what clutch you are running (dual disc or single and brand) because the crank bolts will vary. When I got mine the bolts were to long for the dual disc set up. Stick a bolt through the flywheel and the spacer and make sure no more than .800" is sticking out.
 

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Wow, you got the pimp daddy console.

You may have to switch to what I have. The center console/middle seat is attached to both buckets in my truck. If you have a buddy that has the style i have, I would study it. I am willing to bet alot of that stuff if not all of it would interchange.

What happenned to your auto?
Toasted it with my xrt :doh:. This is my first Cummins (always had 7.3 powerstrokes) and got a little too happy with the go pedal. If I could find the correct flywheel housing (common rail to sae 2) I would consider running an eaton fso 6spd. They are a beefy trans and cheaper to rebuild than a 5600. Plus you can get a 14" dual disk from valiar (sp?) and from what I hear could possible be a better clutch than what is in a dodge. I already have an eaton fs, so all I need to do is swap out for the overdive gear and then have an almost identical overdrive ratio as the 56. If I could find the housing I needed I also have a 6.7 that I bought for a Cummins conversion that I could use for mock up and then maybe i could have the adapter made for the transfer case where i wouldn't have to shorten or lengthen driveshafts. That way if I wanted to go back to the auto for some reason it would be an easy swap back.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Toasted it with my xrt :doh:. This is my first Cummins (always had 7.3 powerstrokes) and got a little too happy with the go pedal. If I could find the correct flywheel housing (common rail to sae 2) I would consider running an eaton fso 6spd. They are a beefy trans and cheaper to rebuild than a 5600. Plus you can get a 14" dual disk from valiar (sp?) and from what I hear could possible be a better clutch than what is in a dodge. I already have an eaton fs, so all I need to do is swap out for the overdive gear and then have an almost identical overdrive ratio as the 56. If I could find the housing I needed I also have a 6.7 that I bought for a Cummins conversion that I could use for mock up and then maybe i could have the adapter made for the transfer case where i wouldn't have to shorten or lengthen driveshafts. That way if I wanted to go back to the auto for some reason it would be an easy swap back.
How much are the eaton 6 spds? I have several friends that are putting 800+ rwhp through these nv5600 and livin! One in particular has over 400,000miles on his factory nv5600. If you plan on making sick power that eaton sounds like the route.
 

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How much are the eaton 6 spds? I have several friends that are putting 800+ rwhp through these nv5600 and livin! One in particular has over 400,000miles on his factory nv5600. If you plan on making sick power that eaton sounds like the route.
Here is some information to look into: these transmissions are from medium duty trucks.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/41978-nv5600-fso6406a-6-speed-fuller.html

NV5600 CONVERSION


I just haven't been able to find the correct flywheel housing for a common rail, as most applications use the rear mounted gear train with a rear mounted Cp3 pump. The housings for a 12v or 24v can be found pretty easily but the common rail uses an o-ring to seal off the cam tunnel that the others don't. There might be other differences in the housing that I don't know about as well.
 

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did you u ever get your reverse lights or the 4wd lights to work correct? i just swaped a g56 into my truck and those are the two problems i am still working on. i got lucky and have the wire harneses out of the donor truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here is a PM I sent a couple of days ago.

Matter of fact I hunted down the reverse lights wire last night. You will have to buy a pigtail from the dodge house and wire a keyed on 12v to one side of the reverse switch on the tranny and wire the other side to the white wire with a light green tracer that is on the frame rail in front of the fuel tank. I am going to see if I can find that same wire in the old TCM plug later today, if I can locate it there it will be easier to hard wire it up. I will be posting an update soon.

As for the 4WD goes, 4WD high works but 4WD low doesnt right now. I am still working on it. You have to press in the clutch pedal on a factory equipped manual truck with the switch turned to 4WD low for low range to engage. So a module is looking for a ground from the clutch switch to engage low range. As soon as I figure it out I will be posting up the information.
 

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After watching that video...I have made up my mind...when the 68RFE toast, I am swapping.

NightTrain-- Do you have any pictures of the interior with the swap? I have the flip down cupholder, and I am trying to figure out what all I am going to need to make this thing look factory when its done...

I'm probably going to start gathering parts here in the next month, so if anyone can help me out through this it would be awesome...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
any updates on 4-low?
After reading this thread and having trouble with my 68 Im considering this swap.
I'm still working on the low range. I do have the reverse lights wired up now. You can find the white wire with a light green tracer in the factory harness right by the tranny crossmember meets the frame on the driver side. This wire actually goes to the IPC and not the TCM.

I will be at my local dodge house tomorrow morning. I get do my own alignments there because every alignment tech I've ran into around here either sucks or dont give a sh!t! After I align my truck I'm gonna start the dig again on getting low range figured out using dealership computers!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
After watching that video...I have made up my mind...when the 68RFE toast, I am swapping.

NightTrain-- Do you have any pictures of the interior with the swap? I have the flip down cupholder, and I am trying to figure out what all I am going to need to make this thing look factory when its done...

I'm probably going to start gathering parts here in the next month, so if anyone can help me out through this it would be awesome...
I will be tearing into my shifter again soon because I thought I lost the boot that snaps around the shifter and today when I installed my new sway bar end links I found the boot hiding under my toolbox! Haha. So yea no problem on snapping a few pics for ya.
 

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Hoping to wake this thread back up, and figure out a adapter plate question. I've been reading threads for hours and I cannot find the answer. I have a 08 that I'm swapping out the 68RFE for a NV5600. Now on mine I went with an adapter plate off of an 05 that was suppose to be NV5600 equipped and a SB Triple Disc. Seeing how I went with the older adapter plate the flywheel is not spaced out. All went well until I stabbed the trans. The input collar on the spline is hitting the clutch. Does anyone have any experience with this? Pressure was torqued down evenly, then I started doubting myself and tore everything back apart. Checked the indexing of al of the clutches, made sure everything was in the correct order and it was. Then I started second guessing that the adapter could have been wrong after all, maybe out of an auto or something so I started digging on here. I found a number on my adapter plate. Its 3965233. Searched it but it only came up with some adapter plates on ebay that doesn't have much information. I then searched for the part on Mopar Parts Giant and it came up with 5086761AB. I found on another thread that a guy swapped a 48RE with a NV5600 and he said he used the same adapter plate that measured 2 1/4" thick so I went and measured mine it was 2 1/4 also. I'm at a loss of what could be going on.

Also after the amount of time I've been searching all of this, I see there is a lot of confusion on the adapter plates, and which ones work on what so I'd like to compile a list with all the various adapter plates, part numbers and thicknesses that I can share on here and with others. I know It would help me so I think there's others it could help too.

I kept track of all of the part numbers I needed to do this swap so I can post them as well. Thanks guys!
 
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